Small Pump With Level Sensor,5 FT Drain Lift,Large Volume,110V Automatic Submersible Water Pump Mini HAVC Condensate Pump For Dehumidifier,Air Conditioner, Ice Maker, Furnace,Air Cooler,PM02

Used it all winter to pump condensate from a heat-pump portable air conditioner to a one gallon jug. Worked as expected. Not silent but makes just enough noise to remind me to check that gallon jug. (Hint: It's quiet enough that the jug has a water detection alarm on it.)My transfer pan is plastic and I used a heat gun to create a recess for the pump to sit in to allow it to evacuate even more water.

Works well... not powerful but works great as a small sump pump. Would not trust for a condensate pump as the vertical lift is limited to about 5'.

I’ve purchased two of these pumps, and unfortunately, both stopped working after just a couple of months. I used them in the reservoir of my humidifier to empty the tank. In both cases, the issue appears to stem from the impeller no longer responding to the magnetic force needed to produce rotation. Strangely, the unit seems to function when tested outside of water, but fails under normal operating conditions in water. This suggests a quality issue—specifically, that the pump can’t handle sustained use under load over time.

The sensor does what it is supposed to do and starts the pump when the water level is about half way up the pump sides. The problem is (at least on mine) there is a vent hole in the top of the pump--apparently to allow rising water level to push the air out of the pump impeller so it will prime and pump. But the pump also sucks air down thru the vent hole as soon as it starts pumping. So it is pumping both air and water which reduces the volume of water pumped and reduces the height the pump will pump. If you put your finger over the hole while pumping, the air in the line goes away, the volume increases and the the pumping height goes up. Also when the pump is fully submerged the vent hole would be covered and it would not suck air, but since the sensor is below the top of the pump, the water level will always drop below the top vent and it will end up sucking air. It needs a check valve that will close the vent when the pump starts to suck. I'm wondering if I can put a little flap of thin rubber over the hole that will allow the air to vent when the water rises but close when the pump starts pumping water. The pump has possibilities but it was like they quit working on the design before it was finished. The instructions if I unterstand the meaning says the outlet needs to be higher than the pump to keep it primed but it doesn't seem to make any difference whether it's higher or lower than the pump. Maybe the water draining back into the pump is supposed to raise the water level enough in the reservoir to keep the pump impeller covered? Doesn't matter as long as the top vent is open it still sucks in air. The pump as designed is self defeating. Also further investigation reveals the pump leaks substantial water out at the seam between the middle and lower sections

I've got an AC unit in an attic space with a drip pan underneath it. When it's very hot and humid in our area, the AC unit starts dripping from a place where the internal condensation catch pan doesn't catch the water and water goes into the drip pan. The pan starts to fill up and, if the level sensor fails and the pan overflows, water comes through our ceiling.I put one of these little pumps in the pan and it's fantastic! If the pan starts to fill, the pump sees it and pumps the water down to just 1/4" of depth. It works just fine in our 100+ degree attic space and held up all summer.It's inexpensive enough that I keep a spare pump handy.

I have a patio drain that is clogged downstream and drains very slowly. This pump fits perfectly down the 3inch drain pipe so that it can pump rainwater out. It isn’t fast, but it clears standing water after a rain within 24 hours and then automatically shuts off. Not a permanent solution, but works for now.Others complained that the output tubing gets crimped in shipping. Running some warm water for a couple minutes fixes that. If you need more length just buy some clear 5/16th tubing on Amazon.Also, after the pump shuts off the backflow of water in the tubing may cause the water level to rise sufficiently to cause the pump to restart. This is easily fixed by adding a 5/16 inch one-way check valve to the output to prevent the backflow. Just be sure the backflow valve does not require a lot of pressure to open. Cheap one-piece plastic ones create too much back pressure. I went with a metal one that could be disassembled so that the valve spring tension could be reduced.

I've never seen a smaller pump.. I'm keeping it in spite of being so small because of the water level detection which will save the pump from over heating. I now wish I had bought the medium sized one. I probably ordered the small one by mistake. The next larger pumps SO much more GPH for the extra $2.

The media could not be loaded. I was looking for a solution for to clear a driveway trench drain whose exit pipe has became clogged from tree roots and was frequently filling up as the fall rains began. With about 5" depth and 5" of width underneath the drain, I was able to wire this pump in from metal grate on top. Whenever the water level reaches about 3" the sump fires up and quickly clears out the water through the flexible silicone hose connected to a larger water pipe. It was a novel solution to keep the drain clear that was far less expenses that a $1300 high pressure rotor auger to try to clear the entire line nearly annually.