8 ENDS Ford Door Latch Cable Repair Kit for F-series, E-series, Ranger, Expedition, Excursion, Navigator (Repairs Four Cables - 6 Standard 2 LOCKING CAM)

I have a 2007 F150 extended cab that needed the cable ends replaced. These worked perfectly after some work. They all needed to be spread slightly to accommodate the rubber jacket of the cable. If you don’t spread them, the cable won’t make all the way into the end and you’ll have problems operating the door. Great fix for a great price. Now I have a spare set for when the other door goes bad.

The product is good. But the replacement job is difficult. In my case (2000 Ford Econoline van) I had to remove door panels, door handles, speaker trim, etc. You must remove the latches in order to remove the latch cables. The old ends were disintegrated but the cable sheath had to be trimmed to get the new latch to slide onto the cable. Do Not Over Trim or you might be buying new cables. While removing and replacing the cables and new stuff your arms are inside the door with very little space. I'm not a mechanic. I made it work. Be prepared for difficulty. And two weeks later two more old ends broke. On one I bought the entire cable with the ends molded in place. And I broke the electric lock solenoid on one of them. Worth it to me but not for everyone.

they were tight had to drill slightly larger

I’m using these on an ‘01 F250. You want them. They are the perfect repair for the aging rubber boots on the end of these cables. Getting into the door is it’s own adventure, but after hearing many people in reviews mention that they had to cut or sand the cable sheath to install these I thought I’d share my install method.The key is heat. As one of my photos shows you can’t press these on as is. Once validating the cables slip into the slot easily (one required I spread the opening up a little with a flathead screwdriver) then I’d heat up the new ends with a torch, slide it on, and quench it in some water quickly making sure the cable still moves. This process makes sure the ends are securely on the cable so that they do not move. When installing in the door again I did have to adjust the clamp end of the cable a little for the handles to open the door, but I’m very happy with this repair. It feels very secure, so I know this is one thing on my truck I won’t have to think about again.A few notes here. If you use this method, things will be hot so don’t burn yourself. The pliers are hot too, so cool them off too. Don’t let your hand slip on the cable so that they touch the hot parts. Overall, just be careful.

Just bought a truck and doors weren't working properly. Used these for the replacement and the work perfectly

Needed a YouTube video to complete installation.

I was shorted on the order amount however this seller corrected the mistake and sent the other four pieces. Hey we all make mistakes, I'm just glad to have all the parts now for both doors.As for the product, it is not an easy fix partly because of the modifications I had to make to this product and of course the awkwardness of the job itself. In my opinion buying this repair product is still a better option than buying 8 new expensive junk cables from Ford. These repair ends are soft aluminum so they are easy to work with. I drilled the end 1/8" so the cable will not rub or snag and I spread the cable slot with a screw driver and hammer so the cable could be easily put in the metal ends. These cable ends are about 3/16" shorter than my old plastic ends. Once the old rotten plastic is removed you will see grip notches on your cable. You should install these new ends with 1 to 2 notches exposed or the cable will become too short and the affected latch (upper or lower) will not shut. In most cases you may be able to adjust at handle mechanics.The minimum tools for the doors are a Phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket, 6mm socket and a #27 Torex.There are many disassembly videos for your 1997 to 2004 F-150 truck on YouTube so watch a few and then do it. My rear doors operate like new now.

They work but need to be drilled up to the next size to fit over cable end. Seen YouTube videos of people greasing the cable ends, forcing them on with the aide of vices… I just found a drill bit one size up from the one that fit. It made the task a hundred times easier. Just don’t drill all the way through! You will need the lip to maintain the cable from going all the way through.