Multi Angle Miter Cutter | Extra Blade 2 Pack | Universal Fit | Shear Hand Tool | Cuts From 45 To 135 Degrees | Stainless Steel Sharp Blades (Extra Blades)

The blade fit great with my lowe qtr round cutters . Easy to install .

These are not good at at all, I bought them to cut FabricMate 1/2” plastic track as a second set and they won’t cut it any where as easy as the brand Miter-Boss chamfer cutters I guess there is no substitution for quality.

Love the accuracy and solid build of the device. Using it to cut screen moulding - foam moulding is fine, but pine is not easy to cut... chipped the first blade that was with it. (Have two extras that were ordered with it, expecting the chip to happen) I just took my file and smoothed off the rough edge and continued cutting... will continue to cut the foam mouldings, but will use the device ONLY to mark and score the would mouldings and then use my coping saw to finish the job...Not a big deal, since this device requires less equipment - miter saw, miter box or miter chop saw... save considerable time for me and gives me exact cuts...Blades need to be made like knives, not like razor blades... I can sharpen the blades with a file or a dremel...I would recommend this to others...

I bought this tool to install shoe molding and it works well. To be fair, I've only used it a few times so far but it cuts a nice smooth cut on whatever angle you need. Saves trips back and forth to the saw and time is money.

I bought these because I work in home manufacturing and needing them to cut trim batons. I mean maybe I just bought these for the wrong reason but… they suck these batons are maybe 1 inch in width and 1/8 inch thick at most. And these barley cut. I have to use all my strength to cut these small little pieces of wood.

This is a well built set of cutters, and the extra blade is nice, but there are design flaws that limit usability. Under the blade on the anvil of base cutting area are grooves for the blade to sit in below the cutting surface after a cut is made. This seems fine in theory, but what it results in is the blade unable to cut through the material as the material is unsupported and gets depressed into that groove. Small strip wood gets mostly cut but has a lingering bit at the end as the cut is not complete. The blade more or less mashes its way through the cut. A ragged end is the result. That was with 1/16" square basswood strips. Larger wood strips like a popsicle stick yielded similar fuzzy results.Styrene is my primary modeling material. Plastic strips cut were square, which is good, but the blade mostly compressed the plastic, not shearing it edge was mashed down and would need dressing up with a file.CHANGES NEEDEDThe blade is not a pure single edge grind. It has a slight back bevel to the blade resulting in a V knife edge that compresses, not cut. It may be possible to hone the back bevel back to flush so it cuts on one side only.Filling in the surface anvil/cutting surface with epoxy and filing it flat and flush might prevent the material being cut from being pushed into the relief slot.More expensive or better cutters might already address this. I have never had a set before so I cannot compare. This was cheap enough to try, and I might mod this to something more usable for my use case. Otherwise it is going to sit in a drawer forgotten.UPDATE:I couldn't wait to try modifying the tool and immediately tried putting a couple of layers of masking tape across the surface to raise the cutting area. This fixed the incomplete cut issue, but tape is not a long term solution, plus the miter fence could not swivel. I used some 0.020" thin plastic sheet to glue to the surface. I disassembled the plate to do so. A separate small piece was used for the rotating fence. A bit of super glue and a sharp modeling knife to trim the excess away afterwards and it was done.Now the blade shears the material instead of compressing it. Perhaps more expensive versions have this already addressed, but a bit of plastic sheet (Evergreen Styrene) and it is now usable.

Used it for cutting vintage window screen trim about 1/4" x 3/4" white pine or fur. Needed to cut 200+ 45* angle cuts and this did it and is still sharp. The wood not being balsa wood took a two handed grip to cut and some of the trim was harder than others but saved a huge amount of time, no marking, no sawing, no sanding, no splinters just a clean smooth cut. Actually burnishes the end of the wood leaving it slightly shinny and very pro looking, actually better than a pro finish.

Before I ordered this cutter I emailed the seller and got a description of it. It sounded like what I needed and was exactly as described. Unfortunately it would not fit my Midwest cutter. After mounting it I found the back end of the blade contacted the plate and the tip was up over 1/4". I'm going to see if it will fit my 2nd cutter and if it does I'll keep them for spares. If not I'll have to return them. Not the sellers fault. I had to try. Tried again but still won't fit the Midwest cutter. Held it up to the higher quality cutter and it lines up perfectly!

Arrived in acceptable time. Lost points due to:There are two "knobs" on the leveler that prevents the item being cut from setting flush causing inaccurate cuts and for wood pieces to splinter. These "knobs" are not shown on the cutter in the adverted pictures. Returning it.