Upgraded Stainless Steel Parking Brake Cable Clip Retainer with Rubber Tubes Compatible with BMW 1 Series F20/F21, 2 Series F22/F23, 3 Series F30/F31, 4 Series F32/F33/F36 Replace#: 34406854898

I'm going to give you some priceless advice here.- Don't start late in the day- Get good sleep before you tackle this.- Be at one with the world. Settle disputes FIRST before starting work.- Have a coffee- If it's raining, too cold, too hot, too humid... just... wait for another day. It's been broken this long, what's another few days?This isn't a "hard" job by any means. If you're shopping for this part, you already know what you're doing. You've worked on this car plenty. You're not afraid to get under there and do the needful. You know this car in and out, it's precious to you. You're already quite capable of doing this mechanically. However, what is a simple (remove nut, replace part, replace nut) task will take longer than you thought, and you will swear A LOT. Make sure small children are either at a safe distance, or have already been exposed to inappropriate language. Don't make this the day they learn THAT word. Don't get me wrong, it's SO SIMPLE... but you're going to drop the nut a LOT. You're gonna wonder why things won't fit. But it's the space / access that's the big challenge.My car: a 2016 BMW 228 xDrive.What I removed to do this:- four heatshield nutsWhat I refused to remove to do this:- cross brace- exhaust hangers- subframe- fuel tankSo, it can be done. You'll need a 10mm socket / wrench for the heat shield nuts, and a 13mm wrench for the nut that holds this (and the old) bracket. That's it.One thing... this kit comes with some hose pads. Use those.... and a washer to go over the original stud. Throw that washer away from you, as far as you can.Don't even think about it. As you'll find out, thread depth is the name of the game here and you don't want to add anything that makes it more challenging to get the first bite of that nut on the stud. Take the easy path, don't be a hero.I reversed up my ramps so the back end was in the air, did not need the whole car up, however a lift would make this a lot easier.Remove the heat shield nuts that make sense to get access to this. Nothing complex there.Now, onto the clip... removal of the 13mm nut is still awkward, but it's a dress rehearsal. It'll let you know that YES it is possible to get your wrench in there. YES it is possible to turn it enough with enough tiny strokes that you can do this.The rest... you know what to do. Slide those hose pads on there and get them butted up against the original (probably broken) clips. Then... start the finger acrobatics. The key will be PUSHING this new piece HARD enough to where you have enough of the original stud sticking out that you can get the nut back onto... all you need here is that ONE OR TWO bites from the thread to hold the nut on. Don't be afraid to take a break. Have another coffee, kiss your wife, go for a walk. YOU GOT THIS. Take it slow, it will happen. At some point, things will slide into place, you'll have got that bracket on there enough to where now you can get the nut on that stupid stud.After a few tries, and once that nut starts to bite down on the stud, all you have left is to turn that nut. With as little room as you have, it's gonna take about 80x 1/16 turns of that nut that it'll finally tighten to your satisfaction.I told you you could do this, champ!!! YOU ARE AMAZING.No more hideous noise, and I think this particular item from amazon (no, it's not that super fancy version you saw online for $200, but this one works JUST FINE damn it) is strong enough and designed well enough to never need replacement again.This product worked perfectly. I would NEVER BUY IT AGAIN (and that's a good thing!) because I won't have to.

I don't typically write reviews, but this product was much more than I could have ever anticipated. I drive a 2015 BMW 320i as my daily commuter car. The "scratching" noise when turning corners and accellerating drove me nuts! After researching and narrowing the issue down to a CHEAP plastic part I was about to buy the expensive aftermarket brand for $150 to $200. Then i found this and thought id give it a try. Man was i excited after install! First, it arrived as expected and packaging was defitely acceptable. The ease of installation was much better than I thought. After jacking and safely supporting the car, it was installed in only 35 minutes. I was able to lower the exaust, remove the cross member and lower the heat shield with only a dozen or so fasteners. Then i removed the 13mm nut with a ratheting wrench and installed the rubber cable protecters and new clip over the broken one in no time. Every thing done safely and securely in 35 minutes! I took the car for a test drive and my smile came back! This clip is heavy duty and took away all the headaches from the issue. No more scratching noise! GREAT product, seller, and results! This customer is more than satisfied. Im ecstatic!!! Thank you!RICk

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Great fix for the squealing cable issue. Watch the videos and listen to them. This is hard to install if you have the original on. It’s possible but takes a while to catch on a thread. I ended up removing the original clip and using only this with an extra washer.

Like on e of the other reviewers stated, you dont need the included washer. The OEM nut has a wide attached washer already. The width of that washer gets stuck between the tub holders on this part which adds to the difficulty in getting it tho thread back onto the stud.I used a dremel to narrow that nut/washer a few mm on opposing sides, that made it fit much easier.I laid under the rear of my 440i (using jack stands) and had my face directly under the rear diff. I lowered the heat shield just a bit and was able to get both of my hands up in there, just enough for fingers to do the work. A 13mm flat ratcheting wrench did the rest. Overall, with trimming the nut/washer, install took about 30min. Definitely sturdy now

Much cheaper alternative but just as effective as the $100+ one. Was a PITA to install but it fixed the problem. No more noises even when WOT.

It works, but it was a hassle to make it work. As others said, you really need to push very hard to get the nut to bite onto the thread. But I had another problem. The part doesn't seem to fit with the original nut and washer. Maybe that was known because a washer was included with mine, but not a nut. That was a bit confusing. I machined down the edge of the captive washer and it finally fit after pressing hard on it. Probably most telling is that the product images are photoshopped from a product of a similar design but with added alignment tabs.Make sure the padding is not sticking out of the far end and over the OEM clip, it could make it a lot more difficult. I really wish some padding was glued onto the inside of the part to be a bit more of a professional finish, this probably would have saved me the time wrestling with it. A bit of single side adhesive foam tape could probably make it fit much better and reduce the pressure required to fit it with the oversized foam provided.This part is probably just as durable as the one that is 10x more expensive, so its probably worth the hassle to save $100 as long as you have a file, a grinder, or a spare m8 nut.