hykolity 20 Pack 3CCT 4FT LED T8 Hybrid Type A+B Light Tube, 18W, 4000K/5000K/6500K Selectable, Plug & Play or Ballast Bypass, Single or Double End Powered, 2300lm, T8 T10 T12, 120-277V, UL, FCC

I purchased this item a few days ago to replace 16 dying regular T8 fluorescent bulbs in my garage (four fixtures of four lights each). I read the reviews and was apprehensive about the quality of these lights and shipping. There's a number of reviews complaining about broken lights, delays in turning on and flickering.Let me address those separately.The light bulbs:These bulbs are "plug-and-play" replacements for T8 lights. You can plug then directly on a fixture with an electronic ballast (most ballasts today are electronic) or open the fixture and rewire it, taking the ballast out of the circuit (making them slightly more energy efficient.) They're also inexpensive and the "glass" is frosted, which I find less harsh on the eyes.When it comes to brightness, they're not the brightest bulbs I've seen, but bright enough. I have another fixture with two 2ft LED bulbs that will burn purple bars in your eyes if you try to look at them. This is not the case here. They're as strong as a new T8 bulb of the same size.The color temperature is about 5000k. This is not the "supernova white" of 6000k or the "catacomb yellow" of the 2800-3000k. For indoor use, I prefer 4000k. 5000k is an excellent choice for garages and the kitchen where good color rendition could be useful.Shipping problems:Many people complain about shipping problems and broken lights on the review section for this product. In my case, the 20 bulbs came nicely packaged with foam protecting them all over. No broken bulbs. Shipping was also pretty fast.Flickering issues:So far, I have not observed any flickering issues. LED lights with poor voltage regulators (like the cheap ones you can buy at dollar stores) tend to do that. These (so far) shine steadily, with no problems.Long startup times:Here comes an interesting observation: Some people complained that the bulbs can take up to 0.5s to turn on. I direct wired one of my fixtures (removed the ballast) and left three of them with the ballast (see below why). The direct wired one shows the slight "delay" to turn on, while the one with the ballasts don't. This is interesting. I expected the opposite.Why didn't you direct wire everything?Direct wiring the fixture has the advantage of taking the ballast out of the way (and they do go bad), with the side advantage of making the fixture lighter in general. The operation itself is very simple but I had a ton of pain performing it on one of my fixtures. Some fixture manufacturers use some kind of wire that is basically *impossible* to strip properly. I tried three wire strippers and none of them would work. I ended up wasting a *lot* of time on this. Note that I'm very used to electrical work and never had a similar problem with regular wiring, but this is the second brand of fixture I observe the use of this type of wire. For that reason, I decided to leave the others with the ballast and deal with rewiring them if/when the ballast dies.Conclusion:So far, everything looks very good. I'll keep my fingers crossed and update this review as time goes.

This is a great LED replacement light for the common 4' fluorescent tube lights.... but...There are plenty more that will work with darn near any ballast, just "plug-n-play" replace your old fluorescent tubes!This one works with very few ballasts. I tried with about 10 different sets of shop lights, kitchen lights, closet lights, etc. It did not work with ANY of the light fixtures I tried! There ARE plenty of other (more expensive, I'll admit) LED replacement 4' tubes that WILL work with darn near any ballast.All that said.... these lights are a very good price for 20 of them (you know you will eventually have to replace all the old fluorescent tubes in your house!). And.. eventually, with a little WORK, they WILL WORK for you!1. You will HAVE TO CUT the main line wires ("Line" and "Neutral" ) that go to your existing ballast.2. You will HAVE TO CUT the many wires that go from your existing ballast to both ends of your flouorescent tubes.3. Now... you will need to connect your incoming "L & N" (Line and neutral) wires directly to the two end 'tombstones' (the things your tubes plug into at the ends of the fixture), so that the new LED tubes with "L & N" will connect to the same incoming wires!. Be careful! Looking into those 'tombstones on the left end of the fixture, you'll need the Line on the left and the Neutral on the right of each tombstone connector. That means, your new LED tubes will now run directly on 120 volts input from your house!And ... NOTHING will be connected to the other end of each tube, because you will CUT all the wires from the old ballast to that end!4. These are "T8" size, which I think is 1' diameter. Our old traditional fluorescent tubes are "T12", 1 1/2" diameter. Don't worry, they BOTH have a G13 size connection on both ends! The little prongs on each end of either T12 or T8 are both the same! Interchangeable!5. If you can find T12/T8 LED tubes on Amazon or elsewhere with G13 connectors on the ends, they WILL work with your existing shop lights and other fixtures.... but you MAY have to rewire ('by-pass' the ballast as they say) to make them work.To my surprise these LED tube lights will work directly on 120 volts connected directly into their "L & N" (line and neutral) inputs on only ONE END! The other end gets nothing! and yet.... they light up just as nice and bright!Be aware, these LEDs put out a kind of blue/white light, (Daylight), not what you old kitchen lights might put out (kinda 'yellow'?? -- they call 'soft light' in the old days!).All that said: For the price --- amazing! you'll probably need 20 of them sometime in your life, and my bet is that these will be the very LAST time you will EVER replace an old fluorescent tube! (They last 50,000 hours!)And... they WILL WORK in darn near any fixture --- but you may (and probably WILL) have to change/ rewire the power to them.... I.e, you'll need to cut out the ballast wires to connect 120V input directly to the end of these tubes that are clearly labeled "L" and "N".Good luck!

The media could not be loaded. I manage a 167 condominium complex and I'm always looking for ways to save money, improve living conditions and I came across a video about bypassing the ballast and I bought these bulbs to give it a try. I was quite amazed at how easy it is to change and remove the ballast and just run the electricity through the bulbs instead of the heat-generating, power-hungry ballast. I'm not sure of the savings on our electric bill yet as I just installed these and haven't gotten the electric bill. I plan on converting all 112 ballast fixtures with these bypass LED tubes. From what I've read and researched you can save up to 30% on your electric bill by eliminating the ballast and getting away from fluorescent-type tubes.A couple of years ago we switched from T12 to T8 tubes and I noticed a difference to the good on our electric bill. I'm hoping that this bypass LED will save us even more. What's really awesome is that these bulbs are less than $5 apiece. I was paying upwards of $10 for four-foot T8 bulbs. So, I'm saving money even before I flip the switch.Another nice feature about these bulbs is that you can still use them with a ballast in place. So, if you feel unsure about removing the ballast even after watching my video, you can save a boatload of money by just using these bulbs with your existing ballast. So whether you remove the ballast or not, these will be far brighter than a regular T8 or T12 Fluorescent tube and save money on the purchase as well.

The light is good and very bright. However, the package is not good enough. One of the light tube was broken upon arrival. They need an additional layer of protection.