J-B Weld Liquid Hardener, 1 pt, Clear to Amber, Can

This stuff is amazing. I wish i knew about it before. So far I’ve used it in two applications.The first was on stained wooden outdoor furniture where the arm of a chair was severely dry rotted. I thought that I would have to get rid of it. I dug out as much of the dry rot that I could and then applied the wood restorer with a small paint brush. It hardened the remaining wood beyond belief. I then filled the hole with Bondo filler that has glass fibers in it. After sanding down, you can’t even see the area where the rot was. The Bondo won’t take the stain. So I painted the arms with an accent color. The results are great.The other application was on the tops of wooden fence posts that have also started to dry rot. After brushing on the wood restorer, the tops hardened right up and are now waterproof. I may not even need to fill in the pitted areas. That’s a job for another day.Note that when using a paint brush to apply this material, be prepared to throw the brush away. It hardens up the bristles and paint thinner won’t remove it.

i am very disappointed in this item. it does not dry hard and does not sink into the wood at all.it is absolutely useless for the purpose advertised.amazon does not accept returns on this as it is a 'hazardous' item.so i am out a substantial amount of money.

Had an old set of windows in a very old house. House not worth all new windows due to other problems. Sills were rotted and water would just go down the cracks and fester. Wood was punky or soft and wouldn't keep any paint. Used a similar (but two part) epoxy product in Alaska before and it worked great. Thought I'd try this one part product. I will never go back to a two part system. This product penetrated the compromised wood quite deep down and solidified it. The next day I was able to putty the cracks and low spots and the putty stayed in place tightly. When using an electric dual action sander the putty did not loosen at all. After painting you couldn't tell they were ever damaged. CAUTIONS:Wait till the wood is completely dry. Remove any loose chunks and dust. I used light pressure with a wire brush and vacuumed the debris. In poor weather tarp the area and use an electric hair dryer or heat gun to dry surface quickly. Put putty on after this product, not before. USE GLOVES. Some people could be allergic to uncured product. Also use safety glasses if you are using air to blow out the debris. I prefer to vacuum the debris up instead of blowing them away. Also if the area below the window is one you don't want to leave a permanent unsightly stain on shield the area from drips. Don't pour on thick, often one wet coat will do it. A brush is recommended to get deep penetration into the cracks. One bottle will usually take care of two 36" inch sills or several smaller patches. If in doubt, buy two. If you don't have enough to completely fix a bad spot don't use it at all until you have enough product. Otherwise you will semi-seal up the surface and the new product will not penetrate the surface. I left the patches to dry overnight but if the surface is hard and not tacky after 2-3 hours you could lightly sand if needed and putty could be applied. Don't use heat to accelerate the drying process in the first hour or the penetration will not be as deep. A hair dryer will speed up the process though if the wood was good and dry before treating it with the j-b weld product. Acetone will clean up any dripping but also could affect the finish of the surface you are trying to clean, so the best technique is to mask as needed and watch for drips for the first 5 or 10 minutes. A throw away brush is what I recommend. After trying to clean up a brush I used with this stuff I spent more on acetone than the cost of the brush, let alone the time.Have fun and be prepared to be amazed.

I won’t know for sometime if it actually stops rot but I like how it goes on

Cost effective substitute for expensive Get rot or penetrating epoxy. Dries hard and clear. Very impressed.