Chainsaw Sharpening Vise - Stump Vise, Chainsaw Tool, Sharpening Tools

this gadget holds the bar nice and secure when you are sharpening the chain in the field ..... all you need is a heavy stump to hammer it into....it feels strong and sturdy.

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Works great

I used this vise as a starting point for making an exceptionally sturdy setup to hold my chainsaws for sharpening. First, I replaced the thumbscrew (metric) with a hex head bolt so I could really tighten it down. Second, I bolted the Redneck vise to a seven inch piece of wide angle iron across the broad side of the vise (two 1/4" bolts-holes drilled through the vise; a notch has to be cut in the angle iron to match the Redneck vise). Third, I attached the angle iron- with bolted vise, to a 3 ft. piece of 2 X 8 pressure treated wood with lag screws. Finally, I attach a number of layers of 1/2" plywood to the PT board to bring the chainsaw up (handle end) so the bar is centered in the vise.Prior to making this setup I didn't find the "stump" aspect of the vise very effective. Even if you banged the vise into a board it didn't hold very well at all. Certainly not adequately enough for two hand sharpening.I use six inch 1/8" strips of hardwood on the chainsaw bar to help hold the vise tightly while using a ratchet on the vise bolt (no longer a thumbscrew). When using this setup I clamp the 2 X 8 to my outside workbench (I don't want metal filings/bar oil on my shop woodworking workbench). This setup provides a sturdy hold on the bar of the chainsaw so that I can use two hands for sharpening. I use a Pferd CS-X, 2 in 1, chainsaw sharpener. This setup holds the chainsaw nice and tight and gives great results. Obviously, I don't use it as a "stump" vise so I bring two extra chains into the field should I need them. After sharpening I wash my chains in kerosene to get rid of the filings and blow them dry with compressed air. If I ran the chain hot, i.e. ripping versus crosscutting, I spray them down with oven cleaner to remove the hardened baked on pitch (fyi-also a good way to remove pitch on tablesaw blades).I run a Stihl MS 260 Pro w/ an 18" bar, a Stihl MS 441C with a 20" bar or a 33" bar, on occasion, and an electric Makita w/ a 14" bar for indoor shop use and cutting woodturning bowl blanks for the lathe.

All the ones I reviewed seemed nearly identical, save the Stihl one that had the manufacturers logo as part of the casting. It holds the end of the saw fine. It's not a vise, so don't expect that small set screw to hold up the entire saw. Most of the weight of the saw should be on the stump. If you're worried about the set screw marring your bar, put a bit of wood or a rag under it.. Don't expect the paint to hold up on the striking surface if you're driving it in with an actual hammer.The legs don't have a sharp enough surface to drive easily into a hard wood, I might grind the points a bit finer

It does what it's supposed to do. I bashed into some wood and held the chain saw firm.

Nice to be able to sharpen my saw in the woods. Its simple and easy to use

Have you ever tried to sharpen a chainsaw out in the field. There was no way to ever hold the bar steady enough to hand file a chain and get it even close to being sharp. This small field vise works perfectly. Just pound the device into the the top of a log round. Once secured into the round, I put the saw body on another round and tightened the saw bar into the vice. The 50 # round of wood was heavy enough to keep the saw and bar stable enough to allow me to use both hands to do the filing. This worked just as good as using the vise in my shop. Very happy with this