Polymaker PETG Filament 1.75mm 1kg Black 3D Printer Filament, PolyLite PETG 3D Printing Filament 1.75mm, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, Print with Most 3D Printers

I am always skeptical when buying filament. I research watch vids etc. I want the best bang for the buck, but I dont want to have issues printing either. Polymaker has always been a filament ive wanted to try, Its more expensive than others, but I gave it a shot. Since the initial purchase, I have bought 4 more rolls.Color Consistency is on Point, having what I need in stock, also a big plus.Didn't notice any stringing in my prints, Easy to use,Print Profiles readily available. I use a Bambu and Sovol Printer.The green is a tiny bit shinier than the BL brand, but a lot less than the Tinmorry. BL is constantly out of stock and is the reason why I went with Poly and their quality is the reason i will continue to use them.Great Product, Great Quality, I know you're looking at price too, bite the bullet take a spool for a spin.

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED <----------With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!

PolyMaker filament is so incredibly good in every way that I've stopped using other brands completely. Clogs are a non-issue, their filament comes very dry from the factory, and the print quality is amazing. This PETG also strings less than other PETG's, I've noticed. Very good value for around $20-25 per kilogram, I highly recommend it

I have used 8 different brands of PETG, all with similar results. Matte vs. Shiny is about the only differences between all of them... except this one! This one is very weird. It was well packaged in a VERY sealed vacuum bag. My work area has 2% humidity (yes, really - Arizona where the A/C extracts all of the water in the air). This PETG doesn't have an issue with moisture, it has an issue of severe stringing! I tried various temperatures from can barely extrude to deliberately too hot and the stringing never went away. It's like a spider is stuck in my print nozzle! I changed the nozzle just to make sure it didn't have a burr that was splitting the plastic or something.The other issue is that this PETG does not stick well. I use a flexible metal plate with PEI on it for the print bed and there are some PETG brands that require a LOT of force to get the parts off. This stuff will actually lift from the PEI during the print - something I have not seen in probably 10 years when we all used barbaric glue sticks and blue tape for PLA. :)The only thing I do like about this is the spool is made of fiber material that is a light color, making it is (contrast wise) to see how much filament is remaining on the spool... which is a lot because this stuff is never going to be used ever again!I really hate giving things negative reviews, and I am probably more harsh than normal because I am out of my normal go-to brands like Duramic and Novamaker (both of which are absolutely flawless), and I am now stuck waiting for new filament to arrive and I am trying to get a job done!

Love this color! Printed part of my enclosure with it. Looks fabulous! PETG is best for printing your enclosure and is best for handling the heat.