KBS Coatings 53000 Auto Fuel Tank Sealer Kit, Seals Up to 25 Gallon Tank

My gas tank was for a 1978 International Scout II that had been sitting for a decade when I got it. The tank was nasty and had some pinholes. First I drained the tank, cleaned it with degreaser and an old chain, then de-rusted it with electrolysis. There are some videos on youtube to show how its done. Then I broke out this sealant kit and cleaned it again. The gloves that come with this kit are worthless. Get some good, thick rubber or kitchen cleaning gloves for this project. Also, get a couple walmart or bread bags to put over your shoes when using the sealer. I spilled it on my feet and I'm waiting for it to wear off. The cleaner is a powerful degreaser so I drained it and saved it to clean the engine with later. I followed the instructions precisely, except I missed the statement to NOT allow the Blast primer to dry in the tank. I did save the primer when I drained the tank, so the next day I re-Blasted it again, then allowed it to dry. I used JB Weld on the 5 pinholes, which were really just pinholes before adding the sealant. The instructions say not to let it sit in the tank for greater than 30 minutes, but if you are in a high humidity area like I am, it really should sit in the tank for much longer. You have to keep rolling the tank to make sure it is fully coated and does not get too thick in one area. I made sure the seam and the bottom of the tank were well coated before pouring it out into a bucket. I then hung the tank and painted the outside of it with a chip brush. I also cleaned, primed and sealed the metal fuel filler tube from the truck. There were a couple places on the outside where I got it too thick and it bubbled up and separated from the tank after it dried. I can see where that would be a problem, so make sure you do not let it set too thickly on the inside. Gotta keep rolling it every 5 minutes until it is dried. I did it inside my garage with the fan blowing, you have to have ventilation for this project. Plan on waiting 4 days to put fuel in it. I let it dry, then filled it with water and did a pressure test, it passed sat. Let it dry again and installed the tank. I like this option much better than spending over $350 for a new aftermarket plastic tank.

This is great stuff I put it in a gas tank out of 1925 Chevrolet Superior k And work like a champ Is exactly what I wanted it to Little hard to work with But it did what it was supposed to do

Follow instructions and it works great, sealed leaking fuel tank on tractor.

I used this on my Farmall M gas tank and it worked great. I was plagued with fuel issues for years and once I sealed the tank there has been no more problems. It’s a lengthy process but well worth it and now I use it on every rusty tank I have.

I followed instructions as directed and was very happy with the results. It does take time and patience and continued turning of tank to avoid puddling of sealant for up to approx. 3 hours after the initial 30 minutes. Used grease on some of the threads and greased other fittings before installing fitting into tank and then removed after several hours w/o issues. I was disappointed that I had more flash rust than expected after using the rust blast but did I just let it draing the first time. I applied rust blast a second time and used the blower on a shop vac immediately which helped reduce the amount of flash rust. I used this on an 18 gallon gas tank with baffles and numerous pin holes that were soldered prior to applying the sealant. Nice coating on inside of tank with periodic turning (5-10 min) after the initial hour. I recommend continued turning because initial coverage appeared thin but as it cures the uncured sealant that puddles over time adheres more readily. Used some left over sealer on rusty areas on the outside of tank and adheres very well. 4 stars due to extensive work due to slow cure time and have not put into operation yet but did not leak with a trial of water.

2006 f550 steel tank renewal. Only had light rust so wire brushed inside and out the had plenty in this kit to seal it. Process takes a few days but results were great.

Worked well

My 1965 Crestliner has a custom fabricated bow mounted 20 gallon fuel tank, which would be tough to find a replacement for. It was full of rust and scale when I first got it, even after removing it and flushing it out. I heard good things about the KBS system, so I figured I'd give it a try. I electrolyzed the tank for 4 days (lots of information on this process online). I then dumped in a container of BBs, and rotated it around for a few hours. I cleaned it out carefully, dried it, and followed the instructions that came with the KBS kit. The results were better than I had hoped for. Not only do my fuel filters stay clean now, but it actually sealed up a few pinholes than became apparent during the process. Sweet! Make sure you follow their instructions TO THE LETTER, and plan out each step carefully. Get the tank as clean and rust-free as possible BEFORE you start. And once you dump that sealer in the tank, it sets up quickly, so be prepared. This will be my go-to for rusty tanks in the future. I'm very pleased.

Every steel tank should have that coating on as a preventive for damaging rust.

Great product.