Protopasta 3D Printer Filament | PLA Filament 1.75mm | Matte Fiber HT PLA Walnut Wood | 500g Spool

The print quality and general strength if incredible. The only downside is the high cost, but if you have an adequate usecase, this is well worth it.

It adheres for crap. This is the only filament that I need to use glue with on my steel bed. Have zero issues with everything from PLA to PC mixes. But this stuff wouldn't stick to the cleanest bed, with a slightly lower than usual Z setting. My Prusa came with a glue stick, so fine. I used it. It stuck.The print quality is fantastic, as everyone has stated, it's true. No need to repeat them. Made prints that were .5mm thin (fins) that are stiff and useable when I'd usually have to print PETG at 1mm to say the same, and it's not going to be as still still. People have said it's brittle, not by my experience. It seems chewy even when sub 1mm. I've not broken a part.Problem is that the CF formulation doesn't improve the PLA heat tolerance at all. In fact I've had problems with it that I don't even have with PLA (besides the adhesion). I left a prototype in my car for a day (it was 80F outside) and it warped to the shape of the seat. Yeah, that's "ok" for the .5mm fin, but the 6mm x 6mm rod that it's attached to warped to the shape of the car seat. That was a shock. a good 2" of a bend in it. Since the prototype is for a boat I cant feel comfortable using it for testing, even if only in the sun for a couple hours.My main comparison would be to the PETG / CF blend by Prieline that Amazon sells. This stuff shouldn't be used with steel bed, you'll likely damage the bed getting it off. You have to heat it to 300 degrees, so you're not going to warp it in the sun. I assume they've got a higher percentage of CF in it then Protopasta does since that's roughly 60 degrees hotter to extrude over regular PETG -- versus the Protopasta CF which prints at the same temp as PLA.In the end, useless for me to use for prototyping parts, but it looks so bad ass - it'll find uses around the house.

My search for a filament that boasts strength, heat resistance, and a nice finish led me to this filament and I wasn't disappointed. While I'm still just beyond the point of testing how far its heat resistance can go over different periods of time, I've already found myself satisfied and even impressed by this product.Heat Resistance:As I was heat treating it in an oven, it appeared to keep its shape until I cranked the oven up to 200+F which is most impressive. It's worth noting that the recommended heat is roughly 225-230F for heat treating this filament which does manage to cause a slight bit of warping/shrinking, but it's barely noticeable and can be managed through using weights or by heat treating it in shorter stretches.Finish and Strength:On top of some already impressive heat test results, the finish on this is the best I've seen on any filament I've printed. There are absolutely no signs of layer lines in the second print I did (the first photo) with absolutely no sanding required. The overall feel is lightweight, yet extremely solid. I brought the the initial test (second photo) with me to work and used it as a stress ball the entire day trying to break it, and it didn't break. It wasn't until that evening when I got home when it finally broke, after I put my full weight into it while I was waiting for it to finish curing after the heat treatment.Print Settings:As far as print settings go, I was able to print this on my upgraded CR-10 with a nozzle temperature of 230c (225c in the second picture, 230 yielded better results), a bed temperature of 60c, and a movement speed of 50-60mm/s. The level of difficulty for printing this is slightly advanced and I would recommend an upgraded extruder and hotend for this. Also, please be sure to print any carbon fiber filaments in an environment that is well ventilated.For more information on this filament, you can check out the filament profile on the manufacturer's website OR in the Filament Database on Indisposable3D's website.

I am making some car parts with this filament on a CR10S Pro v2 and after some tweaking of the settings I have dialed it in pretty well. The finish of this filament is top notch! It's almost impossible to see layer lines unless you use a magnifying glass. Feels satiny smooth, too! I love it! The main problem I ran into with it was bed adhesion. My printing notes are below:UPDATE 10/2/21: If you have trouble with bed adhesion, try leaving the bed heat on during the whole print job. That really helps a lot!For those who are having a hard time printing with this, here's what I found that works on the CR10S Pro v2: I print at 210 with an initial layer at 212. Build plate temp at 55 with the initial layer at 58. Initial layer line width at 160%. Layer height 0.17. Initial layer height 0.11. Line width 0.4. I use a brim for taller prints with a small footprint. Turn on regular fan speed at layer 22 (to allow the first 21 layers to cool more slowly so as to avoid warping. My room temp is about 80F and it's very dry in my house.

Al ser un filamento con un aditivo de fibra de carbón en polvo, necesitas una boquilla reforzada de 0.4 mm como mínimo, imprimir lento y debes lubricar filamento/boquilla:Los parámetros que me funcionaron en Simplify 3D:Altura de capa: 0.25mmPerímetros: 3Multiplicador de extrusión: 1.10%Velocidad: 45mm/sVelocidad perímetros: 25%Temperatura: Boquilla 225°C (E3Dv6), Cama 50°C

I got this after a friend started experimenting with the non-high temperature version of this, and his prints looked really great.Anyway, so yeah, this is really excellent stuff. Some notes:1. You need a bit more clearance from nozzle to bed for this, because it is really stiff, it won't squish outwards if your nozzle is too close to the bed, it'll just clog.2. I am printing at 230C on a direct drive e3d hotend, using a normal brass 0.6mm nozzle, onto a 60C heated glass bed with a touch of hair spray. I did use a wear resistant 0.4mm nozzle for a while, but I realized I didn't really need it since I had a bunch of the brass nozzles around. While I haven't gone through the 500g yet, last I checked, I couldn't see any wear on the nozzle.3. Due to the high print temperature, it doesn't really bridge well, so you will need supports if you have gaps.4. Prints will be shorter in the Z direction right off the printer, but after you anneal it in an oven at 100C for an hour, it will grow (to approximately the original designed Z size). I don't think I witnessed any changes in the XY dimensions.The material looks great once annealed, but is somewhat brittle (but very stiff). In that, you can easily shave it using a knife. This can be a good or bad thing, depending on your need.For me, I've reprinted my entire hotend mount using this material and am quite happy with the results.

Tried all different temperatures and settings, PLA prints fine on my printer but this doesn't.Maybe with a 0.5 instead of a 0.4 nozzle.Updating my review from one star to four stars.. finally got it working with a 0.8 nozzle, grid infill, 230 degrees and 1/4 print speed from PLA. A pain to print with but I have to admit the pieces it makes are rigid and light like no other.

C'est la première fois que j'utilise cette compagnie. Le filament est très cassant presque inutilisable dès l'ouverture du sac sous vide. La buse est souvent bouchée. J'ai imprimé déjà plusieurs kilo de pla carbon auparavant avec d'autres compagnies mais c'est la première fois que j'ai des problème avec ce type de matériel. Buse 0.4mm hardened steel.

Would buy again. Worth every penny. So smooth and great adhesion.