Global Cache IP2IR iTach Wired TCP/IP to IR

I purchased this so I can build my own KVM solution to switch USB and HDMI inputs via 2 blasters connected to this box.However, be warned, you will need to be tech savvy or a programmer to use this. I coded my client using golang.You "record" the IR using their provided "iLearn" software... which gives you a string of characters.You then connect via your (own) app on TCP port 4998 and then send down the command (which starts with sendir)The unit does not store these IR codes.. you send them each and every time to port 4998 on the unit.It was hard to find this information from their docs! Took me ages to figure out.. hence the 4 stars. 1 star dropped for lack docs.

Das Gerät arbeitet in meinem Wohnzimmer störungsfrei.Die in der Lieferung enthaltenen Emitter kann man angeblich über Y-Kabel an einem Port anschließen.Ich persöhnlich nutze nur einen Emitter, alle anderen Geräte (6Stück) kann ich mit dem IR-Blaster abdecken. Den Blaster wollte ich zuerst mit einer 5m-Klinkenverlängerung betreiben, dabei verliert man aber anscheinend zuviel Sendeleistung. Ich habe dann festgestellt das es viel einfacher geht und den Blaster unten am Phono/TV-Schrank festgeschraubt. Das erste Gerät steht direkt über dem IR-Blaster, das letzte hängt auf ca. 2m Höhe.Wie gesagt arbeitet das Gerät bei mir Störungsfrei mit der Software IRule für Android(zusätzliche Kosten ab ca. 40Euro).Ein kleiner Nachteil ist das bei der Programmierung von Makros relativ große Wartezeiten zwischen dem Wechsel von Geräten eingefügt werden müssen (0,5-1s).Das kann jedoch an der Nutzung des Blasters liegen.Der größte Nachteil ist jedoch der hohe Preis.Trotzdem volle Punktzahl auf Grund der einwandfreien Funktion (Ist in diesem Bereich anscheinend nicht selbstverständlich).

This is an awesome little device. The single IR blaster included works quite well. The two adhesive emitters were easy to set up and worked fine with a 25 foot 2.5mm stereo extension cable, to control a projector on/off.The IR learner was hard to use at first. Just put the iTach and the remote control on a flat surface, point the remote's emitter at the back of the iTach with about 2 inches distance between the two. There's a pinhole reset button that apparently also includes the recessed IR receiver. You may need to angle the remote, so it's IR emitter has a "line of sight" directly into this little hole on the back of the iTach.I get frequent crashes with the iLearn software if I use any of the functions except learning a code, trimming it, and saving it. Reconnecting the iTach (it apparently times out after a while), clearing windows, etc, caused the program to eventually crash. Other than that the iLearn and iConvert tools work perfectly.I tried both OpenRemote and iRule, and settled with iRule because I couldn't figure out how to get repeating IR codes to work smoothly with OpenRemote for my Motorola set-top-box. iRule occasionally goes into a mode where it fails to send commands to the iTach, but I think this mostly has to do with my Nook Tablet's groady wireless. Otherwise iRule and the iTach work together perfectly, including the extensive IR device library available with iRule.If using OpenRemote, assign the iTach a static IP _before_ programming a bunch of commands to save yourself a lot of grief when your DHCP server decides to play musical chairs.

This product works great! It was exactly the device that I was looking for.

My initial impressions of the iTach IP2IR were 1. it's smaller than I expected and 2. feels a bit plasticky/cheap. I was a little worried about what I had plunked down $90.00 on. However, I am pleased to say that I plugged it in and found it quickly on my network. The size is great because I hide it right next to my router. In it's final destination, my new home's AV closet, it won't take up much space or generate much heat. I am using the iRule remote software and it works great with the iTach. The two were definitely made for each other. The IR blaster included with the iTach is very effective at the range I'm using it (approx. 10 feet). The best place to use the IR blaster is when it's aimed at devices that won't move. Some, like my XBOX and Apple TV, need to be angled just right for the signal to successfully go through.One more thing that I've heard people get frustrated with on network connected devices is the lag that occurs when a device "goes to sleep." I've seen it happen on my wife's iPhone when she uses the IOS remote software to control the Apple TV. It takes a few seconds to connect to the gateway. I'm happy to report that we haven't had that problem with the iRule and iTach. As soon as the screen comes back from "dim" or the program opens, we can send commands. Great little device! Definitely worth the money if you're going to put together a mildly complex home AV system.