Fluke 107 AC/DC Current Handheld Digital Multimeter by Fluke, Gray

I am a ham radio operator and like to troubleshoot and repair my own radios as well as others. This is a small convenient multimeter which has all the functions I need. Convenient to carry in the field and easy to set up and use. Very accurate, well made, controls are intuitive.

This is a great meter very accurate and useful. Awesome seller fast shipping

I don't use my meter often, but when I do, I like to know the readings are accurate and reliable. In my 40 years in the petroleum industry, we ALWAYS relied on FLUKE for our electronic measuring devices. Many were high end models for the critical fine measurements on our boards and circuits and used in concert with our oscilloscopes. I didn't need highend for my shop and my use around my home. This unit is ideal. Simple and straight forward. Perfect model for storage and use at home. Gives me all I need to know.

Fluke model 107 Digital MultimeterI have a nice laboratory that is equipped with high quality equipment by makers such as HP, Fluke, Tektronix, etc. But I also have a woodworking shop in my basement where from time to time I need to do some electrical work, nothing fancy. For years, I just had a cheapo handheld by some no-name Chinese maker; the tips of the test leads broke off, the display is dim and I have never completely trusted the accuracy. For 2024, a new years’ resolution was to buy a suitable handheld, preferably pocket-sized, digital multimeter from a leading maker for use in that dirty environment.Fluke has more than one meter that would have satisfied my requirements, and the two best candidates were the model s 106 & 107; I chose the 107 because it has everything the 106 has, plus it can test diodes and measure the frequency and duty cycle of any AC signal (Volts or Amps) the meter is currently measuring. I think for most home/hobbyist uses (which this series is designed for) the 106 would be satisfactory; it was the diode test which was the main reason I spend the extra money on the 107.The 107 measures at 5.75”H x 2.875”W x 1.25”D, and weighs 6oz. It is small and light enough to be easily carried (with test leads disconnected) in a shirt, pants, or jacket pocket. I did get a laugh when looking at the Fluke literature, which shows a guy with this meter in the pocket of his dress shirt (minus the leads), and wondered if he just carries the leads around in his hand, or just likes to show off by having a meter in his pocket all the time. The included test leads are about 4’ long, plug the added dimensions of the probes and shrouded banana plugs on the ends. They are Fluke brand, but are not the same as the leads that come with the more industrial Fluke meters; these have the cheaper insulation that is rather stiff and probably not very heat resistant, whereas the better test leads are high strand count and silicone rubber insulated, making for nice loose characteristics and good heat tolerance. You get what you pay for in this regard.The meter itself seems to be made consistently with other Fluke handheld digital multimeters; it has a robust molded plastic case, but does not have the rubberized sheath that the majority of models include. The back of the case has a slide-open battery compartment that holds two (2) AAA size cells; Fluke does not specify Alkaline or Lithium, so I use Lithium ones because they are unlikely to have leakage issues over time, a curse that can plague Alkaline-powered instruments left unattended for extended periods of time (as most handheld multimeters are wont to do). The cover to the battery compartment swings open, rather than sliding off as most cheap meters do, and can be removed entirely. A twist lock keeps the cover in place when closed; this is a nice, quality feature.It is worth noting that even this “low end” Fluke DVM is safety rated to survive a drop from as high as 1 meter (about 3 feet) onto a hard surface without damage more severe than a scratch.Unlike most modern handheld multimeters, the 107 does NOT have a folding kick-stand on the back of the case. Instead, it comes with the so-called “magnetic smart stand”, which is a faux-leather strip with molded-in flex seams, ferrous metallic plates sewn inside, and a magnet at one end; the other end is formed like the pointy end of a leather belt, which can pass through a slot on the rear of the meter case and fold over itself to be held in position by some Velcro. When attached to the meter in this way, the rest of the strip can fold in a few different ways such that the magnet sticks to various places elsewhere on the strip, thus forming the shape(s) of a stand that can hold the meter at several different viewing angles on a surface. The magnet can also be stuck to a ferrous metal surface and then meter then hangs from that surface. The online user manual does not mention this ‘stand’, nor describe how it is intended to be used.The 107 has a single fuse, for the Amps function only, and that is buried inside. It would have been nicer if it were accessible from the battery compartment, but Fluke decided that the case must be opened (by removing three screws) for fuse access.The 107’s display is an LCD that works transflectively from ambient light, and there is also a light blue LED backlight which the user can turn on and off using a dedicated button. The backlight automatically turns itself off after 2 minutes of inactivity; this can be defeated to stay on all the time. The meter itself also has an automatic power-off after 20 minutes of inactivity; this also can be defeated to keep the meter on constantly for as long as desired. The display is a “6000 count” type, and thus can read up to 6000 in whatever appropriate units (see the specifications below). The meter is auto-ranging by default; I thought that certain situations may result in it NOT auto-ranging, but the manual does not address such an eventuality. I called Fluke tech support, and they said that in all functions and ranges, except for ‘continuity test’ and ‘diode test’, the 107 meter is ALWAYS in auto-range mode and this cannot be defeated. The display always reads “Auto Range” except for when the meter is in those special functions.There are three recessed (safety type) banana jacks on the meter’s front face; one for current (A), one for Volts, Ohms, capacitance and diodes (VΩ etc), and one for COMmon in all functions. The red test lead goes in either of the first two jacks, and the black test lead goes in the COM jack. The ‘A’ jack is fused for 10A maximum. The maximum voltage applied between the VΩ jack and the COM jack is 600V (CAT III). Protection for all inputs other than Amps is electronic rather than by fuse.The main control on the meter is a selector switch knob with seven (7) positions: OFF, AC Volts, DC Volts, AC mV, Ω, Capacitance, AC/DC A. The knob is well shaped ergonomically, and the switch has a nice crisp detent while still being easy to turn.There are three ‘soft touch’ (rubbery key pad over tactile pushbutton) buttons on the meter’s front face (the related model 106 only has two buttons, an easy way to tell them apart).The left button is the “HOLD”; pressing it once freezes the display and disables further readings and auto-ranging, pressing it again returns to normal operation.The center button is marked “Hz %”; pressing it while the meter is measuring AC Volts or AC Amps will cause the display to stop showing the voltage or current, and instead show the frequency of the AC signal in Hz. Pressing the button again causes the display of the AC signal’s duty cycle in % (where 50% is a perfectly symmetrical AC waveform). Pressing the button again returns the display to normal AC Volts or AC Amps display.The right button is unmarked and has a yellow (color coded) button. This has a few functions:- While the selector knob is in the AC/DC A position, pressing this button will toggle between AC and DC current measurement. The current AC/DC mode is shown on the display. The selector switch AC/DC A position uses a yellow icon to remind the user that the yellow button is applicable.- While the selector knob is in the Ω position, pressing the yellow button toggles between three sub-modes: regular Ohms measurement, continuity tester, diode test, and back to Ohms. Icons on the display indicate which sub-mode the meter is currently in.In the Continuity sub-mode, the readout shows the resistance in Ohms, and the audible beeper sounds if the resistance is less than 70Ω. If the circuit being tested is ‘open’, the display shows “OL” for ‘overload’ or ‘infinite’.In the Diode Test sub-mode, with the read test lead on the diode’s anode and the black test lead on the cathode (forward biasing the diode), the display will show the diode’s forward voltage drop in Volts. With the test leads reversed relative to the diode, the display shows “OL” for “overload” or “infinite”. This procedure can be used to determine the diode’s polar orientation. If the reading is other than the above two options, it is probably faulty.With the selector in the Capacitance mode (the icon is that of a capacitor schematic symbol), the test leads get connected to the capacitor in question, and the display shows the capacitance in either nanofarads (nF) or microfarads (µF). Due to the testing scheme used by the meter, the meter should remain connected to the capacitor for up to 18 seconds before the display stabilizes on the most accurate value. Ideally, the red test lead should be connected to the + side of any polarized capacitors (e.g. electrolytic types). The manual does not mention discharging capacitors before connecting them to the meter; this might be an oversight, or perhaps the meter circuitry is well protected in this regard.The meter is able to test its own internal fuse. With the selector switch in the Ω position, and with the red test lead is plugged into the VΩ jack, that lead’s probe is inserted into the ‘A’ jack until electrical contact is made. A display reading of less than 0.5Ω indicates a good fuse, and a display of “OL” indicates a blown fuse that should be replaced.When the battery gets low, a “empty battery” icon appears in the display.Here are the basic specifications (taken from the manual):- Max V between any terminal and earth ground: 600V- Display update rate: 3 updates per second- Battery life (battery type not specified): 200 hours minimum- Battery type: AAA, type not specified (presumably Alkaline & Lithium as OK)- Operating temperature: 0°C ~ 40°C (32°F ~ 104°F)- DC Volts ranges: 6.000V, 60.00V, 600.0V, accuracy 0.5% + 3 counts- AC Volts ranges: 6.000V, 60.00V, 600.0V, accuracy 1% + 3 counts- ACmV range: 600.0mV, 3% + 3 counts- DC Amps ranges: 4.000A, 10.00A, accuracy 1.5% +3 counts- AC Amps ranges: 4.000A, 10.00A, accuracy 1.5% +3 counts- Ohms ranges: 400.0Ω, 4.000kΩ, 40.00kΩ. 400.0kΩ, 4.000MΩ, 30.00MΩ, accuracy 0.5% + 2 or 3 counts, except 40MΩ range which is 1.5% +3 counts- Capacitance ranges: 50.00nF, 500.0nF, 5.000µF, 50.00µF, 500.0µF, 1000µF, accuracy 2% +5 counts on two lowest ranges, 5% +5 counts on all higher ranges- Frequency ranges: 50.00Hz, 500.0Hz, 5.000kHz, 50.00kHz, 100.0kHz, accuracy 0.1% + 3 counts- Duty Cycle: 1% ~ 99%, accuracy 1% typical- Diode Test range: 2.000V, accuracy 10%Some caveats:- My 107 came with a thick printed booklet that looked to be a multi-language user manual. In fact, it turned out to be simply a list of the usual “company covering their butt by cautioning the user against everything imaginable” items. There was no other kind of manual whatsoever; I called Fluke and they confirmed that this product does NOT come with a user manual in the box. Most of the operation is fairly intuitive, but some of the sub-features and modes would be more difficult to figure out without some kind of guidance from a user manual. At least the Fluke website allowed me to download a 32 page manual, and from the size of the pages, it looks like it was intended to be printed on booklet sized paper, rather than being printed on full size paper OR being only for reading on a screen. This begs the question of why such a manual/booklet was not included in the box.- The test leads are unfuriatingly ‘cheap’; not ‘unbranded Chinese $5 multimeter cheap’, but still much less than I associate with Fluke. The manual calls these TL175, but this number does not match the appearance of the TL175 listing on Fluke’s website; they appear to actually be the TL75 type. A much better test lead set would be the Fluke TL71 type, with their high-flexibility, high strand count, silicone rubber insulated wires and more comfortable probes; these cost about $45 on Amazon, and are worth every penny if you plan to use the meter a lot.- The “magnetic smart stand” that came with my meter had no mention in the user manual, so I was left to fiddle around with it and guess how it was supposed to be configured and used. Also, the slot in the top of the meter’s case where the Velcro part of the stand is supposed to slip through and wrap around, was too narrow to allow ready passage of the stand’s strap portion. I had to tug and wrestle with it to get it through; and doing that caused some of the faux leather to peel off. The part of the slot that the strap portion has to pass through and wrap around is too big in diameter for the length, so the Velcro pads on the strap cannot be aligned, and the best I can get with it is a slight overlap of the Velcro, making for a weak physical connection. It ‘just’ works, but it is clearly nor right. I suspect that Fluke did not design this “magnetic smart stand” with this model of meter in mind. There are some aftermarket equivalents to this stand, and I plan to investigate buying one of those.

Quick delivery and the best quality these fukes

This meter is great for a quick service bag kit. It will do everything you need it to as a low voltage service technician and it doesn’t take much space at all. Highly recommend this lightweight, easy to read screen!

This is a great option if you want to measure current but don't need a big professional meter. It's the cheapest Fluke model that will measure current. The size is in between the pocket meter and the big model 117. The magnetic strap/stand that comes with it is handy. Wait for a sale, I got a great deal on it. Definitely worth the money!Note: you do have to insert the probes into an outlet or touch wires/connectors directly to measure voltage or current. This is definitely not for the beginner and requires some electrical knowledge to use safely!

Was as described and shipped fast