--- product_id: 865971 title: "Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor" brand: "wagner" price: "9769592₫" currency: VND in_stock: true reviews_count: 13 category: "Wagner" url: https://www.desertcart.vn/products/865971-spraytech-0518080-control-spray-max-corded-hvlp-paint-sprayer-120 store_origin: VN region: Vietnam --- # 510W power for consistent spray HVLP tech for smooth, low-overspray finish 20 ft hose for extended reach & less fatigue Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor **Brand:** wagner **Price:** 9769592₫ **Availability:** ✅ In Stock ## Summary > 🎨 Elevate your DIY game with pro-level precision and speed! ## Quick Answers - **What is this?** Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor by wagner - **How much does it cost?** 9769592₫ with free shipping - **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship - **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.vn](https://www.desertcart.vn/products/865971-spraytech-0518080-control-spray-max-corded-hvlp-paint-sprayer-120) ## Best For - wagner enthusiasts ## Why This Product - Trusted wagner brand quality - Free international shipping included - Worldwide delivery with tracking - 15-day hassle-free returns ## Key Features - • **Customizable Spray Patterns:** Switch between round, horizontal, or vertical spray for ultimate project flexibility - • **Pro-Grade Accessories Included:** Comes with metal & plastic cups plus cleaning kit for seamless setup & maintenance - • **Versatile Material Compatibility:** Sprays latex paints, stains, polyurethanes & primers effortlessly - • **Precision Control at Your Fingertips:** Adjustable pressure & flow dial for flawless finishes every time - • **Ergonomic Design for Marathon Projects:** Stationary base + 20 ft hose reduces arm strain and boosts productivity ## Overview The Wagner Control Spray Max HVLP Paint Sprayer delivers professional-grade finishes with its powerful 510W motor and high volume, low pressure technology. Featuring a 20-foot hose for extended reach and adjustable pressure and flow controls, it handles a wide range of materials including latex paints, stains, and primers. Designed to reduce fatigue with a stationary base and versatile spray patterns, it’s perfect for millennial managers who demand efficiency, quality, and ease in their home improvement projects. ## Description Product Description The Control Spray Max provides a smooth, consistent finish in less time than traditional painting methods. The controls give you the ability to adjust based on the project you’re working on and the type of material being used, which are features that a spray can or brush can’t offer! The spray patterns range from 1/2" to 12" wide depending on the settings, which allow for optimum control and precision for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray. Package includes a Control Max sprayer, 1 qt. metal cup, 1.5 qt. plastic cup, 20 ft. hose, viscosity cup and user manual. Please reference owner's manual for tips, troubleshooting and thinning guidelines. From the Manufacturer The Control Spray Max sprays materials in patterns from 1/2" to 12" wide with optimum control and precision making it superior to brushes and spray cans for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray. Review: Great Sprayer for the DIYer - I bought this quite awhile back (a little over a year ago), so I have used this item a lot. I now have a more expensive (10X the cost) HVLP rig, but I have found that this little Wagner gun is so MUCH more VERSATILE and EASIER to use, that I use this one more often than the expensive one. I can spray oil-based paints and primers, as well as water-based products, with hardly any effort. Cleaning up is fast and easy, too. You CAN get a 100% perfect, professional finish IF you take your time, read and re-read the manual, and you practice with it, first. Do not expect to pull it out of the box, fill it, spray with it, and have perfect results. I suggest that you gather lots of cardboard and buy a can (quart or gallon) of cheap paint (the same type as your first project requires (water- or oil-based)). Then, buy the appropriate diluent (read the paint can), the compatible additive (i.e., Penetrol for oil-based paints and Floetrol for water-based paints). While you're at the paint store (or you are on desertcart.com) pick up some medium size (pertaining to particle filtration size, not overall size) disposable paint filters. My two spray painting mantras are, "Practice does make perfect!" and "Paint additives can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD between a professional-looking paint job, and just an awful looking paint job!" That's it in a nutshell, but I've written at length about the first time I used this sprayer. If what I learned can help you get great results on your first project, it may be worth the time it takes to read: My first project was not the smartest one to choose as a first project to paint with a spray gun. It was the wainscoting and trim in my dining room. But, it came out so perfect, that even after a year, the glassy, smooth, sprayed surfaces still impresses me so much, I cannot believe I did them! But, back then, I didn't know any better, so I thought I would just start right in with the painting, buying the exact same paint and color (Sherwin Williams Alkyd) the installers had used. I lightly sanded all of the wainscoting and trim, as best I could, to scuff up the surfaces. I also used a liquid deglosser, since sanding detailed trim is thankless, tedious work. But, most of all, I spent a lot of time caulking (using PAINTABLE caulk) areas that had pulled apart from "settling," or that were not properly caulked by the installers in the first place. I let the caulk dry thoroughly. Actually, it was all the cracks and crevices in the joined edges of the woodwork caused by improper (or complete lack of) caulking, and some due to settling, that had caused the need to paint the trim and wainscotting. Next, I started in with the viscosity tests. I used paint thinner first, but then I read up on additives. So, I switched to using a combination of paint thinner and Penetrol (by Flood, purchased at Lowes). I can't recall the exact ratio of paint thinner to Penetrol I ended up using, but I think it would be safe to say about half and half. Of course, paint thinner was what my product called for as a thinning agent. Paint additives, like Floetrol and Penetrol, help produce a smooth, glassy finish. The additives can help make up for a multitude of sins! For example, if you did not properly adjust your air/paint flow, you could end up with a painted surface that has an orange peel texture (a common problem). If it's not too bad, the additives themselves can make that problem completely disappear! But, that's not too surprising, because one of their purposes is to reduce, or eliminate, brush marks! Once I had all of my paint thinner and Penetrol added in order to achieve an acceptable viscosity test, I was alarmed at how much I had diluted the paint! I had definitely diluted it beyond what the manufacturer had recommended (as stated on the can). Thankfully, I was worried enough that I decided to practice on some cardboard, rather than on the dining room walls, first, as I had planned on doing after reading all of the positive reviews here, thinking I could just spray the walls and get great results! And, although it didn't take long before I was able to get a nice, smooth coating on the cardboard, I am really thankful I did! I would have been scraping and sanding walls, for sure! I also stood the cardboard up vertically, like the surface I would be spraying (vertical surfaces are much harder to spray without getting drips and runs), so I could get a feel for how much paint I could apply before getting runs. It wasn't very much! I had to keep the gun moving relatively quickly. But, by then, I had to send my husband back to Sherwin-Williams for another can of paint, just to be sure I would have enough paint! Before getting to the viscosity tests, though, I had basically turned my dining room into a giant spray booth, but without an explosion-proof fan mounted in the window! I covered the windows, ceiling, and upper walls with plastic, masking off all of the edges. I also taped plastic over the two doorways, masking around all of the edges of EVERYTHING. I used thick plastic drop cloths on the floor, but I goofed by not taping them down as securely as I should have. So, I had to stop and do some clean-up and remedial taping when I saw that the air coming out of the nozzle was blowing up the edges of the plastic! Naturally, I used a respirator, and was covered head-to-toe in disposable painting attire. The air was thick with paint mist when I did paint. But, I expected that in the enclosed space. I put on a total of four coats, as I thought with all of the diluting, they would be thin coats. They were, but I wouldn't say that was a bad thing! I don't own a mill gauge (something I just recently learned about!), so I couldn't tell you how thick each coat was, but they were thick enough to cover bare wood without being transparent enough to see the wood grain show through, but not so thick that it would cause runs or drips. I always sprayed a small piece of cardboard, leaving it in the dining room, but near the opening, so I could easily check when the paint was dry enough to recoat, without touching the trim or walls themselves. It dried much quicker than I had anticipated, given all of the dilution. I did get a couple of runs, but I just sanded them off when the paint had dried enough to produce a powder when sanded, and not rub or rip. Of course, I sprayed these areas again. Even with the massive amount of prep work required (most of it would have still been required if I was brushing-on the paint, such as all of the caulking), the amount of time It took to spray, clean-up, dry, spray, clean-up, etc., was only a fraction of that time that would have been required for me to brush on all of the coats! The results were, as I said, spectacular. Today, the wainscoting and trim still look as fantastic as they did the day II had finished painting them. I was worried the dilution of the paint would have affected the wear or appearance of the surfaces, but it did not. So, I would never be afraid to dilute paint more than stated by the manufacturer on the can. Not being a paint professional, I do not know how they arrive at those figures, but for myself, I would always dilute the product according to what is recommended in the sprayer manual (using viscosity cup and timing the flow), and not what is stated on the can. But, I always read the can of the product I am using, because it tells me what to use in order to thin the product (the diluent). For oil-based PRIMERS, I use only the recommended diluent or solvent, and I omit the additive (Penetrol). To date, I have not used water-based PRIMERS, but I would probably only use distilled water for the diluent (unless the can stated to use another type of diluent, that isn't water). A shellac-based PRIMER would probably call for denatured alcohol as the diluent. Again, always defer to the can/manufacturer for the diluent to use, but defer to the sprayer manual for the proper dilution rate (using the viscosity cup). For water-based paints, I use a mixture of one part distilled water and one part Floetrol (50-50) to dilute the paint. I also use a medium filter for all paints and primers, and it is the last thing I do before I spray paint. Disposable filters are cheap, so I use a fresh, new filter when I fill or refill my sprayer cup. If I fill the cup three times during a project, I've used three filters. I always gather some cardboard to use to warm-up on, and, most importantly, to help me fine-tune the settings on the sprayer, so that I achieve the best finish possible. If your paint is properly diluted, and your spray is properly adjusted, I just don't think you will be ever be unhappy with the results. Thoroughly cleaning up your equipment as soon as you are finished painting is also extremely important. If you have a tiny, dried, speck of paint in the nozzle, you will not get good results. I have found those really thick pipe cleaners (oh, excuse me, I mean CHENILLE STEMS) are invaluable as an aid to cleaning out the inside of the slanted plastic tube that is inserted into the paint cup. Some other tips I've learned include spray painting early in the morning, when there is less likely to be a breeze, if I am painting something outside. Avoid spraying in direct sunlight, too. Finally, if there is a result that is not to your liking, Google it to find a solution to the problem. I have learned so much from doing this, and watching Youtube videos, too. If all else fails, call the manufacturer because there is always a small chance you could have a defective part that needs to be replaced. Dilute and practice with your cheap practice paint. If you can achieve a great finish on your cardboard (make sure the cardboard has a smooth surface to begin with, too!) using your cheap paint, you will surely be able to get an amazing finish with your higher quality paints and finishes. Review: I went ahead and purchased it and it's one of the BEST purchases I have made - I have had the unit for a month now and have used it for its intended purpose, to paint my kitchen cabinets. I read all the comments here and took all of them to heart, as desertcart buyers always give the most helpful remarks. I was hesitant, and a bit apprehensive, as the only spray painting I had ever done was in a can. A home DIY'r to the max, this was new to me. I went ahead and purchased it and it's one of the BEST purchases I have made! Here's some methods I used. Using Behr Ultra latex paint and primer, what worked best for me was adding just 1 cup of water to the entire gallon, and I don't really think I needed to, as straight from the can, the sprayer did very well. I just wanted to extend the paint a bit and make it a bit thinner. I set up a "paint booth" on an enclosed porch with lots of windows, started with one cabinet and took off the doors, everything out of the drawers, etc. By the time I got one section done, I was painting in the kitchen, leaving the doors on and just masking off the insides. The sprayer worked that accurately for me. Once you play with the settings, you can be very accurate as to where the paint goes, with little overspray. I used cheap, $1.00 red poster board, as the paint was white and I could get the best idea of how the paint would go on. I cut the posterboard to the size of the inside of the cabinets, (I did not need to paint the insides), taped it and voila..done in a jiffy! I also used the posterboard, held in one hand behind the doors, while painting with the other hand so no overspray would go anywhere but on the doors. I have the air set as a bit less than medium and painted about two-three inches away from the cabinets. l did used plastic to cover the counters, tv, etc., and did get a bit of overspray on a window, but nothing big and it came right off. My bad..I got much better after this! I painted three coats per "section" (we have a large kitchen), and then two coats of poly the next day..the poly required much less air, but went on perfectly. I did not thin that at all. I took my time, let the coats dry 11/2 hours in between, and they came out beautiful! One thing I had going for me is that we are having a new floor installed, so I didn't obsess about getting any overspray on the floor at the bottom of the cabinets, which isn't much. This machine will work wonderfully for you, take your time, experiment with it, posterboard is great to use in a contrasting color with painters tape. Keep a paint brush around, in case you see some drips so you can blend in. If I had any poly drips, I used the paint brush that had white paint on it and it blended perfectly! Can't wait for summer to get here...Spring, even, so I can move out to refinish the decks. BTW, very, very easy to clean, much quicker than trays, brushes, etc. I highly recommend the Wagner HVLP sprayer! Make sure you have windows open and wear a mask the 3M07192 is great for this. Have fun and Good Luck! Before and after pics ## Features - HVLP PAINT SPRAYER: The Control Spray Max paint sprayer uses high volume, low pressure technology to atomize materials into fine particles and provide a smooth finish on door trim, decks, furniture, more - USE WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS: Powerful two-stage turbine makes it easy to paint walls and surfaces with thinned latex paints and thinner materials like stains and poly - ADJUSTABLE SETTINGS: Customize your paint flow by using the pressure control dial and material flow adjuster to receive the perfect finish every time. Turn the air cap to spray round, horizontal, or vertical - GREAT DESIGN: The stationary base is connected to the spray gun with a 20 ft. hose to easily reach your painting project and reduce hand fatigue. Also includes a 1 ½ qt. cup and professional grade metal 1 qt. cup ## Technical Specifications | Specification | Value | |---------------|-------| | ASIN | B003PGQI48 | | Best Sellers Rank | #60,181 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #133 in Power Paint & HVLP Sprayers | | Brand | Wagner | | Brand Name | Wagner | | Color | Yellow/Black | | Customer Reviews | 4.3 out of 5 stars 4,019 Reviews | | Global Trade Identification Number | 00024964194964, 10024964194961 | | Hose Length | 240 Inches | | Included Components | 20 ft. Hose, Cleaning Kit, Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer, Instruction Guide, Metal Cup, Nozzle, Plastic Cup | | Item Dimensions W x H | 12"W x 18.5"H | | Item Type Name | HVLP Stain Sprayer | | Item Weight | 5.1 Kilograms | | Manufacturer | Wagner Spraytech | | Manufacturer Part Number | Control Spray Max | | Manufacturer Warranty Description | 1 Year | | Material | Metal, Plastic | | Material Type | Metal, Plastic | | Maximum Pressure | 2.63 Pound per Square Inch | | Model Name | Control Spray | | Model Number | 0518080 | | Power Source | AC/DC | | Recommended Uses For Product | 20 ft. hose, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control Recommended Uses For Product 20 ft. hose, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control See more | | Style Name | HVLP Stain Sprayer | | Tank Volume | 1.5 Quarts | | UPC | 172304346044 872182815730 080850317329 100177418544 021112826692 763615760683 716080067405 072080017353 024964194964 051020034193 752913147326 651256045354 191120025209 151902999838 351428773442 803982727404 172302816594 | | Unit Count | 1.0 Count | ## Product Details - **Brand:** Wagner - **Color:** Yellow/Black - **Material:** Metal, Plastic - **Tank Volume:** 1.5 Quarts ## Images ![Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/617w+UqSBzL.jpg) ![Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81yz-lVY0yL.jpg) ![Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71U8nDmY1-L.jpg) ![Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81rztU2YOCL.jpg) ![Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81IaLV8k+OL.jpg) ## Questions & Answers **Q: Has anyone use it as a Spray tan system?** A: I have. The turbine has similar specs (i.e. correct pressure and airflow) to some other HVLP spray tanning systems; however, for me the cup size was too large and spray pattern on the included nozzle made it difficult to not overspray. I purchased a wagner "spray tan cartridge attatchment" aka "Wagner Detail Front End Kit" (ASIN B00FDZDO32). It works ok but the cup size is still fairly large and tended to overspray . I have since replaced that gun with a "Maxi-Mist Spray Tanning Gun Replacement Lightweight" ($35 on ebay) and am happy with the results even though I had to adapt the hose to fit. Maxi-mist's MaxiMist™ Evolution TNT Spray Tanning System looks like the wagner painted all black and I wonder if the front end gun ($50) is compatible. I don't use this professionally but can say its works, especially with a purpose made gun. I got best results with the pressure set just above minimum. **Q: can this be used for oil base paints?** A: Yes. Cleaning oil-based primer took forever to clean because you must use mineral spirits and be sure to get every bit of it off the interior parts. Cleaning latex-based primer and paint out of the sprayer with soapy water was much easier but still time-consuming, especially since I tried to get every bit of primer/paint off the outside of the sprayer and pump in case I want to sell it if we ever finish the kitchen-painting project. I am an almost elderly homemaker, amateur painter, and I was able to use it successfully. **Q: Do I need an air compressor for this? Or is this a stand alone tool?** A: The base unit has a blower or low-pressure compressor built in, no external compressor required. Make sure the base is sitting where it will pull in clean air, no dust or debris. **Q: Does this sprayer work on ceilings?** A: It'll work. I wouldn't though. It has a 3-4 inch spray pattern which requires several passes for an adequate coat. Would take several hours for a 10x10 ceiling. Rollering will be 5x faster. ## Customer Reviews ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great Sprayer for the DIYer *by M***S on September 26, 2013* I bought this quite awhile back (a little over a year ago), so I have used this item a lot. I now have a more expensive (10X the cost) HVLP rig, but I have found that this little Wagner gun is so MUCH more VERSATILE and EASIER to use, that I use this one more often than the expensive one. I can spray oil-based paints and primers, as well as water-based products, with hardly any effort. Cleaning up is fast and easy, too. You CAN get a 100% perfect, professional finish IF you take your time, read and re-read the manual, and you practice with it, first. Do not expect to pull it out of the box, fill it, spray with it, and have perfect results. I suggest that you gather lots of cardboard and buy a can (quart or gallon) of cheap paint (the same type as your first project requires (water- or oil-based)). Then, buy the appropriate diluent (read the paint can), the compatible additive (i.e., Penetrol for oil-based paints and Floetrol for water-based paints). While you're at the paint store (or you are on Amazon.com) pick up some medium size (pertaining to particle filtration size, not overall size) disposable paint filters. My two spray painting mantras are, "Practice does make perfect!" and "Paint additives can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD between a professional-looking paint job, and just an awful looking paint job!" That's it in a nutshell, but I've written at length about the first time I used this sprayer. If what I learned can help you get great results on your first project, it may be worth the time it takes to read: My first project was not the smartest one to choose as a first project to paint with a spray gun. It was the wainscoting and trim in my dining room. But, it came out so perfect, that even after a year, the glassy, smooth, sprayed surfaces still impresses me so much, I cannot believe I did them! But, back then, I didn't know any better, so I thought I would just start right in with the painting, buying the exact same paint and color (Sherwin Williams Alkyd) the installers had used. I lightly sanded all of the wainscoting and trim, as best I could, to scuff up the surfaces. I also used a liquid deglosser, since sanding detailed trim is thankless, tedious work. But, most of all, I spent a lot of time caulking (using PAINTABLE caulk) areas that had pulled apart from "settling," or that were not properly caulked by the installers in the first place. I let the caulk dry thoroughly. Actually, it was all the cracks and crevices in the joined edges of the woodwork caused by improper (or complete lack of) caulking, and some due to settling, that had caused the need to paint the trim and wainscotting. Next, I started in with the viscosity tests. I used paint thinner first, but then I read up on additives. So, I switched to using a combination of paint thinner and Penetrol (by Flood, purchased at Lowes). I can't recall the exact ratio of paint thinner to Penetrol I ended up using, but I think it would be safe to say about half and half. Of course, paint thinner was what my product called for as a thinning agent. Paint additives, like Floetrol and Penetrol, help produce a smooth, glassy finish. The additives can help make up for a multitude of sins! For example, if you did not properly adjust your air/paint flow, you could end up with a painted surface that has an orange peel texture (a common problem). If it's not too bad, the additives themselves can make that problem completely disappear! But, that's not too surprising, because one of their purposes is to reduce, or eliminate, brush marks! Once I had all of my paint thinner and Penetrol added in order to achieve an acceptable viscosity test, I was alarmed at how much I had diluted the paint! I had definitely diluted it beyond what the manufacturer had recommended (as stated on the can). Thankfully, I was worried enough that I decided to practice on some cardboard, rather than on the dining room walls, first, as I had planned on doing after reading all of the positive reviews here, thinking I could just spray the walls and get great results! And, although it didn't take long before I was able to get a nice, smooth coating on the cardboard, I am really thankful I did! I would have been scraping and sanding walls, for sure! I also stood the cardboard up vertically, like the surface I would be spraying (vertical surfaces are much harder to spray without getting drips and runs), so I could get a feel for how much paint I could apply before getting runs. It wasn't very much! I had to keep the gun moving relatively quickly. But, by then, I had to send my husband back to Sherwin-Williams for another can of paint, just to be sure I would have enough paint! Before getting to the viscosity tests, though, I had basically turned my dining room into a giant spray booth, but without an explosion-proof fan mounted in the window! I covered the windows, ceiling, and upper walls with plastic, masking off all of the edges. I also taped plastic over the two doorways, masking around all of the edges of EVERYTHING. I used thick plastic drop cloths on the floor, but I goofed by not taping them down as securely as I should have. So, I had to stop and do some clean-up and remedial taping when I saw that the air coming out of the nozzle was blowing up the edges of the plastic! Naturally, I used a respirator, and was covered head-to-toe in disposable painting attire. The air was thick with paint mist when I did paint. But, I expected that in the enclosed space. I put on a total of four coats, as I thought with all of the diluting, they would be thin coats. They were, but I wouldn't say that was a bad thing! I don't own a mill gauge (something I just recently learned about!), so I couldn't tell you how thick each coat was, but they were thick enough to cover bare wood without being transparent enough to see the wood grain show through, but not so thick that it would cause runs or drips. I always sprayed a small piece of cardboard, leaving it in the dining room, but near the opening, so I could easily check when the paint was dry enough to recoat, without touching the trim or walls themselves. It dried much quicker than I had anticipated, given all of the dilution. I did get a couple of runs, but I just sanded them off when the paint had dried enough to produce a powder when sanded, and not rub or rip. Of course, I sprayed these areas again. Even with the massive amount of prep work required (most of it would have still been required if I was brushing-on the paint, such as all of the caulking), the amount of time It took to spray, clean-up, dry, spray, clean-up, etc., was only a fraction of that time that would have been required for me to brush on all of the coats! The results were, as I said, spectacular. Today, the wainscoting and trim still look as fantastic as they did the day II had finished painting them. I was worried the dilution of the paint would have affected the wear or appearance of the surfaces, but it did not. So, I would never be afraid to dilute paint more than stated by the manufacturer on the can. Not being a paint professional, I do not know how they arrive at those figures, but for myself, I would always dilute the product according to what is recommended in the sprayer manual (using viscosity cup and timing the flow), and not what is stated on the can. But, I always read the can of the product I am using, because it tells me what to use in order to thin the product (the diluent). For oil-based PRIMERS, I use only the recommended diluent or solvent, and I omit the additive (Penetrol). To date, I have not used water-based PRIMERS, but I would probably only use distilled water for the diluent (unless the can stated to use another type of diluent, that isn't water). A shellac-based PRIMER would probably call for denatured alcohol as the diluent. Again, always defer to the can/manufacturer for the diluent to use, but defer to the sprayer manual for the proper dilution rate (using the viscosity cup). For water-based paints, I use a mixture of one part distilled water and one part Floetrol (50-50) to dilute the paint. I also use a medium filter for all paints and primers, and it is the last thing I do before I spray paint. Disposable filters are cheap, so I use a fresh, new filter when I fill or refill my sprayer cup. If I fill the cup three times during a project, I've used three filters. I always gather some cardboard to use to warm-up on, and, most importantly, to help me fine-tune the settings on the sprayer, so that I achieve the best finish possible. If your paint is properly diluted, and your spray is properly adjusted, I just don't think you will be ever be unhappy with the results. Thoroughly cleaning up your equipment as soon as you are finished painting is also extremely important. If you have a tiny, dried, speck of paint in the nozzle, you will not get good results. I have found those really thick pipe cleaners (oh, excuse me, I mean CHENILLE STEMS) are invaluable as an aid to cleaning out the inside of the slanted plastic tube that is inserted into the paint cup. Some other tips I've learned include spray painting early in the morning, when there is less likely to be a breeze, if I am painting something outside. Avoid spraying in direct sunlight, too. Finally, if there is a result that is not to your liking, Google it to find a solution to the problem. I have learned so much from doing this, and watching Youtube videos, too. If all else fails, call the manufacturer because there is always a small chance you could have a defective part that needs to be replaced. Dilute and practice with your cheap practice paint. If you can achieve a great finish on your cardboard (make sure the cardboard has a smooth surface to begin with, too!) using your cheap paint, you will surely be able to get an amazing finish with your higher quality paints and finishes. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I went ahead and purchased it and it's one of the BEST purchases I have made *by C***T on March 30, 2015* I have had the unit for a month now and have used it for its intended purpose, to paint my kitchen cabinets. I read all the comments here and took all of them to heart, as Amazon buyers always give the most helpful remarks. I was hesitant, and a bit apprehensive, as the only spray painting I had ever done was in a can. A home DIY'r to the max, this was new to me. I went ahead and purchased it and it's one of the BEST purchases I have made! Here's some methods I used. Using Behr Ultra latex paint and primer, what worked best for me was adding just 1 cup of water to the entire gallon, and I don't really think I needed to, as straight from the can, the sprayer did very well. I just wanted to extend the paint a bit and make it a bit thinner. I set up a "paint booth" on an enclosed porch with lots of windows, started with one cabinet and took off the doors, everything out of the drawers, etc. By the time I got one section done, I was painting in the kitchen, leaving the doors on and just masking off the insides. The sprayer worked that accurately for me. Once you play with the settings, you can be very accurate as to where the paint goes, with little overspray. I used cheap, $1.00 red poster board, as the paint was white and I could get the best idea of how the paint would go on. I cut the posterboard to the size of the inside of the cabinets, (I did not need to paint the insides), taped it and voila..done in a jiffy! I also used the posterboard, held in one hand behind the doors, while painting with the other hand so no overspray would go anywhere but on the doors. I have the air set as a bit less than medium and painted about two-three inches away from the cabinets. l did used plastic to cover the counters, tv, etc., and did get a bit of overspray on a window, but nothing big and it came right off. My bad..I got much better after this! I painted three coats per "section" (we have a large kitchen), and then two coats of poly the next day..the poly required much less air, but went on perfectly. I did not thin that at all. I took my time, let the coats dry 11/2 hours in between, and they came out beautiful! One thing I had going for me is that we are having a new floor installed, so I didn't obsess about getting any overspray on the floor at the bottom of the cabinets, which isn't much. This machine will work wonderfully for you, take your time, experiment with it, posterboard is great to use in a contrasting color with painters tape. Keep a paint brush around, in case you see some drips so you can blend in. If I had any poly drips, I used the paint brush that had white paint on it and it blended perfectly! Can't wait for summer to get here...Spring, even, so I can move out to refinish the decks. BTW, very, very easy to clean, much quicker than trays, brushes, etc. I highly recommend the Wagner HVLP sprayer! Make sure you have windows open and wear a mask the 3M07192 is great for this. Have fun and Good Luck! Before and after pics ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Perfect for certain types of jobs *by T***S on June 9, 2011* SUMMARY: Great product for the money, but only for certain jobs! I would recommend it for any outside work, but would not recommend it for painting interior walls, as the effort required to minimize overspray and obtain the perfect dilution/spray velocity outweighs any gains in speed or ease of use. DETAILS -- FIRST ATTEMPT::WALLS This Wagner has the most hits of any sprayer on the internet, and you can find many video blogs reviewing the product. However, what is lacking of sprayers in general are first-hand accounts of actual end users (especially first-time users). This Wagner is my first paint sprayer. Last year I repainted the entire inside of my house; walls, trim, doors, shelves and all in preparation to move out and get a new house. All of that work was done with traditional rollers and brushes. When we purchased our new house I was desparate to find some way to speed up the process. I researched many sprayers and read many reviews. I found many positive reviews for sprayers in the $800+ range, but was unwilling to commit to that kind of purchase having never used a sprayer. With the Wagner in the $100 range I figured even if it was a bust it was worth the effort. The first two times I used the sprayer was to paint the walls in the dining room and kitchen area, as these were the smallest wall surface areas in the house, and had flooring that was soon to be replaced, so messes were of little concern. The sprayer is very easy to use -- simply dump paint in the hopper, twist-n-lock the spayer assembly together, turn on the power, and push the trigger. Having not ever used a sprayer before, my wife and I spent a great deal of time blue-taping and laying down dropcloths. I taped all trim and I ran a layer of tape along the ceiling where it butted up against the walls, just in case. I had planned to "practice" with all those safety things in place, then decide which I could forego in all the rest of the rooms. It turned out that even the blue tape and dropcloths were not enough to keep all of the overspray out. During the process I stopped to go to the hardware store and purchase a paint shield and some painters paper. I added the painters paper to the ceiling and ended up having painters paper, blue tape, and a paint shield in place while painting the upper edge of the wall. I was disappointed to *still* have a small bit of overspray in a few area of the ceiling. I also tried diluting the paint and adjusting the velocity of the air, but never seemed to achieve the right combination. The problem with diluting is the paint can says, "See sprayer for dilution instructions", and the sprayer says, "See paint manufacturer for dilution instructions". I learned that too much dilution will cause the paint sprayer to "spit" and the paint to run. In the end I completely abandoned the sprayer for the walls and went back to the tried-and-true rollers. I am sure I could have achieve the results I wanted with the sprayer, but it would have taken such a long time as to negate any benefits from the sprayer -- the main reason I bought the thing was to hasten the painting process! DETAILS -- FIRST ATTEMPT::DOORS After rolling all the walls, I decided to give the sprayer a second chance on the doors. I removed several doors and placed them outside against a wall lined with dropcloth. Taking a tip from a painter, I nailed paint stirs to the top of the doors to keep them from butting directly against the wall. After lining them all up, I filled the sprayer and got to work. This time I skipped the dilution; I went full strength and simply turned up the velocity all the way to get the paint flowing as I did not care about overspray. This worked flawlessly! I have never painted doors this fast. In fact, these were all panel doors which are notoriously hard to paint with a brush. I kid you not that I had half a dozen doors, front and back painted in less than 30 minutes easily. I had some minor dripping on the first door, but after acclimating to the paint viscosity, all other doors look great! CONCLUSION For the money this is well worth the investment for anything other than painting interior walls. In fact, if you are used to using sprayers you probably will have success even on interior walls (if you do, please tell me how!). I can imagine painting fences, chairs and other items outside would be even easier than doors as literally no prep (dropcloths, etc.) would be needed. ## Frequently Bought Together - Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor - Paint Sprayer Parts, 50 Pcs Paint Sprayer Bags, 7.8'' X 11.8'' Sprayer Cup Liners, Transparent Spray Gun Cup Canister Liners for Wagner Paint Sprayer - TCP Global 50 Pack of Ultra-Flow Blue Nylon Mesh Paint Strainers with 190 Micron Filter Tips - Premium Cone Screen Filters --- ## Why Shop on Desertcart? - 🛒 **Trusted by 1.3+ Million Shoppers** — Serving international shoppers since 2016 - 🌍 **Shop Globally** — Access 737+ million products across 21 categories - 💰 **No Hidden Fees** — All customs, duties, and taxes included in the price - 🔄 **15-Day Free Returns** — Hassle-free returns (30 days for PRO members) - 🔒 **Secure Payments** — Trusted payment options with buyer protection - ⭐ **TrustPilot Rated 4.5/5** — Based on 8,000+ happy customer reviews **Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.vn/products/865971-spraytech-0518080-control-spray-max-corded-hvlp-paint-sprayer-120](https://www.desertcart.vn/products/865971-spraytech-0518080-control-spray-max-corded-hvlp-paint-sprayer-120) --- *Product available on Desertcart Vietnam* *Store origin: VN* *Last updated: 2026-06-06*