Silk Bronze PLA Filament 1.75 mm 3D Printer Filament 1KG 2.2LBS Shine Silky Shiny Bronze PLA Filament Gold Silver Copper Green Bronze PLA HZST3D

The trick with this is 225C on a 60C bed for first layer and 222 @ 57 for the rest. Tried at 215 and 205 on a 65-75C bed. Doesn't stick. Must print on a 55-60C bed to stick and stay there.Really nice filament color.

Edit: Unfortunately, my luck with this brand ended at 1 roll. The 2nd was so horribly spooled that it had multiple breaks and tangles. Ruined multiple prints... Do not order this. Will summarize by saying I'm not a review bot. Pretty new at printing but this 1st print came out really beautiful. I used the recommended settings by other reviewers and went warmer than most Pla. Hot end 215, bed 57. Not brittle at all like some others said. This has the same physical characteristics of the black Hatchbox pla we've been using. Will definitely keep using this.

Prints were fine for about a week and a half, until around 2/3 into the spool.After that, the filament became very stiff and wanted to stay curled up, and it frequently wrapped itself around my printer, causing a jam.It also became brittle at frequent, seemingly random points in the last half or so of the roll, and broke on its way to the extruder, ruining countless prints until I finally threw the rest of it out.I have other silk PLA from a different brand, that's been sitting in open air for months, and it still prints without a problem, so either this filament is EXTREMELY sensitive to moisture, or I got exactly what I paid for.I'd recommend you don't make the same mistake.

My previous review was one star. This turned out to mostly be printer related issues exacerbated by this filament's high viscosity.First, this filament gave me nothing but issues through half a spool. This filament is very viscous compared to Hatchbox PLA or even Hatchbox PETG. On bowden tube printers, this can cause the tube to push away from the nozzle in the hotend leading to all kinds of issues due to the high viscosity. This was causing a blob to form in the hotend increasing the viscosity further and causing wildly inconsistent extrusion. Hatchbox is less viscous even at lower temps and did not bring out this issue, however this prints just as well (aside from stringing) now that I have printed and added the creality hotend fix spacer to my Ender 3 V2. I can now get great prints from this filament.My crucial settings are:*Bed Temp: 50c*Nozzle Temp:235c initial 230c all other layers*Retraction Distance: 4.5mm@35mm/s (This was crucial, any faster or any more retraction causes my setup to string quite a bit) I have tried all the way from 4mm-8mm retraction in .5mm increments as well as 30-45mm/s in 5mm/s increments.Less crucial settings:*First Layer speed:35mm/s*Wall speed: 40mm/s (Personal preference. You can go a little faster but may get subtle inconsistency. No noticeable benefit going any slower on a well tuned printer.*Top/Bottom Speed: 35mm/s*Infill Speed: 65mm/sOther settings to note are things like fan speed. This filament likes higher fan speeds or it strings more. Too high can worsen layer adhesion. 100% on stock fan for ender 3 variants is fine. upgrade fans like dual 5015's are fine at 60-70% after the first layer. Low fan on first layer.A PID tune will greatly help with consistently with this filament as temperature variations cause significant viscosity changes. Larger temperature swings or a blob in the hotend can cause color shifts as well.To note with this filament, layer adhesion is rather poor on small parts, much more so than Hatchbox PLA. It is not a problem for a decorative part, however should be taken into consideration with any part that might take even a slight shearing load. It also does very poorly with any long term tension causing distortion even in cool environments.I only wish this color came in translucent PETG. I am yet to find a nice affordable purple PETG filament. I can't even find another purple this nice even in PLA.

I bought a spool of this filament a few days ago and have been plagued with issues. It may just be an isolated problem with this one roll....but....here is a quick breakdown of the problems encountered.- The filament was poorly spooled, it jumped on the spool and bound up several times.- The filament width was inconsistent, leading to extrusion problems- The filament was VERY brittle...it broke a number of times- The inconsistent filament width (visible with the naked eye) caused jams and seizes in the extruder..it also clogged the nozzle multiple times.I have been 3D printing for the past 2 years and have never encountered this many problems with a product. I have purchased various manufacturer's filaments and they all worked without issue. Needless to say, I have gotten TOO much practice disassembling my print head in the last 48 hours to clear clogs and extruder jams.

Really unique look beyond just color and metallic-flake. A true "silk" look, if you will.Low-polygon-count structures, vases with flat facets, all looked excellent and really stand-out.Structurally, this is a bit brittle, and thin towers broke much more easily than most PLA. Stringing a little more, but nothing offensive.A Raspberry Pi case made from this PLA looked great, but easily cracked and crumbled. I suspect layer-to-layer adhesion isn't excellent.On the other hand, Vase displays and thicker plant pots look great and are holding up well.Run your walls thick, temperatures high, and avoid delicate spindles for best results. Bed: 60C, extruder 215C here. Careful lifting thin flat pieces off the bed, as it's still a little soft at that temp.

There is an issue with the way the spool is wound. It's not really tangled but the filament seems a little stuck in the sides of the spool. This means that the filament will stop flowing through the nozzle periodically. This has ruined a few of my prints