Fiskars 9" Brush Axe with Safety Sheath - Fixed Handle -Curved Blade Branch Chopping Axe - Yard and Garden Tools - Black/Orange

I really wasn't sure that I would like this but I had seen so many people using them and saying that they are better than a machete. So I finally broke down and decided to get one and I figured seeing as it's a Fiskars product I could easily return if I didn't like it. It turns out that I really like the Billhook and it works great in areas like South Florida where there are nothing but Palmettos, Vines and small scraggly little plants that are a pain. This helps when clearing paths to be able to get to the hunting trails and not make any noise when you're getting out to actually hunt. I also found this very useful for clearing out overgrown Palmetto's to be able to get to the root system and dig that out. Often the head of the Palmetto is so large and it makes it very difficult to dig out a palmetto bush but with the ease of just grabbing the palm fronds, hooking them and pulling they pop off with ease. Then I get to have the fun of digging up the base of the plant. They are a beast to get out of the ground.The biggest benefit though has been with getting rid of vines. Having many vines that love to try to take over my trees on the property, I am now able to simply hook onto the lowest portion of the vine, give a yank and it takes them a lot longer to grow back when you take them off at ground level. There is no more need to sit there and swing a machete when I can just hook the Vine and give a tug. And for the slightly larger stuff to decent-sized branches flip it over and use the saw part or the blade.The handle even though it is a hard plastic for the majority of it it is actually fairly comfortable. I wouldn't mind some extra rubber to make it a little bit easier when hitting harder stuff. But for the most part it's really not an issue because I find myself hooking and pulling on whatever needs to be cut the majority of the time. This really is a "jungle" friendly tool for Tropical Forest / Woodlands, it just makes short work of the little stuff that often gets in the way of your path in the woods. Give a path a couple of seasons and it's worked hard at taking back the forest.Again this really is a better tool than your typical machete especially if you are dealing with thin resilient materials that tend to just be difficult with a machete. Far less swinging involved and more just hooking what you need to cut and giving a light pull, done.

Came as described. I’ve always had good luck with there products

2015: Great product to replace my Gerber (discontinued). Put an edge on it when you get it and easily cut through 2-inch hard woods in a single pass.2020: Just threw another two in my cart, as the 2nd of the two I bought in 2015 was stolen. Guess that’s the best-said review Fiskars can get! Lol. Seriously, I swear by these and have influenced at least 10 people to get their own after seeing mine work. It’s a great tool if used correctly, maintained and just slightly modified as soon as you get it.I’ve been the occasional user; suit by day, land clearer/tree feller/landscaper by night (side hustle). It’s a simple and relatively safe (you are wielding a large, sharp blade) tool that works better than any other long blade (billhooks, machetes, parangs, etc.) or small (12-14”) hatchet I’ve found. It won’t blister fresh hands, it won’t wear out your shoulder during a hardcore hour or two of work, and the blunt hook tip saves your cutting edge (and shins!) from serious damage/injury.Now I’m full-time landscaping; using it to cut hedge roots (e.g. Holly), slice off saplings and young trees at ground level, clear overgrown lots of...everything, clearing pipeline right-of-way paths ahead of my gas trimmer/brush cutter team, and countless hours breaking down branches and limbs for efficient disposal (dump trailer space saver, without ruining saw chains). It’s also faster than a saw for breaking down limbs for disposal, a point I proved to my business partner and his MS250....lol. Mine have even been known to dig a hole or two for flowerbed planting too... You can chop into/on the ground/concrete without fouling because of the hook tip, use the spine to scrape or precision hammering, top to dig/clear dirt to expose roots, it takes Pro use well. It’s also easy to go 3-4 hours straight without “pacing” before my hands begin to let it slip and reconstructed shoulder begins to ache. I’ve heard (seemingly) hundreds of times, “You’re wearing yourself out, are you tired?”...until they get one and learn how to use it.The important stuff: AS SOON AS I GET IT: (1) I use a Dremel to checker (1/2”) or spiral the handle, (2) tie up a snug wrist wrap/lanyard using 550 cord, and (3) continue what the factory began by sharpening it to a razor edge. Five of the eight months of my season are 100+-degree/90%+ humidity days - when pouring sweat begins at 7am, the extra grip and safety (wrist wrap) helps. Axes are blunt force tools, this is not - it is a slicing tool that requires a fine edge (technically a garden/grass cutting blade, though the original/Japanese were/are thinner and lighter). PROPER USE: DO NOT CHOP OR HACK. This isn’t a chopping tool, you’ll get nowhere and blame the tool. Instead, whether it be a single swipe through a 3” red oak or getting through a 30” log, imagine yourself as Hannibal Lector using a straight razor to escape; it’s more of a swipe. A flick of the wrist. A whip of the arm. Slice THROUGH the wood/brush/grass, do not strike AT it - the way a swordsman uses a katana slices through a bamboo bundle (if using a chopping motion/technique that same sword will take 5-7 strikes to sever). Seriously, put on some classical and walk through the woods with that Hannibal Lecture vibe going....seriously, it works. Lol. Last guy to get one I made him watch the scene on YouTube, and he finally got it. MAINTENANCE: The coating wears off pretty quickly, so the drag will increase. I polish my edge/remove burrs before every’ish use. For the average user, I’d say after every hard use cutting woody material or when you see burrs or roll over. It’s pretty soft and easy to sharpen. I’ve used those little $5 pull through sharpeners, traditional wet/dry stones, the yellow-handled diamond-coated sharpener you see at ______ (Big Store), my REAL knife sharpening set, as well as a concrete curb once...just about anything works. My go-to is my axe puck since it’s always closest. Hope it helps!