Varilight JQP252W V-Pro White 2 Gang LED Trailing Edge Dimmer Switch 1 or 2 Way

I bought this dimmer switch to control 6 Philips Master LED 6W candle bulbs on one switch (gang, 36W total) and 2 old 25W tungsten lights on the second gang. It works fine with no flicker with the LEDs. Tungsten no problem as you'd expect. I researched this a bit as I read not all dimmers work with all types of LEDs and this one gives three modes. By default it is "trailing edge" (mode 1) which I assume is to do with the shape of the electric waveform that is produced and the waveform should be compatible with the lights. This works with the Philips LEDs. I found dimming kicked in during the last two-thirds of the rotation and the lights were still glowing dimly turned right down.I tried "mode 2". (the instructions don't say if this is "leading edge"). This also worked, tho it had the effect of the dimming kicking in earlier in rotation and the lights were completely turned down before the last quarter turn. I reset it to mode 1 as I preferred a small amount of light when it was turned right down. I could have got mode 2 to leave some light output too - as the switch allows you to alter the minimum brightness (yet another configuration thing). I didn't bother exploring mode 3.You put the switch into configuration mode by switching the lights on and off three times. After that rotation of the switch allows you to set the mode.It has "soft start". Meaning your lights gently ramp up to the set output over a couple of seconds. Neat.It is silent. I can't hear it at all with my ear right up to it, either with just the LED lights on and dimmed, or just the tungsten lights on and dimmed.Job done. Happy. Hope it lasts well.PS In case you were thinking about it I read somewhere you should not mix light types on a single switch. In my case the two types of bulb are on the two separate switches so no problem.

The dimmer works, but (using Crompton dimmable LED lamps) there is too much flickering even at quite high illumination levels and it's not usable at very low levels. The electrical installation is comparable to any light switch, but programming is tedious, because it relies on fiddly button-pushing and knob-twiddling, and the dimmer communicates back by light flashing. I guess this is unavoidable without a more complex interface, however, and actually, I ended up using the default settings in the end anyway. Tried to get rid of flickering, but none of the three drive modes seemed to improve this. I've ordered some Philips LEDs to see if this combo works better, but swapping LEDs is not cheap, of course. Update - with Philips MAS LEDs, there is no flickering, and the light is a much warmer (tungsten-like) tone when dimmed. YMMV

I have 25 down lights in my large kitchen/diner so obviously 25 GU10 halogen bulbs at 50 watts each costs a small fortune to operate. I decided to replace all my halogen bulbs (and all my other bulbs in my house for that matter) for decent DIMMABLE LED bulbs. They must be stated as dimmable! Each GU10 bulb in my kitchen/diner is now only 4 watts each and they are a perfect replacement for my 50 watt halogens. This is a total change from 1250 watts down to just 100 watts. Go figure....Anyway, as lovely as the lighting is, I wanted to create some "mood lighting" as 25 bulbs is pretty bright, especially if you host a party or just want a lower level of light for the evenings. I have 15 bulbs on one switch over the diner area and 10 on the other switch over the kitchen area. Out came my existing standard double switch and I wired this switch in exactly the same way my old switch was wired. It works fantastically! The dimming function works perfectly on both sets of lights (15 bulbs on one switch, 10 on the other- remember my LED bulbs are 4 watts each) and there is no flickering or buzzing even on the lowest dim. The push clicker to turn the lights on and off gives a satisfactory click and "feel" which is important to me. I had previously bought a more expensive LED dimmer switch of eBay for more money but returned it as the clicker was rubbish, plus the switch made a slight buzz when dimmed.All in all, a great switch but I would recommend that you buy good quality dimmable LEDS bulbs to be on the safe side. I get mine from a website called "LED Hut" which I highly recommend. Also, my LED bulbs are "day light" colour.

I read a lot of reviews and worried about buying the wrong dimmer, buzzing, what bulbs to buy. I can confirm all is good! Read on...My electrician fitted it. I’m fine with changing light switches and don’t think this would have been difficult, but he was also doing the new light fittings too, so left it to him.There is no buzzing. Great!When switched on there is a slight delay. Don’t let that worry you unless you’re ultra impatient! I think it’s to do with the various programming modes it supports and I guess recalls as it’s turned on. The guide goes into detail about this, but mine’s set as defaults and works as you’d expect.The dimmer control isn’t that linear, more of a curve. The light doesn’t dimm equally as you rotate the switch. I think this is a LED thing and completely normal. You have to turn it down a little more than you’d expect to lower the brightness. Turn it down too quickly and you might go past where you want it set, so just turn it back up a little.It fine, really! I’m glad it all works and there is no buzz.The bulbs I bought to go with it were:Topleder E14 LED candle c35 dimmerable. No probs with these.

Had to replace my original dimmer when I switched from halogens to LEDs. This is a tad expensive and needs programming to get the appropriate dimming range. The programming did not work when I followed the instructions, but eventually it worked. It still does not dim down as far as I would like on the LEDs though. Only one of the 2 gangs is operating LEDs, the other light fitting is still using halogens, and I managed to program that one to dimn all the way down.