Crouse-Hinds BRMIKCSR Mechanical Interlock Kit

This is the only way to do a proper generator hookup to your main panel. It’s definitely worth the price. Only thing I wish it had a template to make your drill marks. I made my own but was still a bit off. No biggie. Everything works as it should

This is a great option for connecting an emergency generator to house circuits. There is a spectrum of options ranging from fully automatic standby generator with auto transfer switch (most expensive and would make the most sense if you lose electricity on a monthly basis or more often) to fully manual emergency generator with extension cords running from the generator, through a door or window, and into the house for more extension cords to be connected (which would make sense if you want to spend the least money and/or do not want to do any installation work). It’s fully manual you are also somewhat limited on which circuits you can energize - extension cords cannot energize your room lighting, central air / heat, house security system, etc.The mechanical interlock approach is a happy medium approach in my opinion. It requires one to manually position the mobile generator (out of storage and into the open), connect the single generator cord to a (bought and installed) receptacle, opening all breakers, then closing the generator breaker and any branch circuit that you desire connected during an emergency (taking care not to overload the generator). This is a very flexible approach allowing you to connect any circuit up to the capacity of the generator. I used a clamp on ammeter to check loads during my testing exercise.Allows me to safely connect my emergency generator directly to my panel board through a receptacle and double pole breaker in the panel. My panel board is a 60 circuit (if using half size branch circuit breakers), 150 amp main breaker, Cutler Hammer, 2001 vintage. Note that each interlock plate is designed for specific makes and models of circuit breaker panel boards.Setup (for drilling screw pilot holes) takes a little time (about an hour total). I used duct tape to temporarily attach the interlock plate in the correct place (with the panel cover closed on the panel). See photo. I was able to confirm operation of the two breakers (main and generator breakers) as intended with the taped up interlock plate. I then removed the cover, marked the hole location and drilled the holes. Take your time and keep the plate square with the cover and breaker openings. Clearance is tight - there is very little room for error.I had to move a couple of circuit breakers in order to make room for the double pole emergency generator breaker to be at the top right position in the panel.Very happy with the results. Minimal manual activity when emergency happens. Maximum flexibility on selecting emergency circuits.

It is a little pricey, but it will keep you legal, protect you, your house and equipment and most importantly protect the powerline workers. Since the pictures in the description doesn't show all the breakers it is compatible with. I thought I would take a picture of the back of the package. Note, only a license/certified professional electrician should do the following to find the breaker panel model number. You have to TURN OFF the main breaker switch, pull the panel completely off and look inside for a sticker on one of the side walls. The sticker is no more than an inch and a half wide by two inches long and very basic. I hope this helps.

My panel specified this mechanical lockout switch and it was a perfect fit. The panel had the drill holes already market.The face plate of the panel is adjustable to set the correct distance to avoid the breaker to slip under the lockout switch.I already used the switch on one occasion and it adds a lot of safety and comfort in combination with a generator.

I like the idea of a very stout, solidly built mechanical interlock allowing homeowners the ability to connect their generator directly into their home wiring system safely. This product meets those criteria.Where this product is significantly deficient is in the documentation.1) The packet provides you with both 3/16 and1/4" screws, but with no documentation on which to use where or when.2) There is a very very critical step in aligning the interlock to the existing breaker panel cover. If you have a new panel, they tell you use the 4 small indentions to line up the 4 screw holes and drill those 4 holes. Fair enough.HOWEVER, if you, like most people don't live in a home with an electric panel that is less than 10 years old (the newer panels have the indentions the older ones don't) then their advice is to make sure you've put the interlock in the right place - but no information on how to find that place. Considering the size of the interlock panel, and the fact that there is less than 1/8" vertical AND horizontal margin for error, that gives a typical installer who hasn't done this before a 1 out of 1280 chance of drilling the holes within the margin of error to get this interlock to work right.3) There is a Youtube video that shows how one guy installed it then grinded down the parts that stuck out too far to get it to work. But there is a better way...4) I took the panel down and measured where (horizontal and vertical) the interlock would be vs. the main power switch when it should be on, and the same information for the generator breaker. This took about an hour with a micrometer but resulted in a mounting that is in that exact 1/1280 spot. (I'd publish my measurements but they are only valid for a very specific older Cutler Hammer panel.) You can do the same thing, take your time and be very precise in your measurements.5) The correct solution for Eaton is to provide a few templates with specific dimensions required for their more popular panels. (Now that I know what to measure for an how to measure it I could probably do a different panel in 15 minute. Hint Eaton, make this easy for your customers.Had they had the template or even provides specific clearances this would have been much easier, and they would have received a rave 5 star review. Fix the issue Eaton and I'll revise this review.

I had to line up and drill my box, but so long as you take your time.

New NEC 2020 code does not allow this product!Some AHJ's are not allowing this to be used anymore and you need to look to an automatic switching system check with your AHJ.The product is designed for ETON panels (Newer ones) while they will work on old panels and take a bit more work I recommend using a tap and drill and verifying placement before drilling any holes. Your tolerances to work with are about 1/16 to 3 /16, not much play so measure twice cut once.