22 Gauge 3 Conductor Shielded Wire 25FT, UL2464 22 AWG 3 Core Cable Tinned Copper Stranded 22/3 CNC Wire for CNC VFD Spindle, Stepper Motor, 3D Printer, Sound, Speaker, Signal Transmission, etc.

WORKED GREAT FOR MY NEEDS

Ex to strip

This is an excellent noise-free cable. Very well designed and shielded with foil and braid. Only thing missing is a drain wire but the braided shield solders easy enough so no problem. Solders with ease after I flux it. I use it to build custom cables for my musical instruments professionally. Note that there are several unshielded TA3f to 1/4 TS male cables available but I wanted shielded so I made my own.

This wire is some of the best I’ve worked with for XLR and TRS balanced connections. I purchased it to split trigger signals from an Alesis drum set, but found that it was flexible and strong enough to build some TRS to XLR audio cables with it. The internal insulation does not melt away when soldered like many others do, and the shielded portion is 2 layers thick. A tightly wrapped metallic mylar/foil directly around the three conductors and a high quality weaved shield around that. I haven’t seen quality wire like this for the price in quite a while.

I ordered this 6-conductor wire to complete my custom RGBIC custom hanging lamp project. Wire and insulation quality is good and I had no continuity issues. The cable is flexible and easy to work with. I would definitely use this wire brand again.

not much to say about wire other than to check they sent/sold what was claimed; which mine is correct length. Check that the right number of wires are in there...check 6 wires plus ground and foil wrap.Problem here is the misleading and dishonesty saying 'pure copper'. Ever done geometry? Ever noticed a smaller diameter has a much smaller area than a larger circles area? Well SAME THING HERE; tinned copper is NOT 'pure copper'. Of course they 'tin the outside' where a good thick layer of it reduces the costs and expense of 'real copper' - then they play some word games and say stuff like corrosion resistant; copper is already pretty good at that unless you get it around marine stuff but TONS of dry copper in homes just 'bare' to the world NOT CORRODING. This is a gimmick; it is MORE resistive than pure copper.Still mine is 6c/22 awg with foil wrap and braided shield and a cotton string inner.Cost/value: 23 with 10% coupon in sep2024; which is reasonable albeit a little high. What we'll be using it for is an intercom system between 2 grandkids bedrooms so they can pretend to be sleeping when they're visiting - they're all into electronics right now and something they build themselves will give them some feeling of accomplishment.This 6c wire will be good for this application due to the power and full duplexing required.I try to be a vine reviewer that says more than 'dis gud' or 'dis no gud' - so there you go.Did I get this for 'free'? KIND OF - I didn't have to pay for it - but will have to pay taxes on it (no free lunches huh; and we pay for the full value; no coupons or discounts which are sometimes significant) - DO have to write reviews - and cannot return items, even if they're horrible, or non-functional. Limited to 3 selections and the selections of what I'll use/need are scarce. Thus far, my few vine items have been good. Know full well that all reviews are subjective based on the expectations of the person reviewing. Some people send their eggs back if the cheese isn't melted quite right - others realize they're at a low quality restaurant and just enjoy the food. I buy products that tend to be budget and I never request a vine item I didn't NEED and wasn't considering buying for myself. Because let's be honest - money does matter - you have extra in the bank you're more willing to lose a little experimenting. I am not; we usually just break even. Have given over 500+ reviews prior to being ASKED to join vine, and I still review my regular purchases because it's consumers working together that help us weed the good products from the bad. I spend upwards of 2-3 hours on these reviews - considering packaging, instructions, and usage of the items - plus lots of testing in various ways - I'm definitely underpaid. But I was doing it before for 'free', and still doing it after joining vine 'for free' for items I do buy - so did I really get a product for free? Or, did a lot of time, effort, thought, and consideration go into these? Plus the 30-60 minutes typing it all out - I'll let you decide. I'll tell you this though - no one buys my opinion - I'll tear it apart just as easily as give it praise - but do realize that cheap is rarely good and good is rarely cheap. If it does that which it claims that's a good start - there is ALWAYS a 'better' of everything. Knowing that I only request items I NEED may sway my bias a little but not because I got it without having to pay in money (just time and effort).Finally, I don't give recommendations - your shopping is your experience and not mine. I cannot anticipate your life, your needs, or your satisfaction with anything. All I can do is review from my perspective, knowledge level, usage cases, and expectations. Good luck and take care.

Needed to have a cable to connect to sensors in a Router table dust collection box, and this worked just great.

A little background... using a shield as a current carrier is never a good thing. For most unbalanced signals up to about 10 feet it's not a big deal, but get above that and it gets iffy. Any conductor will generate a magnetic field when current is passing through it, and will generate current when a moving magnetic field passes through it. I've seen devices that use shielded cable with the shield as a power ground and to me, that's a major no-no. (An aside at the end.) For the nerdy details, you can look up "right-hand-thumb" and "left-hand-thumb."So for longer cables, such as a pedal board to an amplifier, for example, the best way to do it is to use two conductor wire like this and only connect the shield on one end. The million dollar studio cables will use two shields, one connected on each end. That's usually overkill, but for super long runs (better be balanced!) it can make a difference. I've also seen debates as to whether the source or destination should be where attached. If only one is Earth grounded, that would be the better end, but really, not that critical. Same with whether the inner or outer shield should be source or destination, where applicable. I have the 2+shield. For balanced lines there is 3+shield, again for wired ground and single terminated shield.As to this particular wire, I found it to be easy to work with... it soldered well, although the insulation on the individual conductors could handle heat a little better. Don't use too much heat and keep it quick and it's OK. I'm just spoiled by the high temp wire we use at work. It stripped with no issues, the foil shield peeled back OK and the braid opened and soldered with no issues. It would be a little stiff for guitar to amp/pedal use, but not unusable. My plan is for pedal board to amplifier, and it is flexible enough to wind at the end of the gig.The end to end resistance for the 25 foot hank I have was near the noise floor on my bench, and while I don't have a dedicated capacitance tester, I do have that function on a hand-held DMM. I measured about .002µF conductor to conductor for the full 25 feet, about .003µF for one conductor to shield. That's probably higher than actual, especially since the wire was coiled at the time. That's the threshold for the meter (a good one, but capacitance is an afterthought) and probably mostly residual, so for a normal run, capacitance shouldn't be an issue.They listed speaker as a use in the ad copy, but that's not recommended. Too thin and you shouldn't use shielded for speaker wire.Just remember, For Long Runs, Two Wire Is Better for Unbalanced.As an aside, there's a manufacturer of gear for drag racing called Dedenbear, (AKA "Need a Beer") that makes some electronic devices. An electronically as well as acoustically noisy environment, to be sure. They use a sophisticated grounding scheme for the enclosures, which are then isolated with grommets from the vehicle chassis. This means that the enclosure is just shield and carries no current... i.e., a "cul-de-sac" of ground.