WS2812B CHINLY 16.4ft/5M Individually Addressable LED Strip Light 5050 RGB Flexible Dream Color 60 Pixels/m Non-Waterproof IP30 PCB Black DC5V

Your browser does not support HTML5 video. I ordered two of these LED strips to warp them around the pillar on my patio and they have been working great even after withstanding a couple of rainy nights.These are WS2812B i.e. individually addressable LEDs and work well with the Arduino nano I was using. The NeoPixel library worked fine with this strip. They have a male and female JST connector on their ends, which means that these can be chained together by connecting the male connector of one strip to the female connector of other. Once connected they are logically one big strip and power and data fed into the first strip is sent to the second strip as well without any additional wiring. Also if you are using Neopixel or FastLED library you don't have to worry about the LED index for the second strip, as the LEDs second strip take the indexes immediately after the end of first LED strip i.e. if you have a LED strip with 60 LEDs connected to Arduino then the LED index for this strip would be from 0-59. If a seconds strip is attached to the end of the first strip then its LEDs would be indexed from 60-119Wire Connections:1. Red wire of the strip goes to Positive/V+ of the power supply2. White wire of the strip goes to Negative/V-/Ground (GND) of the power supply3. The green wire goes to the data pin of the microcontroller. If you are using Arduino/NodeMCU then you specify the digital pin you would be using to control the LED strip. This pin on your micro-controller needs to be connected to this green wire.The extra white and red wires are paralleled with the power supply lines. They're used to let you inject power at any point rather than having to break the connector out.Power supply:The LED strip should be powered from 5V source. Co-incidentally Arduino is also powered internally with 5V, so you can use Arduino to power up the LED strip. However, Arduino cannot pump enough current for LED strip. So you might see that if all LEDs are lit up on the strip then their brightness goes down. I would recommend having an external power supply for powering the strip in the final installation. However, during the prototyping phase, I simply use Arduino for powering the LED strip. But for the actual installation, I used the following power supply  B01LXN7MN3 ALITOVE 5V 15A AC to DC Power Supply Adapter Wire connections:I use the following setup while using Arduino as a power supply:1. Power Arduino from the USB port2. Connect the Red wire of strip to pin marked as 5V on the Arduino board3. Connect the White wire of strip to any pin marked as GND on the Arduino board.4. Connect the Green wire of strip to the data port (Digital Pin) on the Arduino. It is also recommended to have a resistor (~470ohm) also connected between them.For connecting an external power supply I use the following setup:1. Power the Arduino with power adapter or USB2. Add a large capacitor (1000 µF, 6.3V or higher) across the V+/Positive and V-/Negative/GND terminals of power supply that will be connected to the LED strip.3. Connect the Red wire of LED strip to V+/Positive of the power supply4. Connect the white wire to V-/GND of the power supply5. Connect the Green wire to Arduino data (Digital) pin (along with resistor ~470ohm)6. Connect the V-/GND of power supply to the pin marked as GND on Arduino. This is needed so that both LED strip and Arduino are working on same GND signal. Otherwise, you might notice that the LED strip is not working properly. Also, there are power supplies that can provide power to more than one components such as  DC 5V 20A 100W Universal Regulated Switch Power Supply . If you are using one of these then you don't have to worry about connecting Grounds.

Awesome. Paper white lights, or crimson red, bright green, or sky blue. Whatever you program, you get.I bought enough to cover the front of the house, they are the brightest lights on the block, and can be changed to some cool patterns easily with whatever controller you make work. Each led is individually addressable, which is totally awesome for a high definition display. I am using the Chinese t1000s controller in the picture as a test, but soon found that a 12 year old boy could program an arduino and create a spectacular display in an hour after a YouTube search.Now I want 20 more strands. And 3-4 more 300 w power supplies. These things will create an addiction in you that your neighborhood will refer you as the new Clark Griswold.Beware, at 5v, I had to double up the install of 30 ft - 14 awg wiring to overcome the ir loss and then reinstall the power supply in the middle of my display. Both sides of the 'end strings' require a pair of14-10 awg (+/-) wire behind the strip to overcome ir loss at the end, I also had to run an individual 14 awg pair from the power supply to the start / end of each string.I thought a 250 ft roll of speaker wire would be an overkill to wire up the strands. Was I surprised! I soon calculated that I needed welding cable to power the other end of the string with my first attempt. But, once I got the calculations figured out, I was able to make it work with the one roll of 14awg speaker cable from home depot.4 amps * .3 ohms = 1.2 volts line loss.--- per 5 m strand. Wow. But, they look good running at 4.7 V when you keep the power supply close (3 strands).The lady next door will want you to install some for her too.

I received (2) of these WS2812B LED strips and when I connected the first one to the power supply with the included 3 wire pigtail i shorted the strip due to the pigtail being wired backwards from the factory. the connections to the LED strip were correct, but on the disconnect plug for the power and data, the power was on the white wire and the ground was on the red wire. This was this way on both packages, but I caught it before I blew the second strip. VERIFY THE WIRING ALL THE WAY TO THE LIGHTS BEFORE POWERING UP. Don't just look a the colors of the wires.I returned these and CHINLY was extremely good about replacing them.I have since corrected the wiring issue and have tested both strips with animation and both are working well. Now to install them on my daughters bed!

This is a nice set of LEDs that are easy to cut up and modify as needed for your application. They come in a waterproof (can't verify that claim though) sleeve that seems like it would hold up pretty well, and I may use some of them on an outdoor deck project this summer. I built a Arduino light for our maker space and had absolutely no issues soldering up a bunch of pairs of the LEDs into the needed configuration, the pads are easy to solder. Using an Arduino Nano I was able to easily control the finished product using a 5V, 10 amp power supply (not included). The individually addressable lights are easy to control using the FastLED tool kit and there are some great examples on the web to get you going with that if you want to go that route. Hope that helps

These are interesting in that the plastic sleeve that waterproofs them isn't sealed to the strip at all. It's just a sheath that, if cut, the LED strip can be removed from. That's fine for my purposes, but if I were cutting and splicing a lot of these in a waterproof install, it'd be something to be aware of. Most of the waterproof ones I've bought in the past have been waterproof even when cut. These are very much not.They blink great though. I cut this strip into 16 pieces and soldered on JSTs and they're all still playing nice.

These lights are incredibly versatile and would be a great addition to most projects. I'm currently developing a spectrum analyser with an Arduino, and these lights are perfect for just that. They do require a hefty power supply though, as each light draws 60mA, so for all lights to be fully white, you'd need something that pushes more than 8A.

if using an arduino sketch these are GRB not RGB

Does the job well.Only issues I've had are related to the conteroller on the motherboard (the lights take on the lighting colour of my motherboard, which sometimes gets stuck) and keeping them stuck to the edge of the case (need stronger tape!)

Your browser does not support HTML5 video.  I bought these not for their waterproofing (which is lost once the strip is cut) but because the silicone cover affords some protection to the LED's, which I wanted to use for a DIY ambilight backlight for my PC monitor.This and a cheap arduino nano worked a treat, and I now have a more immersive gaming experience or just a nice bit of mood lighting for not a lot of outlay. Plenty of LED's left to make more!

Your browser does not support HTML5 video.  CHINLY fully addressable LED, great for a huge range of applications, from hobbyists, interior design, to advertising and displays, good brightness and depth of colour, delivery is quick, these are the best price I found (without ordering direct from China and waiting 50 days for delivery), and these are better quality than majority I have bought from China. Delivery is quick and customer service is good. Recommend this product.