Roller Grade Gallon - Texture Coating for Speaker Cabinets, Road Cases, Metal, and Wood. Durable, water-based finish, scuff-resistant, and long-lasting protection. (Black Gallon)

I own an audio lighting staging companyI bought this to refinish speakers, but I’ve used it on everything now. Custom Baltic birch steps , boom and base for lighting, even my stage safety railsIF you take your time, and apply it with an almost dry roller, the finish is excellentI’m always in a hurry, and use too much paint so some stuff I painted is far from perfect, but I’ll fix it once some wears off and I have to recoatThe the things I took my time on came out greatI tried the texture rollers, I’m actually happier with plain old paint roller for most thingsIt goes a long way, so as expensive as high end paint is now, this is really not that much more expensive considering it’s WAY more durable

I really enjoy how well this product covers joint in wood and small imperfections. I made a partial floor for my van from plywood and covered it in Duratex about 3 years ago. It still looks great and cleans nicely with a damp towel. I like the way it covers in one coat without using a primer. I changed my design a bit and cut off some of the edge. I was able to paint the freshly cut area and the new touch up of Duratex blended in perfectly. I will be using lots more.

Used this on custom speaker boxes and came out great. My tip for using it is, make sure whatever you’re painting it’s primed and I also used a small amount of water mixed in. For the least texture use a smooth foam roller and try to apply it heavy the 1st pass and for the other 2 passes use less and don’t roll it when it starts to dry.

Looks original on my electro voice speakers

This is suppose to be the bomb for speaker cabinets and applying texture, but I found it tended to skin and not adhere when applied in thick coats on my speaker boxes. As recommended I started with a thin coat rolled strain on my MDF boxes, and before it dried completely went back with a textured coat. The texture coat cracked in number places and touch ups didn't seem to fix the problem. Once exposed to moisture the coating wanted to peel around the cracks.I also found it was quick to seperate if the cabinets were bumped.A little does go along way, but given the price and the other reviews I read I was expecting much better.

I have used DuraTex on several speaker systems and subwoofers I have built, and the stuff is just about perfect. With almost any surface you will have to apply two coats, and you need to make sure that the initial coat is dry before going on to the second. Generally, in an area with reasonably low humidity, this second coat can be applied after about an hour. I suggest using the roller that comes with the paint instead of some other type. Be careful smoothing that first coat but be especially careful with the second coat.With that second coat, you DO have to be careful when doing the final rollover with the factory roller, because if you press down too hard on that final series of rolls the edges of the roller might leave slightly raised lines as the paint squeezes out. Roll over and over in 90-degree passovers at first with each coat and then, when the paint is looking nice and flattened out and uniform over the whole surface with each coat, but especially the second, make one final series of rollovers in just one plane with only the weight of the roller involved.Wait a couple of hours and the job will be done. Note that while the paint is dry to the touch at this time, it takes a couple of weeks for it to "cure" to the point where you can place heavy objects on it.A footnote. If you want to paint the surface use a latex paint (especially if the DuraTex has only been applied for a month or so) because an oil-based paint will make it impossible for the paint to properly cure and get really hardened.