The "Keystone" Jacket and Dress Cutter: An 1895 Guide to Women's Tailoring (Dover Fashion and Costumes)

TitlePreface to the dover editionPrefaceThe measuresDrafting the waist, Very clear and concise section on drafting the waist. I do however wish there were illustrations showing exactly what a waist was before making it up. The book does state that it is the basis on which all the close fitting garments in the book are based.Large form with the extra length of waistStout formErect Form : I really enjoyed the fact that the author included the different forms to get the maker off to a good start when drafting. Different forms do require slight changes in the drafting process.The Eton JacketThe Bolero or Zouave JacketThe Darts In the ForepartThe Dart for a Very Narrow FrontDarts for Small-waisted FormsLow-neck WaistJacketsJackets with Full SkirtsShort Jacket with Plaited SkirtCutaway JacketsCovert JacketCutaway Frock JacketRiding Jacket, Single-breastedShirt WaistsShirt Waist with YokeThe Plain SleeveChanges from the Plain SleeveLarge Sleeve HeadA Very Full SleeveSingle-breasted VestsDouble—breasted VestsCollarsBroad CollarsFull Round CollarThree-quarter CapePlain CapeWrap-shaped CapeThe UlsterDress SkirtsThe Full Dress SkirtRiding SkirtTrousersBreechesIllustrations from The DelineatorThe drafting information is admirable. My only criticisms of the book remains that, I think illustrations should have been given of each individual garment. The authors do include Illustrations from the Delineator to help see the finished product but the illustrations next to each drafting would have been better. Also, I wish a corset would have been included. An authentic corset from the time era will go along way in historical costume. Fabric should have been given a short section and there is no info on sewing. There is also no information on fitting and correct fitting errors. Even still-This book is a must have and I am happy to have it added to my library. Is it worth it? Yes I first got this book on kindle and after going through had to get the physical copy.

My book just arrived & I'll expand on my impressions after I actually use it, but, here goes!Firstly, it has tons of wonderful info! My hands are itching to get started. I plan to draft different upper sleeves, to rid myself of the mutten sleeves, for practical, daily use. I'll also shorten the skirts to ankle length. But I love this period & the clothing is gorgeous & I've NO one to go to tea parties with! Therefore, I shall wear what I like & enjoy the clothing as these awesome ladies, themselves, did!(Meanwhile, I have a 14th C Kyrtle to get going on!)Oh, you may need a sharp knife to open the pages. The cutter didn't always work.

Medium to advanced patterns as you must self draft. However, there’s no reason a first time projector couldn’t take the time to use this book.

The Keystone Jacket and Dress Cutter: An 1895 Guide to Women's Tailoring is not necessarily for beginners, but as an intermediate apparel sewer, I followed along easily. Just be aware that the book needs to be read as a whole to understand the process and if there is something you don't understand, I highly recommend googling it.

I haven't yet made any of the patterns in this book, but the instructions look to be very straightforward and simple to follow.I'd say that anyone with an understanding of pattern drafting would have no trouble using this book to create authentic period costumes.A few illustrations with each set of drafting instructions would be helpful (mainly so you know exactly what style you are working on), but all in all i think this is an excellent book for the price.

I really do love this book, however, I want to make others aware that there may be errors in the instructions for the item you are drafting. I am a long time sewer but first time at pattern drafting. I was drafting the sloper for a shirtwaist on pps 12-17. My first attempt using my measurements was not successful and being an advanced sewer knew there was something wrong with the measurements given in the directions. I made up a draft using their example measurements and came out with the totally same results as when I used my measurements. After reverse engineering the instructions I found on page 12. "0 to 9 is 1/3 of the breast, 6 inches," should be 1/6 of the breast, 12 inches. On p 13, "Place from E to F 1/6 of the breast measure..." should be 1/12. Also note that p 9 diagrams how to take the measures. The front of arm measure is shown as taking the measure from the spine to the underarm but on page 12 the front of arm measure given would be a full width of back, or underarm to underarm. So take your measure full width, it makes understanding the instructions in italics much easier to comprehend when trying to find on the scale of thirds. I have not attempted any other drafts as yet to see if there are other errors, just beware that if your draft isn't coming out right it might not be you.

As a seamstress interested in vintage clothing, I found this book very helpful. It would be possible to use this book to actually make patterns and clothing. Very interesting look back in history.

While the directions were rather complicated, a working knowledge of tailoring and pattern construction make this book usable, and it is an excellent reference for a wide variety of couture clothing.

The book has diagrams of patterns that you will need to draw to scale and then scale to your size. There are lots of patterns. I think I will start with a simple skirt to get to know how to draw out the patterns. Totally doable with a bit of patience and time. A great reference book for lots of historically accurate patterns.

I love dressmaking, I love maths, I love fabric, I have an analytical brain, so I love this book.

Brilliant book, helps modern sewing and pattern crafting. I recommend it to anyone who is interested making good quality garments that fit well.

I love this book! It's inspiring and great to flick through as part of my historic clothing book collection.

Very interesting designs, a bit of history. I wish some full size patterns were added but I understand this is for an experienced seamstress anyway.