Abatron LiquidWood Kit - 12 Ounce - 2-Part Structural Wood Epoxy Resin - Wood Hardener and Consolidant - Perfect Primer for WoodEpox Epoxy Wood Filler

Have been using this to seal charred wood for an art project and it works. Doesn't smell too bad and cures overnight.

seems to work as advertised

This product is the best wood repair product that I have ever used. I repaired rotted wood on an outside window, and a cracked wood plank on my outdoor deck. I purchased the woodepox and the other product called liquidwood as a kit. I strongly recommend that you buy this kit instead of just buying the woodepox alone. The woodepox is very thick and it is difficult to kneed the filler and the hardener but, if you add a small amount of the liquidwood product, you can make it to any consisteny. The bond is very strong. As a test, I applied a small amount of product to the ends of two pieces of 2 by 4's and let the sit for 24 hours. I cannot pull them apart!!! By the way, my repairs are now five months old, and they are still as good as new.

Good stuff to use on wood rot. Expensive.

I had to take 2 bathrooms and a bedroom to the dirt as I found mold in the wall between the three. I realized that there is no need to remove the wood but to just reinforce it with this wood epoxy. Now it is actually stronger than before and saves you LOTS of time!

I live in a1920’s bungalow in Florida & we had some BAD termite damage in about a 3’ long section of our hardwood floor. I ordered the liquid hardener & used it this weekend. The wood was tunneled out & spongy. I cleaned out as much as I could, followed the instructions & have now put almost the entire 24 ounces in the damaged area. Incredible as it basically soaked into to the damaged wood and sort of petrified the whole area. I’ve just ordered a whole kit with the wood filler to finish the job.I will try to update my review with pictures. Great stuff if you’re dealing with rot, also no VOCs! It smells & feels like honey. It’s just expensive although way less than trying to feather in hardwood pieces…

This is a joint review for LiquidWood and WoodEpox, since I bought both and used them together.First, some background: I own a kitchen table made from several strips of hardwood, with gaps between them of about 1/8". The gaps tend to collect crumbs, and there are also cracks in the wood going at an angle through a few of the pieces. I decided to refinish the table after filling in the gaps and cracks, and for some reason I decided an epoxy product would be the best option.First I bought WoodEpox, based on the many positive reviews. I mixed the two parts by rolling a small equal-sized ball of each, then kneading them together. It was very easy to mix, and I was able to color it easily with a liquid pigment (Mixol). The instructions advise you to use dry coloring, but I found the liquid to work fine. Unfortunately, filling in the cracks with WoodEpox was difficult. The material was very crumbly and it had very little adhesion, so it didn't want to stay in the cracks I was filling. Both parts have equal consistency, so there was no way I could add one part to make it 'stickier'.I decided it might be better to make the WoodEpox a little more liquidy by adding LiquidWood, which is recommended in the instructions. So I bought that product as well and used it to change the consistency of the WoodEpox. This ended up creating a sticky mess. It's quite difficult to measure and mix two separate two-part epoxies, then mix them together to get the consistency you want. My mixture ended up being quite sticky, and the only way to apply it was to use a putty knife. Cleaning up was a challenge and I was left with a lot of epoxy in places I didn't want it (on the table, not on my body, luckily!). Sanding off the excess was another chore, since the epoxy is pretty hard once it cures.My last effort was to try filling in the cracks by using only LiquidWood. This seemed to go well at first, since it was liquid enough to spread out and fill in the cracks all along their length. However, I found that it soaked into the surrounding wood, so the level kept sinking below the top of the table. I kept adding more to fill in the cracks up to the top, but it kept absorbing. After the liquid cured, none of the cracks were filled in up to the top.I kept using a combination of the WoodEpox and LiquidWood until I finally had most of the cracks filled in. I sanded the table for what seemed like forever to get it as flat as possible and to remove the excess epoxy, which unfortunately seemed to discolor the wood, even after it was sanded off. While the epoxy is quite hard, it didn't sand flat in the grooves, and it didn't really absorb the stain like the surrounding wood. My coloring with the liquid tint wasn't very consistent, so the grooves are now multiple colors.All in all, using these epoxies was a disaster for my project! After doing the main table with the epoxy, I took a different approach with the leaf and just used a simple wood filler, which was MUCH faster, cleaner, and easier. I suspect it will stain better as well.These epoxies may work well for some cases, but I don't recommend using them to fill in gaps and cracks in furniture.

I'm not a carpenter but my grandfather was. I picked up a ton of experience watching and working with him. That was long time ago when things were simpler and cheaper. Fast forward to today where things, specifically wood and labor are expensive, and Abatron has saved me a ton of money.We purchased a house that had termite damage. Prior to closing, the house was tented (fumigated) and the damaged wood was supposedly fixed. WISHFUL THINKING! I go to replace our master bedroom patio screen and noticed paint was bubbling nearby. A little more investigation and I noticed some semi-hollowed out spots on the door sill and vertical planks along with termite droppings.I went to work strengthening the wood with the Epoxy Consolidant and later filled in the displaced wood with the two-part epoxy wood filler.I've attached a few photos of the damaged spots, the wood consolidant applied, and the finished sanded vertical exterior beams. Bottom line, the whole system works and trust me, its as strong as the original wood and a bear to sand. Don't take the wrong way, that's a good thing. In my case, I used a random orbitol sander to get that smooth finish.I'll complete a more thorough write up and add a similar review under the two part wood epoxy so reviewers can see the results that can be attained with these products.I like to pass on to others items that work and save money, and this is definitely one of the better purchases I've made as far as home repair products.