Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance Paperback – Audiobook, February 17, 2006

Meets expectations

As someone who feels he understands movement (previously a professional ballet dancer), and whose brain likes breaking ideas and concepts down into their component parts/works algorithmically and mathematically/wants to understand the relationship between certain actions and their effect on one's equilibrium, this book is an incredible asset. I am a relatively new climber, and while I appreciate the tips and lessons my friends have share with me, few have been able to explain to me the "why" underlying certain moves or actions -- they are able to show me what they do, but the synthesis of those actions within my own body is awkward since no two bodies are exactly alike; accordingly, what works for one, may not quite work for another. This book on the other hand, provides me not only the nomenclature, but also the building blocks and conceptual break down I was so very much looking for. It is no quick-study guide to immediate improvements in one's climbing, but what it did for me is it has given me the tools and mental thought processes/concepts needed, that over time I will be able to work into my own movements. The DVD is relatively short, but gives clear depictions of the drills you can try at your own climbing gym. Definitely recommend this book to climbers - beginner or advanced - that want to more thoroughly understand movement/climbing concepts.

Self-Coached climber gives you great tools to get your climbing under your control. It debunks myths, gives you actual science behind why certain techniques for training work while others don't, and helps you create a detailed training plan.The only reason I don't give the product 5 stars is that I got the kindle version, which doesn't come with the DVD (and thus, I miss out on some of the contect). I knew that'd be the case, of course, but it is something that the physical book has over the e-reader version. Not enough for me to bother ordering the hardcopy, but might matter to someone else.

I'm a relatively new climber, climbing for almost a year and currently working V2 and 10b. I received this book a little under a week ago and have already made my way through it once. It has made me consciously aware of many things that I was sensing intuitively at times, but had trouble recreating consistently because I wasn't aware of the underlying dynamics going on. It also exposed to me several concepts that I haven't 'felt' yet.It's full of great training practices, particularly for movement, and as such is particularly helpful for a beginning climber like myself. I'm sure that any climber though could benefit from honing technique and control over the concepts explored in this book.The training schedules outlined in the back are rather intense for anyone with a 9-5. I tend to climb 3 to 4 times a week for a couple of hours, but the books recommends up to 7 hours in one performance day in a week, with training days lasting up to 5 hours. Regardless, they provide a great basic structure to work from. Additionally, a great deal of information is outlined on the specifics of aerobic and anaerobic activity and how to increase both.In short, I heard this book was a must-have and I emphatically agree. I am very happy that I purchased it and I am confident it will help me push my climbing to the next level.

This is the only book of its kind I can find. Its a training manual and climbing technique tutorial all in one. There is a lot in this book about technique and how to train body movement and balance specific to climbing. I bought another highly touted training manual before I bought this one, and it had about 5 pages on actual exercises. The rest was just about exercise physiology and how to program and sequence workouts for different goals, assuming you already had your own list of exercises. This book does that but then actually goes into the specifics about what moves and positions to work on and how. There are chapters such as Balance, Establishing a Good Base of Support, Turning and Flagging, and Controlling Force: Movement Initiation and Movement Centers. And there are tons of clear color photos and drawings. I highly recommend this book. Its perfect for a serious beginner, but if you are an experienced climber I think there is still a lot on movement that could up your game.

"The Self-Coached Climber" is an excellent training resource for climbers at just about any level. I bought the book recently and before even finishing reading it, I started seeing improvements in my technique from working on the exercises.In contrast to other books like "How to Climb 5.12," SCC is highly detailed and specific in its approach to improving fundamentals like balance, center of gravity and movement skills. The book provides excellent exercises for particular skills, and these are illustrated with abundant photos and/or drawings that show how the exercise should be done. Additionally, videos on the accompanying DVD can clarify any confusion with the exercises. Finally, a detailed training plan is presented for developing the stamina, strength and technique needed to move up in the climbing grades.I think it's worth noting that while this is billed as a "self-coached" training book, some of the exercises can't be done without a partner. In fact, working with an equally-motivated partner through the course of the book would probably be the ideal approach.I believe "The Self-Coached Climber" is a perfect companion piece to Arno Ilgner's mental training book "The Rock Warrior's Way" for anyone wanting to become a better and more confident climber.