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The Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit is engineered for both residential and commercial use, allowing for reliable power management with a maximum capacity of 7,500 watts. Its user-friendly design ensures quick installation, while the durable steel cabinet and flexible conduit whip enhance its functionality and longevity.
Product Dimensions | 17.78 x 11.43 x 34.93 cm; 6.8 kg |
Part number | 31410CRK |
Item display height | 13.75 inches |
Item display length | 4.5 inches |
Item display width | 7 inches |
Item display weight | 8.21 kg |
Material type | Other |
Power source type | Corded Electric |
Manufacturer | Reliance Controls |
Item model number | 31410CRK |
ASIN | B000HS2L3O |
E**S
Buen producto
Me sorprendió que Amazon México manejara este tipo de productos pues su uso no es muy común en el país, el interruptor llegó en perfecto estado y su instalación fue sencilla.
A**R
Complete kit with excellent instructions
I installed this kit myself with ease. The instructions are excellent and easy to follow. The kit comes with everything except the 10-3 wire to connect the exterior socket to the panel, probably because every application will require a different length. I needed 30$ worth of 10-3.A great price for a complete kit that is CUL (and therefore CSA) approved. Meets all building codes in my area and is easy enough to operate that my wife is comfortable doing it.
L**T
Easy to install and easy to use.
After a couple of years with several day long, or longer, power outages we decided to install a backup system.We bought the transfer switch capable of supporting 10 circuits from Amazon. Delivery took about a week and the unit was well packed with no damage.The unit is solid and heavy duty.Installation was very easy and took a total of 4 hours, start to finish. It took longer to run the cable to the outside connector plug than anything else.After carefully mapping my current circuit breakers so that I knew exactly which breaker affected which lights, outlets, and etc. it was time to decide which circuits we would backup. Since the transfer switch supports 240 volt connections and our generator is capable of 10KW peak we were able to divide and balance the load across the two 120 volt legs based on normal and peak power requirements. It took awhile to get the balance figured, then we made a map identifing each circuit breaker and each backup circuit. The drawing is now covered with plastic and on the wall next to the main panel. We also wrote out detailed instructions on how to activate the system and how to transfer back to commercial power. Pretty easy but when the power is out you need to make sure you don't make simple mistakes, like not grounding the generator for example.I know most of what I have said doesn't really address the product but it is useful information for anyone contemplating such an installation.The transfer switches (there are 10) are rugged clearly marked and each has its own circuit breaker. Each circuit is clearly identified by a letter A through I. Using a tape machine I added labels showing which circuit each lettered transfer switch connected.A very nice feature is the power meter for each leg of the 240 circuit. If you have an imbalance you will see it and be able to turn switches off to see the effect. In the end, if you didn't get the balance correct the first time, you can drop circuits to keep running and then decide how to move circuits later.The wires were all clearly marked and were stranded copper so they were easy to route. As I wired each circuit the following procedure was followed:1: Main power off.2: Selected circuit off.3: Red wire to circuit breaker.4: Black or Red hot wire from breaker connects to the black wire from the transfer circuit with a wire nut.5: Main power on.6: Checked that power was still off at selected circuits in the house. Lots of running around ....7: Selected breaker to on.8: Checked that power was returned to the selected circuits in the house.9: Repeat steps for remaining circuits.I could have simply wired all the circuits once the main power was removed but by doing it this way I double checked my initial mapping of the house. In my case everything was perfect. If I had made a mistake in my map it would have been more difficult to fix the problem later.After grounding the generator I connected the umbilitcal to the 110/240 connection on the side of the house and to the generator.I started the generator and let it run for 5 minutes to get warmed up.Inside the house I started a process where I transfered a cirucit, observed the power meter, and checked that I had power in the house. Everything worked perfectly and neither power meter on the tansfer box was showing high use. Waited for the furnace to kick on and still not too much power use. On the same leg of the 240 volt circuit I operated the garage door and did not overload the side. Now I knew both of these cirucits could operate simultaneously. I repeated several scenarios using the Televisions, computers, microware, and even the coffee pot. Everything worked fine. I knew that I could not power up everything or I would overload the generator and likely kick the main breaker. We don't operate the coffe pot at the same time we are using the microware, for example. We don't leave lights on in areas of the house we are not using. We do have several low power night lights in the house.All in all, a great system that works very well providing you have properly balanced the load and not tried to power up too may things that require a lot of power. Be especially careful of those things that require a higher peak power at startup. These are usually things like a furnace with a motor that needs some grunt power in the beginning but less once it is running. These can be pretty high, 2KW or so, and if they start at the same time they will trip the generators breaker. Be conservative and you will weather a storm without commercial power with ease.This box comes in several sizes and you should get one that matches the capabilities of your generator.By the way, I did the work myself but had over-the-shoulder help from a friend that is a licensed electrician.My signature says Lemon Twist in Manheim Germany.... I came back from Germany in March so all of this was done in the USA.
H**N
I am very satisfied with this Reliance control panel it was very easy ...
I am very satisfied with this Reliance control panel it was very easy to install and works everything i need to operate when the power goes out , i have installed other control panels and this one is a way easier to hook up and use . I am thinking of using it maybe every month even if the power is not out . the other ones work well and do the job that is need at the time but i am happy and satisfied with this reliance control panel and would recommend this to other people that are thinking of doing this hook up and to do it the safest way .
C**8
Installation Tips
Very nice, high quality unit, though a bit expensive. Solidly built, works well, relatively easy "fool-proof" installation. USA manufacture. Really nice that it supports multiple 15A and 20A, 240V circuits. Would definitely buy again.Installation is very straightforward, and the Reliance video is extremely helpful (as are some other YouTube videos...but be selective there are some really poor ones out there). I'll offer a few recommendations intended to supplement the Reliance video:1) Spend some quality time planning the circuits you want to connect, confirming the circuit ratings (a 15 amp transfer switch circuit can be used on a 15 or 20 amp branch, but a 20A transfer connection cannot be used on a 15A branch) and balancing the load as Reliance recommends.2) Do a "trial run" before you start by turning off all house circuits except those you plan to be generator-powered, to see that they provide the coverage you want. You don't want to discover the need for a change after you have cut the wires, or in the middle of a real outage.3) VERY clearly mark the letters of the transfer switch circuit connections on the breakers you plan to connect...will make installation much easier/more accurate after the main panel cover is removed during installation.4) The armored cable allows only limited movement, so if you are mounting to a concrete wall, I recommend that that you first anchor a piece of plywood to the wall and then mount the transfer switch to the plywood. so that you can freely/easily position it with wood mounting screws.5) After mounting the switch and threading the wires into the main panel, divide the wires into 3 bundles, each bound by a twist tie. The bundles are: 1) neutral and ground, 2) circuits to be connected to the left main branch, 3) circuits to be connected to the right main branch. Sort and orient the wires as you do this to avoid a tangle where the.armored cable enters the main load center. This is particularly important if you have a relatively small main load center.6) The letter markings on the individual wires are NOT as bold/clear an you might hope - triple check that you have the right wires, as you connect them. (separating them into bundles per the prior step provided your first check). In my unit the "B", "E", and "F" wires were quite difficult to distinguish and I discovered a mismatch in the bundles (but before cutting).7) Confirm your installation after wiring and before connecting your generator by individually switching each breaker you have connected in the main load center between "off" and "on", with the transfer switch set to "line" and then change the transfer switch from "line" to "off" with the main breaker "on" to confirm that each controls the same correct circuit per your installation plan.Good Luck!
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