esun PETG Solid White 1.75 mm - 3D Printing Filament

Product prints very well.

Absolutely love this filament! eSun has been a go to for me many times. First let's get to my settings since I know that is the thing everyone wants to know if they get a new filament, then I'll give my review:Nozzle Temp: 238CBed Temp: 65CSpeed: 40mm/secRetraction: 1.5mm (DirectDrive and All Metal)Surface/Prep: Carbon Borosilicate glass w/Glue StickSo I love printing PETG. It is actually my favorite material and I know many have issues with it but the more you practice the better you get. My PETG work nowadays comes out as nice as my PLA if not better but it is MUCH more durable and heat resistant. I use PETG for anything structural or functional. I would use it for figurines too if I could but small details are just much more restricted due to PETG "stickiness".This filament is for a filament storage system I am making. I had purchased a roll of Inland white PETG because I live local to a MC and could get it fast. However I have not been able to find more in well ovr a month and needed to finish this project so wanted something that would match. I had seen before eSun was the manufacturer that made Inland and I had used eSun before so I assumed it would be the same so I bought Solid Opaque White. I WAS NOT DISAPPOINTED!! This filament got dropped at my door and was on my printer within 5 mins. Knocked out a holder in 7.5 hrs. It prints smooth, almost ZERO stringing, fantastic layer adhesion, and has a sheen finish that is AMAZING!! I do not print fast, I print for best appearance and don't rush. The eSun paperwork said 245C and 85C on the bed for best results. I ignored this and started at my Inland settings. I had to up the temp 3 degrees to get the smoothest print but that is all. If you want to go faster, you'll prolly need more heat but slower = smoother so I'm sticking to it. I print on glue stick and had ZERO issues getting this to stick at 65C and 15 mind after the print finished you start hearing popping and it eventually releases itself. If your right by the printer you will smell the filament a tiny bit but if your weird like me you'll like it!!In conclusion I just have nothing negative to say about this filament. A truely great PETG, strong, smooth, and just what I had hoped for. It matched the Inland I have been using for the first 1/3 of this project but just prints a little nicer, so it is getting me out of a bind!! I have another roll of eSun "Glass Purple" PETG coming in 4 days for another project (Making custom spools). Hope this helps a few of you and Happy Printing.

First experiences were frustrating to say the least. It takes a while to master this filament and to understand it. The first thing is to understand that this filament needs to be printed really HOT. You need to go to at least 245 degrees to make it flow and adhere to previous layers. The heat is needed not only to melt the filament but also re-melting the previous layer. The filament itself when melted is not as sticky as PLA so if the previous layer is not melted during layer deposition it won't stick. The bed needs to be at around 100 degrees so that when it's deposited first it sticks to it. It will stick really good so you will need a removal spatula like this one:  3D Print Removal Tool At first it's not going to be easy to work with it until you understand the material but once you do it'll quickly become your preferred material. It's way stronger than PLA, it won't warp or shrink and it's FDA compliant so non toxic and safe for food containers.I also found great settings for solid parts (100% infill)Settings tested for excellent finish:Object infill 100% (solid part)Temperature 250Bed temperature 110Feedrate 41mm/sTravel Feedrate 51mm/s 3D Print Removal Tool

I haven't print for at least a year and absolutely all my PLA filament has gone bad. They are cracked up and break when feeding. My ESUN PETG still works as I just started printed again. It took me a few test prints to get the settings down from pla. The main thing is the Bed distance has to be changed for your first layer. I had to put a slightly larger gap on the first layer by lowering the bed but I haven't had to level again since. Bed adhesion is great on my smooth glass bed cover. I make sure to clean it with alcohol and a razor blade or soap and water with a razor blade using cloth or paper to dry it. I also put a few mm skirt around my print to help hold it down. The key adhesion is an extremely clean bed. I also had to virtually half the speed of my PLA printing but it is worth it. I tried ABS but it smelled TERRIBLE and this stuff is very strong. I replaced all of my bike flash light holders as the PLA would eventually stretch and break after going over bumps. The PETG replacement parts are tough as hell and seems a bit flexible for how strong it is.My simplify3d settings are as follows:I warm my bed up to 85°C and my nozzle temp is 240°C I have an 8 mm retraction distance, 100 mm/s retraction speed .2mm coasting distance and 5 mm wipe distance. I also have the nozzle set to wipe and coast at the end.My primary layer height is 0.2 mm and I have 4 top and bottom solid layers with 4 perimeter shells. My first layer speed is 50%. If you want my complete settings I can export the setting file to you if you request it.

Why did I try PETG, Because I was told it is more flexible and stronger than PLA and less "Smelly" , No toxic fumes and no lifting off the heat bed.I decided to give it a try. Now my hot end has a PFE tube in it so I had to be careful about going about 250-260c on my hotend. This was the material I ended up on.BAM! 2 Day amazon prime and after a few prints here are my thoughts.THE BEST! Ive printed with ABS and I hate it. I do not have an enclosure and the fumes where so bad I think it was making my Dog sick. I have not had a failed print. I love this stuff and I will print in PETG on this printer more often if not all the time. The price is nominal compared to PLA and man the quality that comes out is spot on, and strong! If you want to try different materials PLEASE try this but not if you dont have an all metal hotend please shy away from 250c plus temps. Works also on my ANET A8 and Tronxy X3. Note: PETG is FDA approved for direct food contact :) Thats a plus.SPECS: Printed on a Creality CR-10, Mirror Bed at 70c with a thin layer of standard glue stick and a hot end of 245c. No enclosure and pretty much everything else is stock. I've included a shot of a live print with Octoprint. I did try to print with NO glue stick and that was the only fail.