BGProducts MOA & EPR Motor Oil Additive Lubrication Supplement Engine Restore

I have an 1956 420 JD crawler, it was burning oil badly, first time I changed the oil it was pure sludge after sitting for a decade neglected. It kept fouling the plugs. I used this 2x, the first time I followed the directions. fouled the plugs after use the first time and had to clean them up to get it started (2 cylinder). It improved...slightly but still burned oil to about a quart every 5 gallons. I had great compression oddly, so I figured the plugs must still be sticking. I did not give it long enough to work. THE SECOND TIME I ran it again but this time drove it all over high throttle, got it nice and hot for 20 minutes. Fouled the plugs again but this time it is running much better. Less smoke, though I am sure I will need to keep topping off the oil the change in both performance and oil consumption is noticeable.

I've recently dealt with an oil consumption issue with my Hyundai Sonata. It was consuming more oil than normal due to oil getting stuck in the upper crankcase. Under normal circumstances the oil would flow back to oil pan, but that wasn't the case for me. This anomaly extended to other areas, clogged the piston rings, PCV valve and the exhaust manifold. I replaced all the parts that was affected except for the piston rings.However, the issue persisted because the underlying problem was never addressed which was the carbonized oil clogging the piston rings. At the time I was aware of the major issue that was affecting the consumer with the theta engines from piston rod failure but the oil consumption was not "Mainstream" but years passed and I noticed that my vehicle was consuming oil at a staggering rate.I've estimated the vehicle was burning 1-2 quarts between 300-500 miles, and I had to buy a extra gallon of oil to add into the system when I checked the dip stick. This process became quite a nuisances. I consulted the dealership to see if there was a remedy to fix the issue I was having, and they offered a combustion clean which was $636. I opted out and found a product called "Berryman intake valve & combustion chamber cleaner" for $35 dollars at Advance Auto Parts. Unfortunately, it did not correct the issue.I joined a Facebook page where the community shared tips, testimonies about the issues Hyundai's vehicles. There was constant post about oil consumption issues and the chatter about a product called EPR. Being inquisitive, I inquired with members on how they solved their issues. The focus was on this product called EPR. To be clear, I did not know anything about this product. I have used seafoam to unclog the system, but it did not work on the level I needed. A member told me about EPR and how it changed the outcome of his vehicle.Firstly, I order the combo pack EPR and MOA the shipping was decent and it arrived unblemished. I want to emphasis that if you are going to use this product buy double the oil and filters and make sure that your oil is topped off before you begin using the cleaner. The reasoning to "double the oil" is that you are going to put the cleaner in the crankcase, idle the car around 1,200RPM for 10 minutes and drain and change filter. Then fill the system again, let it idle again for 2-3min to help push sludge oil and drain. The last gallon of oil is what stays in the vehicle as the first fill and drain help move the extra sludge that still existed inside the engine out.Secondly, this product has made a difference with my problem I will make sure to update this post when the issue has been fixed. It has put my mind to ease, the product is reputable, cost effective, well rounded and used by mechanics nationwide. Although, it states for "professional use only" anyone who can understand basics terminology whether you're an everyday driver, DIY enthusiast who wants to maintain the longevity of their engines and performance can use this product.Thirdly, I confidently say that many of us who depend on our vehicles want results that will not cost a fortune. Sometimes you have to go with the costly approach, but if you are having an oil consumption problem try this product. Nothing bad will come from using it in my opinion but it varies. My Sonata is now quieter, and the oil looks fresh which is what I like to see.In my opinion the product MOA & EPR Motor Oil Additive is a solid choice that has history and results. It's easy to use and delivers a noticeable difference to your engine. Now that this issue has been resolved I can rest more better knowing I won't have to deal with the past. However, I advise those who used this product to maintain an eye on oil levels to ensure that everything is within parameters.

First time with this pre/post oil treatment on my 2011 Sienna V6 and my 2009 CR-V, both at roughly 200K. The engines run quieter and smoother. I don't expect much mileage-wise, but CR-V oil consumption is slightly reduced, and there is a notable performance improvement in both cars.

We used this kit as a cleaning for the wife's 2014 hybrid Camry that had started to burn a little bit of oil between changes @ 100K on the clock. We suspected that maybe the piston rings were stuck. The EPR is run as a flush with existing oil befor a change and the MOA was added to the next 2 oil changes. We've used full synthetic since then and the oil burning has ceased. Going strong at 150K+ miles.

Well, I did the service. Followed the instructions to a T. Car runs similar to how it did beforehand. Oil when drained was very, very black. I use Mobil1 0w-20 on 5k change intervals and it has never been this black in our 180k mile Mazda. So, maybe it cleans well enough. The protect MOA part? It's not like I can tell. Will update after next 5k oil change.

Si far excellent product! Had a lifter noice n dissappear after the treatment. Engine feels smoother now!

This stuff works. It's not a miracle cure-all. But it helps break loose the crud inside your engine.Pay attention and buy Amazon shipped and amazon customer service. I had another company try to short my order and wasn't going to believe me until I dug the shipping package from the trash. MG is their initials.

This stuff worked amazingly , used on a 4 runner with 330k miles on it. 4 runner was burning a quart a month , used exactly as directed and the burning of oil has almost completely went away