J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan - 25 ml

Great product! Have used JB Weld products for decades and they are always reliable. This plastic weld did not disappoint. Used it to repair a small post that holds a side cover on a motorcycle. Obviously buying a new one would have cost a lot of money. This made it like new for a few bucks. And there is plenty left over for future jobs.Easy to mix and apply. I put it on a little thick for the small area and it took more time to cure. Once it did, the piece is as strong as original.Only caution is on first use, squeeze out the first bit and discard. See photo. Then squeeze the portion for your job. The first portion will not provide a good 50/50 mix.JB Weld has never failed to perform for me.

The Tan J-B Weld PlasticBonder worked very well for me. I had already used the black PlasticBonder to repair my front bumper and my radiator shutter assembly on my car, and it worked perfectly for those repairs. So, when I acquired a plastic shed with the back corners broken out, I found and purchased this tan PlasticBonder to repair it. This tan PlasticBonder squirted out of the tubes perfectly, was easy to mix, and easy to apply. Cure time was fast, I literally held the two pieces in place by hand until it cured sufficiently to hold the two pieces together, although I waited an hour between applications. It has already been two years since I used the black PlasticBonder, so my memory may be out of calibration, but this tan PlasticBonder seemed a little thinner than the black PlasticBonder. However, it was not too thin; it applied very well on the vertical surfaces, and only tended to run a bit; it was still very easy to apply. As I said, it cured rapidly, but not so rapidly that I had to rush to apply the whole tube. So, I was able to repair a $400 plastic shed which I was given for free, and the color even matched the color of the shed. The shed is very strong now, probably even stronger than it was when new. This Tan J-B Weld PlasticBonder worked very well for me. I will not hesitate to use it again.

This JB Weld Plastic Bonder is amazing stuff. Got it to fix my boyfriend's work van interior panels that had multiple cracks and chips on the edges. And this stuff worked amazing! It's so easy to mix because the applicator dispenses the precise ratio at the same time. Just mix mix mix and apply. It hardens and attaches the parts beautifully. You can't even see where the cracks were and it formed and filled in the chips perfectly. I am really impressed with this product . I highly recommend. You will not be disappointed.

I bought this to repair a door shelf bin in my refrigerator that would have cost $50 to replace. The shelf base separated from the trim around the top. It needed to be a strong repair as that bin is packed full of condiments in glass jars. It worked beautifully and is still holding strong weeks later. The only reason I dropped off a star is that when I very carefully pulled off the stopper on the end, one part of the glue started dripping out. Also it was difficult to get just a small amount of the two parts of the glue out.I had not noticed in the description that it was supposed to be tan, but it dried clear, which is what I wanted anyway.

This is my current favorite epoxy for plastic. Some application tips (my family has some background with structural adhesives, forgive me if I geek out).If you are using this for a structural repair (i.e., plastic piece broke because it was under stress, it will be under stress again, and you want to make a repair stronger than the original piece):* Test fit the broken pieces together before you start. (If the pieces will move in use [ex. laptop hinges], make sure that any built-up areas of your repair will not interfere with the operation.)* If you are able to reinforce the plastic joint with a piece of metal, do that - this epoxy makes an excellent bond to metal. (You could use a short section of wire coat hanger bent to fit, for example, or a strip of aluminum cut from a beverage can.) In many cases the combination of plastic + reinforcing metal + epoxy will make a lifetime repair. Bridge 'across' the break (highest-stress area) with the metal, and bend the ends of the reinforcing piece so they are physically 'trapped' by the cured adhesive. (Think of the little ribs on rebar which provide a physical bond to reinforced concrete.)* Clean the plastic parts and any reinforcement pieces using 91% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) on a clean cotton swab and let them dry thoroughly. Surface preparation is *extremely* important with any epoxy. After cleaning, do not touch the bonding surfaces with your bare hands.* Roughen the plastic bonding surfaces ("key" the surface) using sandpaper, a small file, or an emery board (or you could even scratch small grooves into the plastic with a scalpel or knife blade). Think of a climber scaling a smooth rock face - you want to give the adhesive some 'handholds' at the microscopic level - something to physically grab onto. Clean the parts again if appropriate.* Mix the two parts of the epoxy in a 50/50 ratio. I use a piece of cardboard cut from a box as a mixing board. If the plunger gives you more of one part, discard the extra - get equal size extrusions of both parts lying next to each other on the mixing board. (If you try to mix a tiny amount, it is easier to mess up the ratios - go ahead and lay down a minimum 1-inch strip for example.)* Mix the two parts *thoroughly*. This includes dragging your mixing stick against the mixing board, because it will have a big glob of one or the other parts on it. Look for a uniform color before applying the mixed epoxy. (If the two parts aren't mixed thoroughly in the proper proportions, they cannot work correctly.)* Apply the epoxy to your parts, making sure to coat all the bonding surfaces.* Tape the parts together, or hold them in place using clamps or weights. (Don't force all of the adhesive out of the joints.) Be sure there is no adhesive where you don't want it, and also be aware that it will 'flow' to some extent. Then set the parts aside and *leave them alone* overnight (the epoxy will harden relatively quickly, but it will continue to gain strength for longer - remember we are doing a critical structural repair). Resist the urge to poke at them and examine them during the critical first minutes of the curing process.* Once the initial application of epoxy has cured, you are encouraged to apply more epoxy to fill in weak areas or to completely cover your metal reinforcements. Note that this epoxy will 'foam up' or swell very slightly (think of polyurethane insulating foam for windows, but on a much smaller scale). When repairing/reinforcing plastic, look for 'stress risers' - usually the plastic will break where there is a 90 degree bend for example. Cover over these areas with a fillet of the epoxy. You can even run 'beads' of the epoxy to add reinforcing ribs. More surface contact with the plastic is better, and be sure to clean and key all the bonding surfaces. If you can bridge across a broken joint completely to enclose it, this is excellent (since we now have a new epoxy 'structural member' rather than relying on just the 'shear strength' of the adhesive).General guideline: Any two-part catalyzed product (like this epoxy) will be miles ahead [technical term] of any one-part product.Pro tip: Say "cure" (not 'dry'). Say "adhesive" (not 'glue').

Get this over the black JB Weld bumper repair. This works EXTREMELY well or Polypropylene bumpers and is the only thing I could find other than the 3M stuff that would do so. The black version doesn't stick at all. 10/10 product just wish they sold it in larger tubes. In my case I used a plastic welder for most of the repair but used this like bondo to smooth out a curve and fill some smaller voids. Would highly recommend this for anyone with a newer polypropylene bumper on their vehicle.

The adhesive is the usual high JB Weld quality. Love the twist lock cap that seals both tubes and is easily opened. Best solution for that problem that I’ve seen.