Nelson Simple Soaker Flower Watering Sprinkler with 50-Foot Tubing

WOW I am so blessed to be led to these. I just have a row of rose bushes, and no irrigation for them. It is to dang hot in Phoenix to be out there watering. I was very impressed with how simple the install went, the hardest part was digging a small narrow hole for the sprinkler. The directions indicate I should just push the pointed end into the soil but that is not happening in my yard, so a little digging was required in my case. Otherwise, simple and effective. Nothing leaked or dripped where it should not. These can each be separately set to spray anywhere from the full 12 feet to just a bubble drip, a great feature. I used this timer too, a 1-2 combo for relief from hose watering in the sun Orbit Single Outlet Programmable Hose Faucet Timer, Standard Packaging. Here's how the install will go, so you can decide if it's a task you are up to completing:I recommend that you look at one sprinkler unit before starting so you can see how the hose will run through it. And, of course, read the directions first! Also have a brick or heavy book or something to hold down one end of the hose while you work is nice not required.When ready to install, decide a pattern of where you want to place each of the sprinklers (from 2 to 5 of them) and where you want the hose to be laid to connect them from the faucet to the last sprinkler to be used.Attach the hose to the faucet (or to another hose that is attached to the faucet) and lay the hose out where you want watered according to your pattern. There is a piece capping off the end of the hose, so you don't worry about the end, just where you want the water to go. (The end cap will easily screw off, allowing water to drain out if needed.)Next, according to your pattern, bury each sprinkler's pointed end in the ground, about 4-5 inches deep. Be sure to have them at least 1 foot apart and firmly planted. Also, make sure the holes in the sprinkler where the hose will run through are all pointed in the right direction for the hose to make its continuous journey in the pattern you have chosen. Mine were in a straight line, but you may have a winding path. You don't want one buried and facing the wrong way when you go to the next step.Now, one sprinkler at a time, unscrew the top from the sprinkler. Then simply lay the hose in the center - you will see a slot for it - and push it gently into place. Holding the sprinkler bottom firmly with one hand, push down while twisting the top back on with other hand. Be sure to line up the top to the bottom slot correctly - as you turn and press down, a sharp metal piece will pierce a hole in the hose exactly where it needs to be to allow water to come out of the sprinkler. Genius! Go on to the next until all are established.Now turn on the faucet, with the water pressure up pretty high (or full on). When it comes out strongly from the sprinklers, one by one twist the small head on top of each sprinkler to raise or lower each sprinkler's pressure. Just a simple twist of the knob and the water pressure changes! I found that my house pressure did not stay consistent at first, so let them run a while and see how they go. You may need to tweak the pressure a bit.Now you can use the supplied long hooks (tubing hold down stakes) to hold down the hose if needed, or to make the sprinkler tilted a bit one way or other. The risers are short posts that can be buried instead of the sprinkler to raise them up even higher if you need that feature. I am not sure what the other parts are for (goof plugs) but if you need them there they are.

The product works like a champ. Easy to install (NO tools needed) in a max of 30 minutes. Works perfectly at 360 or 180 degree spray. Distance of spray adjusts nicely (fine spray, by the way) - distance of spray is about 12 ft diameter circle at max. With splitters, timers, and other "add ons" you can cover almost any shape planting area for any length of time at any time of the day!! Definitely conserves water and effectively directs the water. Two suggestions - 1) follow directions and lay tubing in the sun to soften before working with it if you can and 2) wear a bathing suit so you can adjust everything without having to run back and forth to the faucet to turn it on and off.

I use this system for watering an irregularly shaped lawn that tends to be long, narrow and winding. It is the best solution I have found over a period of ten years (short of a fully automated sprinkler system.)However, the product's lifetime is relatively short.Contributing to its short life is handling the system frequently.Here are some tips to handling the system:An abundance of caution is recommended in order to extend its lifetime.The hose tends to retain its rolled shape and will never totally straighten: This makes it just a little cumbersome for relocating (I typically use one system and relocate it 5 times to water the lawn with a watering routine lasting 6-8 months and watering can be 1-3 times a week.)When relocating the system I collect it up in a larger roll that can be hand carried. Try to avoid the 'folding' or 'creasing' near the sprinkler heads. This is not life ending, but it does contribute to a shorter lifetime. When removing the sprinklers from the ground reach underneath the sprinkler base and pull it up by the sprinkler head--do not use the hose to pull it out of the ground. It is advisable to not drag the system across the landscaping, because this tends to loosen or lose the sprinkler caps along the way (the caps are adjustable and may not stay on the threads.) A loose sprinkler cap may go flying when you turn the water on and may be lost forever. Also one may lose the rubber gasket in the hose connection. It also helps to not step on the hose.When relocating the sprinkler heads along the tube, the plugs provided have been both adequate and troublesome. A poorly seated plug will result in a worse leak over time. I've used duct tape to wrap around the troublesome spots in order to extend the lifetime of the unit,The ground spikes tend to break off: I have a clay based soil. I user a large screwdriver to first create a hole to place the spike in. A hole too deep may also allow the sprinkler head to tip when the ground gets wet.I've tried basic sprinklers: Soaker hoses, in-line sled sprinklers, adjustable impact/rotor sprinklers, adjustable and fixed spray sprinklers, and oscillating systems.I have owned two units of this system previously (I'm now on my third) and the lifetime for my usage has been 3-4 years.I would like to see some improvements in the system, but it still remains the best solution (short of a fully automated sprinkler system) for my application.

We bought two sets to water new flowerbeds and trees in our back yard. After installing them the day they came (only took about and hour and 1/2 for both systems) I ordered two more for my front and side flower beds. The black hose is easy to hide, the coverage is excellent and easily controlled using the adjustable nozzle heads and snap-on nozzle adapters. The risers that come with it can be stacked (I have a set of old steps against our fence and the flowers on the back row are tall) to water hard to reach plants.I have a 4-way hose splitter on our faucet with a timer, saving a ton of time, water and money.Tips:1) Before installation, "unwind" the hose and lay it in the sun. This makes it far more pliable and easier to lay out as needed. 2) Be careful when using the hooked stakes to hold the hose down where needed. They can easily puncture the hose (this can be fixed, though, as the kit comes with "goof plugs".I highly recommend this sprinkler system. The bid I got to install professionally was over $2,000, which 4 of these kits covers ($130), and, in my opinion, is just as effective.