LiftMaster 41A5021-I Logic Board Garage Door Opener Circuit Board

Fixed the problem in about 15 minutes after lightning took out the old one. Replacement is super easy. Much, MUCH easier than replacing the entire door opener! Cheaper too. Instructions are included, but the process goes like this: Unplug the unit. Take off the light cover. (Lift up the bottom of the cover slightly and then pull straight out. Be careful because it can be a little snug and you don't want to crack the cover.) Remove the light bulb. Mark their locations and then disconnect the small wires from the 3 screw terminals. Remove the three screws that hold the cover to the unit. Disconnect the wire header connector and the assembly should come free from the unit. To install the new one first adjust the two potentiometers (mine were blue) to the same positions as the old ones. Then just reverse the above instructions and you're done with the worst of it. Program it for your remotes, test/adjust the door (including the safety features), and you're done. Total time I was in my garage to complete the repair was well under 30 minutes. I think the door operates a little smoother now too. Possibly because this is a newer version than the board I replaced. (Old one was an "F" model.) This board also works on some Craftsman door openers, but the plastic case is different on those. You'll have to transfer the new circuit board to the Craftsman case. That's about 5-6 screws, so add another couple of minutes to the install if you have one of those. Even people with low to moderate mechanical ability should be able to handle this with ease. If you're concerned about whether or not this board is the actual problem then consider this. There are really only two major parts inside of the unit, the motor and this board. Unless the motor has fried, which very unlikely, then this unit is your problem. There are some troubleshooting tips in your manual and on their website if you need additional help. PRO TIP: Get yourself one of those single plug surge suppressors to protect your opener so you don't have to do this again!

My old opener came with our house. Worked fine for 10 years and recently started giving us occasional issues (not responding to the remote). 2 weeks ago it stopped working all together - no response to the remote or the wired wall switch and the learn button was not lighting up when pressed.I called liftmaster and they were surprisingly helpful. They confirmed my diagnosis of a faulty logic board, and helped me identify a suitable replacement since the one in my unit was no longer manufactured.If you are reasonably handy this is an easy parts swap that will take 15 minutes to wrap up. It’s a PITA to do while balancing on a ladder but that’s not the parts fault.Worked as soon as I wired it up and plugged it in. Via the learn button I had my cars and other switches connected in 3 minutes. All good.Only issue is that subsequent fine adjustments were needed to the up/down force switches over the first few days to ensure the opener always went down properly. Installed on Monday, fine tuned on Tues/Wed, and all has been working properly since then.Saves a lot of money on a repair home visit and/or a replacement opener. No brainer solution if it can address your particular situation.

This took about 5 minutes to install and it fixed the garage door opener problem at a fraction of the cost that was quoted to me by the garage door company. Of course, they said that because my unit was over 25 years old, I'd have to replace everything. I figured that since the motor worked just fine, I'd take a chance on just replacing the electronic circuit board. A YouTube video explained the install steps and it works perfectly now.

The function of all three of my remote controls had gradually been deteriorating over a period of time. Sometimes the door would open, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it would open but not close. I did all the usual debugging such as changing batteries, checking safety sensor, changing light bulb, checking antenna cord, etc., but none of these eliminated the problem. Eventually the door got to a stage where none of the remotes worked but the wall panel still worked fine. The diagnosis was therefore a problem with the logic board.The decision at that point was do I spend the money buy and install a new garage door opener, or do I replace the logic board myself? Normally I'd vote for new technology, but in this case it was just so much easier to order a new board. Delivery was quick with Amazon Prime. The swap itself was extremely easy, maybe 15 minutes start to finish, and another 5 minutes to reprogram my remotes including my built-in car remote.Everything is working perfectly now, so it definitely was the logic board in my situation. I replaced my 41A5021-D with this 41A5021-I and the supplied end housing and board seem to be completely compatible.

So my older, like vintage 1998, stopped working with our car remote. We purchased a new remote, no luck. So, I looked into buying a new circuit board. My old board ended with the letter "B", couldn't find a board with that designation. I started researching for compatibility and found a answer to a question on this issue and it noted all the boards that this board was compatible with, including the "B" version.I ordered this board and it was super easy to install, adjust the parameters of down force and finally yes, it now works with our remotes. Thank you for such an easy solution! Highly recommended.

The service was great, the garage door opener circuit board came with an easy to follow instruction sheet. Sure beats calling a garage door repair company.

working like charm very happy

works great,easy to install.