Power Bright 2-AWG12 2 AWG Gauge 12-Foot Professional Series Inverter Cables 2000-2500 watt

I had a similar experience to another reviewer where a lot of the tiny copper wires that make up this wire were breaking off under the heat shrinking because the eyelet is crimped flat which leaves a thin layer of copper wires that bend back and forth till they start breaking. So I wouldn't recommend this wire unless you install it somewhere where it won't flex/vibrate. If you plan to cut it into segments and solder those segments to eyelets or terminal pins, then it works fine. I was also able to cut off the heat shrink and add solder to one of the existing eyelets to strengthen it enough that I don't think it will break more wires, but getting it heated with a torch made a mess of the insulation around it.Having so many little copper wires does make this very thick wire surprisingly flexible, which may be good or bad depending on your application.

Perfect for semi truck

These are okay IF you solder the ends of the wire to the connectors. as others have said the vibration of these wires in an engine compartment will fray the ends of the cheap crimps. The strands are very very light in order to make them flexible but they did not install the proper connector for them. half of them were broken before I even looked. So the solution is pick up a hand help butane torch and some electronic solder. hit the flame directly on the crimp (not on the wires as you will burn them up and ruin the wire!) for 15 seconds or so then feed the solder between the joint allowing it to flow down inside the crimp until its fused with the wire. this will make them very durable as long a you take the time and patience to do it right!

Agree with other comments. One end has large diameter ring, the other too small to fit over any post (neither battery stud like on marine/RV battery nor posts on 1500W inverter). Had to drill out with 5/16" drill, which didn't leave as much of the ring as I would have liked, but it isn't easy finding ends locally.Also agree with the comments on the quality of the end rings and the depth the wire inserts and the insulation shrink tube used. For this gauge wire it should be a lot more rugged. But again, it seems to be working... just not sure how it will hold up over time. You have to be very gentle pulling through firewall or other obstacles.Cable is very flexible even though it is a heavy gauge wire.

As one other review stated, the terminal ends are poorly connected and SHOULD NOT be used without modification. Not all products made in China are junk and the quality of the wire and the terminal ends used here are good quality; however, the terminal ends are crimped on using the incorrect type of crimp tool and can be pulled right off with very little force. The risk here is HIGH. If a terminal end pulls off it will likely arc and could cause a fire. Even if the terminal end does not come completely off, the contact is so poor that heat will be generated at the connector and again could cause a fire. The cables I received did not have heat shrink tubing on the ends, rather they had a rubber connector insulator that pulled back easily to expose the poor connection.For the price of $26.99, I probably would have returned this product had I not needed it that day. For my particular application I only needed terminal ends on one end of each wire. I picked the two best connected ends and soldered them securely to the wire. I then pulled the terminals off the other end (yes quite easily) and "tinned" the wire with solder. Since these are sold to be ready to use and they clearly are not, I'm only giving it one star.For those who want details: The terminals used are made from a flat piece of metal that is formed into a round sleeve that slips over the wire, that is, they have a seam running the length of the sleeve. The correct type of crimp tool has a die that will not allow the sleeve to expand when the crimp point is forced into the sleeve. This is clearly not the case here. The result is that the sleeve seam is forced apart and very little of the wire is actually captured in the crimp. I really should have taken a photo, but was in too big of a hurry to get the job done.

I was gonna get a Standard AMP Wiring kit for my boat but they all had very short Ground wires (2-3 Ft) and many were not terminated. This was terminated on both ends and gave me the length I needed on BOTH positive and negative. Even though the Amp is very close to the battery, it's amazing how fast you chew up the length.The leads are extremely flexible. The lug hole sizes are different on the positive vs negative. I didn't measure them.Insulation was nice and thick too so it sealed nicely into a fuse holder that could take 4 or 8 AWG wire.

I have a little Yamaha 25hp tiller motor and the original cable began to crack. I installed these and put heat shrink on them for a custom set of battery cable. this saved me $90.

I'm a car mechanic and I work with battery cables all the time, these cables seem to be gauge 4 for real, don't let the insulation fool you, the insulation is really thick like those sound equipment cables, but the cable overall is very flexible and it seems like a great deal for 40+ bucks, I use them to carry 50 to 100 amps from my alternator to my battery bank with no problem, i haven't checked the voltage drop across the cables but they don't even get warm.