BOSCH00628334 Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (Replaces 628334) Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part

I damaged mine after reinstalling once my new kitchen cabinets and countertops where installed. The replacement is an exact replacement, works perfectly with zero leaks or issues.

I had the fated E15 code on a Bosch Dishwasher model Bosch SHP65T55UC/02. I swapped the part out without properly diagnosing the root cause. It turns out that this was not the cause of my leak. However, I can definitively confirm that this replacement part works without a hitch. It's only been in for a week but no issues with it.Now the real leak was elsewhere I and I did find it eventually. Word to the wise, please properly diagnose your issue before throwing parts at it. Now, this was a cheap part and as a preventative measure not the end of the world, since this is a wear part after all, but nevertheless, I would have saved a bit of money and done a better diagnosis.In the end it was the circulation pump shaft seal that was leaking for me so I'm going to wind up with a much more expensive repair. I intend to keep this dishwasher running forever if I had my druthers. So in the end if there is a wear part I will replace it. So all in all, not a waste, it was a simple fix, and got me acclimated to the innards of the dishwasher and gave me the confidence to move forward with the rest of the rebuild.

An E15 error code would have helped! Read on…This item was purchased to replace the water inlet valve on my Bosch SHE53TF5UC/07 dishwasher. The dishwasher shut down and locked out due to the float switch closing. The base at the bottom of this dishwasher is designed to catch and detect water from plumbing leaks within the machine. The valve had developed a very slight “weep” which allowed just enough water to pool in the base to cause the float switch to close.Allegedly, this model is supposed to display a E15 error code when the float switch closes. However, the way the problem presented itself was that the control panel died (no illumination, and unresponsive) and the machine started making a cyclic running noise which sounded like the machine was continuously trying to drain (same sound as at the end of a wash cycle). The cyclic running noise only subsided after power was disconnected.Due to the absence of an error code, the control module became the suspected part. Initially, the dishwasher was pulled from the cabinet and laid over on its side. The water that was in the base did run onto the floor, but there was so little of it that it was believed to have been the water that normally sits in the sump, so it was not associated with any potential issues.A new control module was installed and the dishwasher appeared to have been fixed. However, after about two days of operation, the initial issue presented itself again. And again, in the absence of an error code, the module was again suspected.Because it seemed odd that a new module would fail so quickly, and given that the peripheral components within the system do not seem capable of causing the module to fail given that power goes into and is distributed by the module, an actual Bosh engineer was consulted.The Bosh engineer asserted that the most likely culprit was a “stuck float switch,” though he could not speculate as to why this would happen. However, it did assert that the machine “should give an E15 error code” when the float switch closes.Upon reinspection, I did find water in the base. Just enough to float the small Styrofoam disk high enough to close the float switch. After drying this water from the base, the machine did power up and appear fine. Unfortunately, there as no obvious source of the water. So, I ran the machine with it pulled out from the counter while I continuously peered into the base with a flashlight.After about ten minutes, I saw it. A small drop of water started to form on the inlet valve and then drip into the base. It was a very minor leak, but it was ultimately the cause of the problem. After replacing the valve, the machine seems to be working perfectly and water is no longer collecting in the base.My point is that the Bosh SHE53TF5UC/07 does not appear to give the E15 error code that would have helped with diagnosing this issue. I’ve included a photo to the valve that I removed. While it was not obvious while it was installed, it appears that the solenoid is starting to come loose of the valve housing.I hope this information helps someone.

👍🏼 as described

This fixed the leak trouble code, and the actual leak, of course. It's evidently a very common problem. After a few months it's had no issues.The repair was pretty straightforward. Pro tip: After pulling the dishwasher out, you can lift the flap of insulation on the left side of the machine and reach in. It's a bit tight, but totally doable if you're even just a little handy.Beforehand, I tried properly diagnosing the leak, but it was tedious and also required pulling the dishwasher and watching it while running, trying to peer in from the front, or using an endoscope. In the end, I "fired the parts cannon" and just ordered the part. It was the solution.

Perfect fit, solved our issue with a leak in the original unit. No issues with this replacement part over the past couple months. Would recommend.

Fake part, its not the correct flow for the Bosch dishwasher. There's a whole reddit on this. I had to return this and end up going to Bosch for replacement

Previously tried a "compatible with Bosch dishwasher genuine OEM part" that did *not* work -- let water in too fast. Replaced it with this one to clear E17 fault. Not much on the packaging to indicate it's origin, but it did the trick.In the photos, this is the one on the right. Fake one on the left. (Too bad I threw away the failed original, so no comparison pic with that one.)