Organic Laboratories 810-021 Lab QT Organocide Plant Doctor Systemic Fungicde

Works on Euonymus and mildew on boxwood

Superb fungus product for Crab Apple trees. They notoriously have this fungus. They are very unclear about how much or how to use this product. Here's what I do: pick your crab apple tree to treat. Mine was about 10-12 ft tall and about 10 ft. branch spread at lowest branches. I fill a 4 gallon bucket and add 1.5 oz. of Organoside I pour/spread around the tree. I do this twice twice for an even spread. So, 3 oz. in 8 gallons around tree. Either do just before rain or water-in after pouring it. This needs to be repeated in 14 to 25 day intervals. It is important to start as soon as spring growth begins. Continue until mid-August. We basically have saved our Crab Apple trees. The season the fungus started we lost all leaves by mid-August. After use , not until October last year.Update: Used 2021 season exactly as described above... virtually no fungus all summer 2021 and leaves were still on tree until end of October. So, trees were very hardy! This is now 3 years in a row and trees are doing great! I also use a cup of slow release 12-6-6 fertilizer 2x a season on each tree.

Wrks great on pm

I live in an area where numerous plants become beset with fungus each spring, Every year at the sight of the first contaminated leaf I apply this product and it "nips it in the bud" every time. I treat 7 Azaleas, 1 Rhododendron, 3 Camellias, Three Hawthorne bushes and 1 Anise (all very large bushes) and I go through 2 Qts. I tried to be cheap the first couple of years I dealt with it using various concoctions of soaps, ammonias and vinegars but it proved too time consuming and getting results took too long. Since then I use Organocide Plant Doctor Systemic Fungicide and its worth every penny.

Last year I was a little late applying this in May but it still did a great job controlling the apple scab on my Prairiefire crabapple tree. This year I treated April 10th at the "bud swell" stage so I have high hopes. I did a basal bark application, using jet dry for the surfactant (its the same thing as Pentra Bark and lots cheaper). I'll try to remember to report back in late June! Good product.

One thing that is true is it wipes out the fungus on the tomatoes. I did apply it twice in 2 weeks just to get ahead of it. Both applications damaged my leaves. The first time I used the max application because the fungus was gaining ground on me. The second time I cut back to about 3/4 of the recommended application. You have to definitely be careful with it. I applied early in the morning or later in the evening in each case.

I’ve tried a number of products over the years to control downey and powdery mildews on my squash, lilacs and grapes. This is the first to work. Copper, neem and chemicals didn’t work but this does and it works even after the infection begins.I sprayed after every heavy rainfall, once a week or so and it did great. I mixed in a one gallon sprayer. I missed spraying after one rain period and downey mildew broke out on my grape vine. I sprayed and it spread no more, the existing infection died! It also stopped the spread and cleared up some downey mildew on my lilacs.This is great stuff and it is a systematic fungicide, meaning, unlike copper, once the plant is infected, the spray will heal it.

I sprayed this as a pre-emergent on our roses (when they were just beginning to nub) and on the lilacs (same condition). Both had their strongest starts ever here in fungus-burdened Virginia. So when my apple trees started to nub, I sprayed them. Had a banner year for blossoms. I don't believe it was the weather, because summer and winter have taken one-day turns confusing the bejeezus out of our plants. I'm supposed to hit them again next month, and then leave them be. Results in the early going have been outstanding.