Everflo FBA_EF-3000-BOX EF3000 Diaphragm/Demand Water Transfer Pump 3.0 GPM 12V Volt 60 psi

Pump arrived before expected delivery date. Pump works as intended. ONly issue was the mounting bracket slightly different than original so longer screws required and did not have rubber mounts as old one did to reduce vibration.

Excellent pump. I was able to spray up to the top of some 20’ trees with no problem. Quick shipping and would buy again.

I purchased this EF3000 to replace my 10+ yr old Northern Tool 3 gpm pump. Other than the Northern Tool pump has a gray pump housing and a metal base with rubber feet, they appear to be the same. I found it odd that the Everflo pump box shows the metal base/rubber feet rather than the stiff rubber one piece base/foot that comes with the pump. The Northern Tool pump has worked perfectly for over 500 hours; but it was starting to have trouble priming at more than 1-2 feet lift (3 ft depth of the spray tank is a problem) and maximum flow had dropped to about 1.5 gpm. It looked like the Everflo EF3000 would be an ideal replacement for a few dollars less than another Northern Tool pump. I also have another Everflo EF3000 that I purchased 4-5 years ago. It has been used on another sprayer for around 50 hours with no problems, so figured a second EF3000 would be a good investment. First problem I ran into was that USPS beat the package up so much that when I opened the outer Amazon shipping bag, the pump fell out the end of its box. While the EF3000 box had been taped around the 4 long sides there was no tape on the ends. In addition, the owner's manual looked like it had been through a tornado. It was still useful; but wrinkled everywhere and had several tears. Thankfully the pump looked to be in good condition. I installed the EF3000 on the spray tank and tested it out – primed in about 20-30 seconds and took pressure up to 45psi with no problem. So far all looked good. I used the sprayer the next day for about 3 hrs and then the following day for another 6 hours spraying. However, when I went to make a new batch in the spray tank on the 3rd day the pump would not turn on. Supply voltage good, fuse good, ohmmeter showed infinite resistance on the pump leads. Since I had previously taken apart the Northern Tool pump, I was pretty sure I could disassemble the Everflo pump. One warning if you plan to do this – the two Phillips screws are secured with a thread locking compound and you'll have to use an impact driver to get them loose before you tear up the screw heads. Removing the pump head assembly first makes working on the motor easier. Other than finding the end cap bearing was tilted and not properly seated in the end cap, I didn't find any broken wires or other problems. I seated the bearing, checked the brushes, and armature – still nothing obvious. As I reassembled the pump I noticed one of the connectors to the pump switch was blackened and partially melted. It wasn't damaged enough to cause my problems; but I went ahead and cut it off and installed a new connector. With the pump connected to my bench power supply, it powered up fine and was drawing about 2 amps with the pump head installed and running dry. Pump was reinstalled on the sprayer and a new herbicide batch mixed up. So far so good. The next day I started spraying and 15 minutes in when I saw there was no output from the spray nozzles – 0 psi on gauge. Back to the shop. This time the 10 amp fuse on the tractor circuit that I was using to run the pump had blown. Yes, I know the pump is supposed to be on a 15 amp circuit; but the 10 amp work light circuit on the tractor was what I had been using the old Northern Tool pump on for the last 10+ years. When I installed the Northern Tool pump it only used about 7 amps when pumping at 45 psi so the 10 amp circuit worked fine. I tested the EF3000 and it needed around 9 amps to manage 45 psi – jumping to 11 amps just before the pressure switch cut off power. My sprayer setup also uses 4 solenoid valves, each using 1 amp when active, so it makes sense that the fuse blew. I wired in a new 15 amp circuit on the tractor and checked the pump operation – all seemed to be back to normal. It struck me odd that the EF3000 pump had worked just fine on the 10 amp circuit, with random solenoid operation, for about 10 hours without any problems. I didn't check the current draw of this EF3000 pump when I first installed it. Back to the field again – all worked well for about 30 minutes and again, no pressure . Now the 15 amp fuse on the motor was blown. Checked the pump and resistance readings were erratic. I removed the pump and hooked up to bench power supply – power supply current limiting at 10 amps and 4 volts; motor turning very slowly. Took the motor apart once more. Again, I didn't find anything unusual. While disassembled, I decided to wipe the the brushes and armature clean. Reassembled and tested again. Power supply now showing 12.6 volts at 2 amps – just like before. Out in the field again the next day and all was working fine – 6 hours of spraying without an incident. When I finished, I mixed up another batch for more spraying in a couple days. Two days later I moved the tractor out and applied power to the pump – nothing – again! I pulled the pump and tested on the bench supply – now it was working! Connected back to spray tank lines and tried to power up – nothing. I'd had enough! I disassembled the pump and started tracing the wiring. The motor uses a pcb with four 1/8” diameter copper tubes – one end of each is secured vertically to the pcb. Each power lead and the end of a ferrite coil RFI inductor is crimped into a copper tube. Each inductor passes over a brush holder and the other end is combined with a filter capacitor lead and a brush lead via another crimp connection. In my case the negative lead read open circuit to the brush. I started wiggling around the wiring to the inductor and found the crimp connection of the input wire and inductor was very slightly loose; checking the other three crimp connections revealed all of them were poorly done. Since I didn't have a tool like they used for the crimps, I soldered all four of the crimped connections. With the pump reassembled and running I tapped all around the end cap and motor shell with screwdriver handle. Pump continued to run at steady pace and power supply only showed minor fluctuations in the current draw. I think it's fixed now! However, I'm still not happy the motor uses about 2 amps more than the old Northern Tool pump did for same 45psi operation; but as long as it works reliably I will be OK with that. If you are using the Everflo pump on a tractor mounted sprayer or 4-wheeler used on somewhat rough terrain you will likely run into the same problems I had. Rating wise I went for a 2 stars. One star might have been more appropriate given the pump motor caused so many problems. However, during the last disassembly/reassembly I realized I could have saved a lot of time by simply mounting the new EF3000 pump head on the old Northern Tool motor. If the EF3000 motor quits, I can swap parts and still have a working pump. I did eventually find the individual EF3000 pump head parts on line so I could rebuild the Northern Tool pump head – exact match. I have installed the rebuilt Northern Tool pump onto the sprayer and the new Everflo with soldered connections is sitting on the shelf. Everflo supposedly sells a EF3000-KIT which is a complete replacement pump head; but I wasn't able to locate that kit at a reasonable price compared to the price of a new pump. Given the hours of use on the old Northern Tool motor I imagine I can wear out 3 or 4 pump heads before one motor wears out. One caution with these Everflo pumps. Nowhere does the owner's manual or website identify the EF3000 as rainproof, drip proof, water tight, or that is has an IPXX rating. If you leave your sprayer out in the weather you are likely cutting the lifespan of the motor significantly. I foolishly kept the Northern Tool pump out in the weather first 2-3 years without any protection. That sprayer was a work in progress and I didn't use the pump for those 2-3 years. When I finally did try it, it wouldn't power up. I disassembled and found considerable rust inside the motor. It took at least 2 hours of sanding/cleaning everything, hoping I could save it. When I applied power, it worked great. That's when I noticed there were no gaskets on the motor end cap or on the adapter plate from motor to pump assembly. My solution – two 7” long strips of electrical tape (see picture with red strips) that are placed over the joints between the center motor section and the two ends. The bottom of the motor joints are not taped – just in case moisture needs a way to escape. The tape prevents rain, snow, etc from seeping past the metal to metal joint at each end of the motor center section. I took the old Northern Tool motor apart this spring checking for problems with the poor suction and there was no sign of corrosion inside after over 7-8 years out in the weather. Nowadays I also use the cut off lower part of a 2.5 gal rectangular jug and have notched it for the various plumbing lines to fit over the pump and pressure regulator. It is wired in place during the times the sprayer is not in use.

This pump is basically sound. It appears to pump at it's rated gpm. However there are a couple of problems (or maybe my expectations are too high). 1) The pump may have been a return that was re-sold. There was water in the chamber when I removed the plastic plugs. I suppose this could have been from factory testing but that seems unlikely. 2) I can't get it to hold pressure in the lines for extended periods. This may be my plumbing but this isn't the first pump I've installed and the others held. 3) It draws a significant amount of amps. I don't have an amp meter so I don't know if this falls within its rated 10 A but it dims my lights when it runs. I haven't decided if I'll keep this as my main pump or get another Shuflo (which I've used for 20 years only replacing 2 as they died of old age) and keep this as backup.

Has constant and good pressure. Makes the bug sprayer cast out a very long streem