8mm & Super 8 Film to Digital Converter, Film Scanner Digitizer with 2.4" Screen, Convert 3” 5” 7” 9” Reels into 1080P Digital MP4 Files,Sharing & Saving on 32GB SD Card

Someone else wrote to put the instruction manual under the front of the device - and I agree that helps when pushing the buttons. Some other tips I have for Novice 8mm Home Movie Converters: * SD card - tape down the locking tab on the SD card. my first time trying to record I got the message that the SD Card was not available. I formatted and tried again. I ejected the SD card - and realized the SD card tab was in the "locked" position. Flipped to unlocked, reinserted and tried again - Same message. Ejected the card to replace with another I had - and noticed the tab was in the lock position again. So I applied a piece of cellophane tape over the notch tightly so that the tab could not move - reinserted the card, and was able to start recording. * Clean the foot the film runs through after running each reel. Dust and particles will need to be cleaned off the foot that holds the film in place as it passes to capture the images. A cloth and a "puff brush" are provided and are helpful, but I also used cotton buds (make sure they are the tight, hard tip type, so as not to introduce loose fibers) to wipe the path clean. They also come in handy to help feed the film under the clips in the foot mechanism. * Use the mechanism to open AND close the foot over the film - don't just click closed. It's only plastic, you'll wear out the clip. * If you have a shorter reel - use that one first - I ran my first reel a few times to get the hang of positioning * This takes long. It's taking a individual image of each frame. A three minute reel will take 30 minutes to complete. I included a video clip to show how s-l-o-w this runs. It is taking a shot of each frame - and these films in a projector would run at 15 frames per second. * You will need to babysit and stay with the device during the process. You can't walk away for a while and expect to come back when it's near done. I had a leader (the white part that feeds through before the film starts) break off as it was going into the foot, and had spliced film get stuck a few times because it was not spliced well. Plus just checking on your home movies while running thru gives you a chance to figure out how you want to edit once you have it in it's digital format, jot notes of what music would be great in the background. These YOUR family memories, and the advantage of doing yourself is putting correct period music (or sound effects) to your family stories. Something that would not happen if you send off to get processed. After Processing Once I had the reel processed - I left the SD Card in and opted to use the USB transfer cable to copy over to my Windows laptop. Once on my laptop, I was going to use the highly recommended OSB Studio (free) - but found it a little too much of a learning curve for my use. I was able to get great results using Microsoft's ClipChamp (free version) that has an easy and pretty intuitive interface to drag and drop my clips and then add titles, transitions, sound, and other effects. Exporting to 720p was plenty of resolution to enjoy up on my 50" TV at home. I was fortunate that my old movies were stored in a cool (and dry) back corner of a garage. My 8mm reels were in pretty good condition and the film itself did not show cracks, splits or broken sprocket holes. If your film has issues - the conversion may not go as smoothly as mine did. Hope this info is helpful to someone who wants to convert those old home movies!

I have given this product a one star because it never worked as promised right out of the box and I expect more for the price I paid. I am familiar with the "sister" Converter "Wolverine" which worked most of the time. But too often I had to digitize the same footage several time to get a good picture. I say "sister" machine, although the first one was called "Wolverine" and this digitizer goes by "Eyesen" the two machines are identical in design! Then the Eyesen 8MM to digital came out and I eventually bought that in hope it would be a better machine. By better I mean this digitizer allowed larger reels and bosted a 1080p picture quality. I have only used SD cards on both machines so I cannot comment on the other functions. I set up the "Eyesen" digitizer, plugged it in, adjusted the frame and started to copy a Super 8MM movie! After running the machine for about 10 minutes it stopped! The light went off. The machine was dead! The first thing I did was to change the power supply , That did not do anything! So I let the machine sit over night, thinking that a good night rest would do the machine good! But the following morning the machine was still dead. I had read the Amazon Help page and the manual is useless. So I changed the power supply out with the power supply from my first machine. Not believing my eyes, the machine lit up. But now it would not accept the SD card that came with the machine. I tried to format it in the machine, But that never happened, so I formatted the SD card in my computer and now it worked. In conclusion. I have a hard time recommending this product. A power supply that last for 10 minutes that is just beyond what you expect for $259.-. I have power supply for external hard drives that have lasted for 20 years working 24 hours a day! Make sure if you buy this product you put it through all the set up functions to make sure they work properly and if not you can return it.

I've found this 8mm film digitizer to be a decent product for the price. However, it has several issues, and I found it necessary to use video editing software afterwards to get the best result. General thoughts: - The unit runs reliably. I have converted thousands of feet of 8mm and Super 8 film, and it's still going strong. TIP: Rewind your movies manually, not using the unit's motor. Some reviews mentioned the motor failing, so it seems like avoiding extra wear and tear might be a good idea. - The unit offers an OK selection of zooming and positioning options to fill and center the picture in the video, so it's "possible" to get finished videos straight out of this unit without further editing them on a computer. The resulting videos will be okay quality, definitely not great. The two main problems are that when you "zoom" to fill the screen properly, it tends to add a blotchy effect. Also, the resulting video runs too fast, 20 frames per second instead of 16 (for regular 8mm) and 18 (for Super 8). That extra speed is definitely noticeable. (See workarounds below). - The conversion process is SLOW. A single 50 ft movie takes 1/2 hour; a 400 ft roll takes 4 hours. And you can't just walk away while it runs, because it jams sometimes on splices or wrinkled film. There is no pause, so if you stop it, it will start a new .MP4 video when you start it again. - The unit sometimes adds "jitter" to the picture. - Even though it's good for up to a 400 ft roll, they only give you a takeup reel for 200 ft (eye roll...) So make sure you have an empty 400 ft reel if you have films that big. Here's how you can vastly improve the image quality problems: If you want a better result, you need to use video editing software. Basically do this: 1) Digitize your film with the digitizer set to NO ZOOM. (You'll see the edges and sprockets of the film.) 2) When it's done, you'll have one or more .MP4 files on the SD card that they give you. Copy those files into your PC. 3) Load your .MP4 file into a video editing program. I used Davinci Resolve because it does everything and is free for home use, as of this writing. (I had to watch a few YouTube videos to figure out how to use it.) There others out there also. 4) You can then splice and edit bits of video, and zoom and position the picture (better quality than you would have gotten from the digitizer). Also, you can slow the video to the correct speed, and stabilize the picture to get rid of jitters. (Specifically in Davinci Resolve, you click a button called Inspector, and in that menu, use "Transform" for sizing/positioning, "Speed Change" set to 80% for regular 8mm or 90% for Super 8, "Stabilization" (makes things amazingly SMOOTH) and "Retime and Scaling" (also helps smooth things.) Your resulting videos will be not quite what a professional conversion would give you, but pretty darn good. If you've got a lot to convert, this is totally worth it, and honestly is kind of a fun process. You also don't need to put your precious films in the mail.

Good product. Works perfectly. Definitely time consuming. You need to babysit in case a splice gets caught. My grandpa took good care of his films. Easy to use. I only have a basic program so besides croping and trimming I can't change the look much. I recommend highly. EDIT 12/21/25 THE MACHINE STOPPED WORKING. Stuck on Wolverine logo screen. I emailed company and I am waiting for reply. I'm 2 9inch reels away from completing my project. Update 12/23/25: Company contacted and I was told they are going replace faulty machine. Back to five stars. Update 12/28/25 recieved replacement and it's quieter and works great.

Excellent value for money: with the extreme low Dollar-Euro exchange rate, it was cost effective to order this unit in the US. Even with shipping and customs costs, it was a good deal. The unit works pretty nicely...possible to convert all of my old Super-8 movies into digital format (although you need to be present to handle hick-ups).

Had this brand less, Film Scanner Digitizer with 2.4" Screen, converter for 1 week. We've converted about 25 8mm & Super 8mms so far. There is definitely a learning curve, even for those who are tech savvy. If you can, plug directly into an extra TV so you will see EXACTLY what you will be recording. The ability to perfectly X-Y-Z Adjust is nearly impossible on the tiny screen. I highly suggest digging out the old TV with the yellow jack inputs to get the best result the first time. We've had to redo many videos because the unit advances 2-4 mm with every press of the "Menu" button. The older the film, the grainier the outcome. That is NOT this machines fault. It's merely the way "analog" film was back then. Sharpening the video does very little. More current videos are actually recorded rather nicely! The unit is front heavy, meaning you'll need to use the owners manual to keep it upright, which works perfectly well. It actually works as a "shock" absorber should you be in an environment where the floor is rather "giving", like me who is in an RV. WORST COMPLAINT is... it corrupts SD cards about every 10 conversions, even if you Format every handful couple of times. Yeah, you read that right. Formatting is to avoid corruption, not create it. This chronic problem is not very cost effective for the price tag. (No, our SD Card Adapters were not on "Lock" either. ) Would I suggest this product, no, not really. But being the only one available for consumer purchase, it really doesn't matter what I have to say, does it.

I bought the W******* brand 8MM film scanner first. We liked the unit well enough to get a second for a relative. This particular no-name was a little cheaper, but looked pretty much identical (and came with an SD memory card), so I bought one. What did I learn? The unit did come with a 32GB SD memory card, though the card was completely without any label. Similarly, the scanner unit has no actual branding. The memory card worked just fine, though I can't vouch to the actual speed of the card. The scanner was in fact nearly identical (except for color) to the W******* brand unit. We were able to scan a film and the results were perfectly fine. However... This no-name unit has no "feet" under the front of the control/scan protrusion. That means if you press a control button without bracing the unit, you tip it over. The spindle size adapters are much thinner plastic. They don't fit the shafts very well. The adapters can be hard (to the point of concern they might break) to get on and off. The poor fit of the adapters means that "wide hole" reels wobble back and forth as they spin. The Control Panel has "Left" and "Right" arrow buttons (which are "Up" and "Down" on the W******* unit). That doesn't make much sense since all the menu items require moving up or down. Also, some of the messages on the screen were poorly translated to English and can be confusing. The 3 tiny tabs that hold the film as it moves over the scan area are hard to see because 2 are black, like the the surrounding area, and only one is white. The W******** brand unit has all three painted white. Most importantly, the tiny sprocket that drives the film forward is not mounted quite high enough. The protruding "tooth" that engages the holes in the film barely does so. Several times I had a test film fail to advance because the sprocket didn't engage the film properly. Neither my initial W******** unit, or the second I bought to replace this no-name unit, had this problem. If you absolutely need to save a few dollars, this no-name scanner will work for many films and it does seem to produce reasonable results. However, it is frustrating to use. It may fail to feed bent or stiff films. The spindle adapters seem likely to break (and I have no idea if replacements can be acquired).

I have been pleasantly surprised by this machine. As others have noted, it takes individual pictures of each frame and then stitches them together. It works surprisingly well and is pretty simple to operate. Mine definitely had been used before as there were around 20 files already done with it when I got it. It shows a "Wolverine" logo when starting up. I have scanned probably close to 3-4000 ft of reel at this point, both a mix of standard 8mm and super 8 footage. If you film is clean/undamaged, this really should not have any issues chugging through it. If there are any tears in the holes or any significant amount of tape, it may get hung up. If it does get hung up, you release the holder in the middle and just skip a few frames till its out of the mechanism. You can adjust position, exposure, and the rewind feature works decently as well. One key is to make sure the film is going through all 3 tabs. This will ensure proper positioning of the image. It does make a new file every time you start/stop it, but using a program like AVI Joiner, this is not an issue at all for me. You're not going to get the touch up that a professional service will offer, but those places are also charging 10 cents a foot which adds up quick. If you're looking for one of the cheapest ways to convert a decent amount of 8mm or super 8 film, this is a great option.