Rust-Oleum 260510 Stops Rust Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer Spray, 12 oz, Gray

The Rust-Oleum 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer (12 oz) is a high-build automotive coating designed to streamline the surface preparation process. This gray primer simultaneously fills minor pits, scratches, and imperfections while providing a tough, rust-inhibitive base that is easy to sand for a perfectly smooth topcoat finish.

Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer, 12 Ounce (Pack of 1), Gray I can't express enough how impressed I am with the Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer. It's been a game-changer for me in my DIY automotive projects. This primer, in its convenient 12-ounce can, has saved me both time and effort. I was initially hesitant about using a primer, but this product made me a believer. The gray color blends seamlessly with most automotive finishes, providing an excellent base for painting. What sets it apart is its 2-in-1 functionality, which means I don't need a separate filler and primer. It's a real time-saver. The application was smooth, and it adhered well to the surface. After letting it dry, I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to sand. This made the surface preparation process a breeze. It created a flawless canvas for the topcoat, and the final result was outstanding. The durability of this primer is also noteworthy. It has held up well against various weather conditions and wear and tear. My paint job still looks pristine months later. In summary, the Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer is a must-have for anyone looking to achieve a professional finish on their automotive projects. It's efficient, effective, and delivers exceptional results. I highly recommend it to fellow DIY enthusiasts and professionals alike.

GREAT! Good price too!

There may be better, but for the price, this is your best option. I would like to remind those who are using this on 3D prints, not to simply rely on JUST this product, to remove those layer lines. Otherwise, you're going through 2 cans or more. Sanding is part of the game and can be pretty meditative; but if you want it easier on yourself, this is what i do. I rough sand with 80, wetsand with 220 and 400 and THEN use this product. Put down the first coat the way you would with any rattle-can, which is even light sweeps, side to side while either moving up or down like a printer, a few minutes apart from each other. You can wet-sand after 4 hours, but i give it a full day to cure, so i can work on other projects. Wet sand with 600, let dry, drop another coat, let cure for a day, then wetsand a final time with 600. At this point, any imperfections will only enhance your weathering. Remember, every scrape or blemish is just good weathering, adds character and even opportunities for chipping. A few tips. Do NOT over-spray, JUST to fill up a problem area. Alot of people say not to worry about it, but i do. It will take longer to cure to a dry enough state and will only clog your sandpaper immediately. Be patient, build up layers, give those layers time to cure, and you will use less material. Also, when wet sanding, you can add a little dish soap to the sandpaper, to help slough off the debris. You do this, because when particles get trapped in the sand paper (remember we are using a fine grit), it scuffs up the surface more. Adding a little soap to your wet sanding will give more polished results. And when wet sanding, to not keep the print submerged or directly under flowing water, unless to rinse. 3D prints, even with filler, can be porous and absorb the water, meaning you have to wait until its fully dry (at least 48 hours) before you can get back to spraying, because it's still dripping water through the infill. Also, don't use too much soap, as it could possibly be absorbed by the print. A drop less than half a grain of rice is enough. Personally, I just kiss the nozzle of my soap dispenser with the wet sandpaper, and that's enough for me. Also, identify the hard-to-reach areas first, like recesses and trenches, and spray those areas first. If you have to go back to fill those areas in, you risk overspray. If you missed any hard-to-reach spots, let it dry for 10-20 minutes, and then mist those spots. Overspray means more work cleaning up. Another thing is that paint looks different when its wet, and when its dry. When you throw down coats, don't go back over an area just because it doesn't look tacky or wet enough. Stick to your even coats, even passes side to side, up and down like a printer, let dry, and do another pass if need be. Also, a print doesn't necessarily need to be SATURATED in a color. If your intent is to weather, and you used black primer as a base coat, throwing down a light topcoat will allow that black to bleed through, and help make it look dirty.

This is a great, easy to apply primer. It sprayed well, filled in most of the imperfections, and dried fast. It works perfect if you’re the “meh, it’s good enough” kind of person—not because it does a so-so job, but because I can do a so-so job but it looks like I worked hard to perfect it.

DEAR COSPLAYERS & 3D PRINTERS. everyone has heard of using rustoleum for props and 3d prints, but is it actually worth it? I can say 100% yes. fills gaps, dries quick, easily sandable, and affordable…but you have to know HOW to use it, so here’s some tips from someone who’s used this primer a lot! (picture is credentials for my info) - run it under warm water for a few minutes before spraying for even smooth coating. this is especially important in the winter. - do not be afraid to apply a THICK coat, you will end up sanding it all down. save yourself the hassle and don’t worry about perfection or drip lines -do not use rustoleum to fill in large crevices or gaps, this product is for thin lines and bumps! - wet sand with a medium grit in circular motions! my process is bondo>sand>rustoleum>sand>rustoleum>sand>paint. I get perfect results from this, but you can always just do one layer if you don’t need perfection.

Works great for priming 3D prints before final coats of paint. I've used it on multiple prints that ultimately became wall decor. After prepping the prints, the primer was then applied. It does a nice job filling minor imperfections and providing a quality base coat before moving on to the final paint.

If you do any auto painting touch - you already know this is the product to have at great price - easy to use - I I like using the filler and sandable type because it adds body to the stuff I am working on. I order a 6-pack so I don't run out. 5-stars all day long.

I’ve been using Rust-Oleum Automotive 260510 12-Ounce primer spray to coat 3D printed models (mostly PLA) in preparation for fine sanding and painting. So far, I’m very happy with the results. It applies smoothly and evenly when you follow a few key tips: - Keep the can about 30 cm (12 inches) away from the model - Apply several thin coats instead of one heavy layer - Allow proper drying time between coats This approach prevents drips, runs, or pooling, and makes subsequent sanding much easier and more effective. The primer adheres well to PLA, provides a solid base for paint, and doesn’t seem to react negatively with the material. I may update this review later after more long-term use and painting, but at this point everything is performing exactly as hoped. Highly recommended for anyone priming 3D prints. 5 stars!

Waiting on back order just arrived works a treat for me love using it woks

Don't think much it's an excellent product just buy it

Perfecto para el postprocesado de impresiones 3D. Permite ocultar las líneas de la impresión y después de una lijada con lija de 400 o más fina, deja una superficie lisa. Puedes dar varias pasadas y deja la superficie lista para el pintado. Yo lo he utilizado con pintura vinílica o con laca en aerosol. Con ambas funciona bien.

This stuff is awesome! I've seen a bunch of videos of people using it on their 3D printed parts to get rid of the layer lines, but I didn't think it would work this well. I put two coats on my RC car project and sanded it with 600-grit sandpaper, and it came out as smooth as marble. I highly recommend this product for 3D printed parts.