WayneRPP50 Cast Iron Sewage Pump with Piggy Back Tether Float Switch, Black

Had to replace a 22-year old completely dead [Barnes] pump, servicing only one basement bathroom; check valve probably not working for last 10-years. Obviously this was/is a messy job (likely the reason for the common recommendation to replace every 10 years or so - BEFORE it completely dies).Once the old pump & parts were out of the way, the new install of this Wayne pump was very easy. Installed along with a "Campbell Mfg Llc 2" Quietsewage Check Valve", which is a very good piece of equipment by the way, much better than a rubber-flapper-style.With everything installed and plugged-in an initial test run went great. I am satisfied with this product and expect it to last a long time, as a solid iron pump should (when used correctly - stick to waste only and stay away from anything that could block the impeller or get stuck in the check valve).DIY'er PUMP NOTES -- You need a 2" threaded adapter to attach the pump to whatever length of 2" PVC required.-- Also consider buying some extra length of tube and a coupling adapter or two... just in case. This is not a stop-in-the-middle-of-it job!- Make certain the float switch can do its job freely, with plenty of room away from any obstacle.- If using the Check Valve referenced above, be sure to measure a few times; dry fit. There is very little room for error vs rubber/metal couplings, since the use of PVC cement is required (i.e. no chance for adjustment after 10 seconds).- Having a WetVac nearby is a good idea too, even if only replacing a check valve (if it is working there is quite a bit of water above it..).- Ensure proper pump / float switch operation, prior to caulking and bolting everything down

I bought this item to put in a sewage basin in the basement of my home. After installing, it works perfectly!I have an unfinished basement that I will be finishing soon. It was already plumbed for a bathroom with a shower and the furnace room drains into the sewage basin as well. I wanted to make sure that basin was taken care of by a working sewage pump before installing the bathroom or finishing the basement to run into problems later with overflow or anything else.I cannot speak to the longevity of the product as I have only had it installed for a week. However upon installing I filled and drained the entire basin and the pump was very quiet. I could hardly hear it. I know some people say it's loud but that was not the case in my experience. The only time it was loud was when I operated the pump without the float switch and it had drained all of the water and was just spinning without any water to eject (for only a couple seconds, before I shut it off). It has a rise of about 8' with 2 45 degree bends to reach the main drain line. I opted for the 45 degree elbows to make it just a little bit easier on the pump (as water always seeks the easiest route and a 45 degree turn is easier than a 90 degree turn.) I also have a "Campbell Mfg Llc 2" Quietsewage Chk Valve B-0823-20C" installed with it that works great to prevent the backflow. When in operation , it doesn't seem to stress at all with my setup.Overall a great pump, I will update this review after a while of operation, especially if any problems arise, but I am not expecting any problems.

I installed this in my basement laundry pit as the old original was there since the house was built. Excellent quality and quick shipping for a hard to find item. Local big box retailers only sell one brand, however on Amazon, you have your choice of every brand. One thing however, I did have to modify the float because my pit was for a laundry by simply making it shorter, no big deal. It works just fine and is nice and quiet as I've insulated the top and build a closet around it so you can't hear anything. Would highly recommend for anyone in need of a replacement. Oh one last thing, do get the cover from the same manufacturer as mine was rusty and old. With a simple saw you can create as many openings for the pvc pipes and electrical cords as needed. That cover also comes with the rubber grommets which are not sold in stores either.Update 4/01 - Ordered this sewage pump for my parents basement. Its more powerful than their useless sump pump. Item arrived on time and just in time before the rains came in. Highly recommended for any basement application!

Had to replace a waterfall pump in my 30 foot diameter pond. The four year old Barnes (Crane) SE-411 sewer pump was pulling over 20 amps on startup, tripping a 20 amp GFIC, which was an indication that the bearings were probably worn allowing so much play that the rotor was rubbing on the stator, making lots of noise the past 4 months. I have had my pond for over 15 years, and every 2-3 years or so, would have to buy a new Barnes SE-411. My duty cycle on the pump is 1 hour a day, 365 days a year. After looking around the internet and local plumbing suppliers, a new Barnes SE-411 (.4 HP, 1750 RPM, 120 volt, 2" outlet) was going to cost over $460 including shipping, so I looked for a less expensive alternative.The Wayne RPP50 is .5 HP and had a slightly lower flow at 5700 GPH vs. my old Barnes which was about 6000 GPH. The installation was almost a perfect replacement, except the power cord was 10 feet vs. 15 feet on the Barnes. Had to reroute the cord for a more direct run to my timer switch. The Wayne comes with a float switch which is not connected directly or internally to the pump body, but is a float switch and cord with a plug for the main power cord. I removed the small clamp and screw from the float switch cord and tossed it. This pump runs quieter than a new Barnes, and there is no difference in the waterfall flow that I can detect.Update: 07/06/17 It's been installed for a week. No problems. Will update if I have problems. Great price ($135 on Prime) vs. $460 on a new Barnes SE-411.Update 04/07/19: Pump failed causing my 20 amp GFIC outlet to trip, so got a little less than 2 years use with 2 hours a day operation. Similar to other pumps regardless of price! Will buy another today!