HDMI Splitter 1x2 4K SP12H2

Successful at blocking HDCP stream (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection, a technology developed to prevent the unauthorized copying of digital audio and video content as it travels between devices, such as from a Blu-ray player to a TV). I use this in combo with Avermedia recorder and a Firestick to record shows, etc. If you plug the Firestick into the Avermedia HDMI input, you get only a black screen. With this device between the Avermedia and Firestick, the output is normal. Working good so far!

This is what you need if you're splitting a signal between your projector, TV and others. The settings are customizable to fit many style home theater setups. HUGE NOTICE: If you're having dropouts, it's your HDMI cables. They are not created equal, change them to better quality ones and you should be good to go. If you're having sound problems, it's your devices. Change the source to PCM if you're using this for a capture setup. Capture cards usually cannot capture a dolby+ signal. Hopefully this info helps someone somewhere. Last note. I wish this came with at least one high-bandwidth HDMI cable... but I'm just happy it works!

This is a powerhouse of a video/audio splitter/downconverter! I have an old 7.1 audio receiver that cannot receive a 4K signal, yet needs a connection from HDMI in order to properly deliver 7.1 audio. I found this device and was hoping it would work well, and it absolutely does the job. I have my Apple TV connected to the HDMI in (with EDID switched to 7.1 to trick the Apple TV into passing through proper audio) with my TV connected to HDMI out 1 (no downscale) and the receiver hooked up to HDMI 2 (1080p downscale). The build quality is great, features work flawlessly so far with current electronics (Apple TV even offers Atmos audio pass through which I wasn’t expecting) and the box even has details on how to update firmware if that becomes something in the future. The adapter works flawlessly once it’s working properly with SDR content, however I do have 2 issues: 1.) Sometimes the converter/splitter doesn’t work properly if the source becomes active AFTER the converter is booted up. I have the adapter plugged in to a USB port that becomes powered after the TV turns on (which is typically turned on by my Apple TV) so this is not a problem for me. However this can be solved by unplugging the converter then plugging it back in. 2.) HDR content will pass through to be down converted to 1080p, however HDR will remain active which may lead to an inaccurately colored image. Sadly you’ll need to turn HDR off if you’re using both displays at the same time, but if you’re like me the quality of the 1080p output doesn’t matter as it’s going into an audio receiver. Overall for the price I would definitely recommend. I’ve been using the device for a few weeks now with minimal issues. Hopefully it’ll last a while!

Works great. I was looking for a device that could attach to my PC via a DisplayPort to HDMI cable, connect to a monitor, and then give me a spare port to attach an EVGA XR1 Lite capture card. It was important to me that the normal monitor name shows up in Device Manager or via AMD RX6700XT software. I really did not want either EVGA, which is what happens when EVGA was connected directly, or some random string (SS1T2 AUDIO) to show up, which is what happened with another competitor device. This device successfully obtains the EDID info from the monitor, and then passes that through to the PC. I didn't spend much time testing this, but initial indications are that an HDCP connection is established to the input port no matter whether any of the attached devices support it. In my case, my monitor does. I'm using this just at 1920x1080. Important point for these devices: you need to use a dumb USB power adapter (this does not come with), my fancy high-wattage Anker did not work.

Super worth it splitter for PlayStation 5 streamers or those with home theater setups! I thought I'd need to upgrade either my TV or AVR to be able to fully enjoy 4K HDR Bluray disks & 60fps gaming on the PS5 along with HD/lossless audio. My Hisense TV doesn't have eARC, while my Sherwood AVR can't pass through 4K + HDR + 60Hz via HDMI. So it was a choice of either connecting direct to the TV via HDMI to get 4K HDR 60Hz, but with only standard 5.1 Dolby Digital or DTS as my audio options connected via optical or ARC. Or, if I use HDMI passthrough, I can get 7.1 Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD Master audio via the AVR but I'm limited to 4K 30Hz only with no HDR on the TV. I've already tried other supposed 4K HDMI splitters, but they would either downgrade the video to 1080p or audio to stereo when splitting the signal. But I found a YouTube review of this EZCOO splitter showing how it can properly split 4K HDR with full 7.1 HD audio. Saw it on sale on Amazon, and for the price I thought it would be worth trying. Out of the box, with the default settings, it didn't work right away. But after flicking some switches on the splitter and a PS5 restart, I was able to get what I wanted, 4K 60Hz HDR on the TV and full 7.1 HD audio (True HD, HD Master or PCM) through the AVR, without using passthrough! Proof is in the pictures. Here's what worked for me: TV connected to Output1, AVR connected to Output2. Set Scaler on Output2 to ON. Set EDID to 4K. Important things to take note: Make sure all your cables are at least HDMI 2.0 compatible. Plug the splitter into a USB port with enough power (I tried it with a USB hub and it didn't work, but it works with the PS5's USB plugs). And most importantly, especially during initial setup, make sure your TV and AVR are both already turned ON first BEFORE you turn on your PS5. Their customer service is pretty great too. When I wasn't able to get it to work at first, I messaged them and they quickly responded (although I was actually able to figure it out for myself before I got to read their reply). Anyway, thanks to this device, no need to upgrade my TV and AVR for now, or maybe until all the PS5 HDMI 2.1 issues get ironed out. 🙂

I tried connecting this device up to a Vizio PX65-G1 TV in the first output and video capture device into the second output with the second output scaling to 1080p. In most configurations, I was experiencing random video loss on the 4K side (TV) while the capture device never lost video. The video loss was not a consistent timing but would occur about every 5-10 seconds on average. I tested several different configurations in an effort to narrow down the issue. I tested every combination of the following: - Using one of three input devices: An 8th generation Intel NUC, AppleTV 4K, and Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K. - Connecting the capture card in the second HDMI output and nothing connected in the second HDMI output. - HDR10, Dolby Vision, and SDR 4K output (except the Intel NUC only ever outputted SDR). - Copy EDID from the first output or use the 4K EDID. I would even disconnect the HDMI in between each configuration, power-cycle the device, and reconnect the HDMI. This appeared to make no difference. I tried updating the firmware to the lastest available on the manufacture's site with no change in behavior. In testing the above configurations, the consistent factor was that the TV would cut out video on HDR (HDR10 or Dolby Vision) but would not cut out on SDR. This was true of every combination tried above. Most telling was that the TV would cut video randomly when the AppleTV 4K or Fire TV Stick 4K was connected directly to the splitter using HDR and the TV was connected directly via the first HDMI output with nothing connected to the second HDMI output. Additionally, when the TV was directly connected to the AppleTV 4K or Fire TV Stick 4K, the TV never cut out whether it was in SDR or HDR.

This one actually works exactly and will downscale 1080p on the second output. Careful with sound, when downmixing the audio with PCM multichannel, only L and R channels would produce sound, Not center, right or sub. Luckily this feeds a HDMI to H264 adapter that has HDMI and RCA audio injection so i just use a optical to RCA adapater and manually feed the audio. Now , i have full atmos and DTSHD in the theater, and 1080P with "stereo" throughout the rest of the house.

TLDR: worked great for 5 months, then died. I got 2 of these for splitting between a setup at one desk and a setup at another. They were easy to set up, and worked perfectly... for about 5 months. Then one of them died. It started showing this ugly rainbow effect over the whole display, like the video feed was corrupted. Shortly after that it stopped outputting at all. I can't find anything about the power requirements for this thing, so I have no clue if it was damage caused by under current, or if these things are just cheap junk that fail after a short period. Either way, going with a different brand for the replacement.