FEL-PRO MS 98016 T Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set for Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Ausome, well made gaskets. The felpro intake gaskets also comes with the throttle body gasket ( round one and rectangle) for bolth designs not shown in the pictures. I am replacing the China aluminum black gaskets that only lasted 2 years. The fel-pro are more robust, made in the U.S.A. and I think they will last alot longer. My symptoms were rough idle when cold start, lean condition, multiple misfire. Then it ran fine after it warmed up. Spraying brake clean around intake made little to no difference. It runs great now about 3 days after repair, starts right up and idles and runs great. Make sure you take the throttle body off and dump the oil out of the intake manifold. I am putting an oil catch can on to solve that problem. I got at least a cup of oil out of mine due to the pcv. system. 2000 gmc yukon 5.3 slt. LS1. in Texas

Been doing great

Fit perfect and has metal plate that helps secure it in place

Did a top-end restoration on my Chevy 6.0 gas. These were part of the job and were an excellent fit and have performed well. Always go with Fel-Pro.

I needed to replace my oil pressure sensor on my 2014 Chev Suburban LT. There is not enough room to get my hand back around the engine between the Upper Engine Intake Manifold Cover (GM 12610052) and the firewall to remove the plug in the top of the sensor let alone get a 27mm socket with universal joint and extension down in there. Removing the intake manifold was super simple. If you need help, visit 1A Auto’s YouTube channel to get good directions. This Fel-Pro gasket does not snap onto the intake manifold like the original…instead, you put it on the engine and the metal loops in it fit over the bolt heads….do not remove them. Make sure to clean out around the bolt heads with a screwdriver and slide it down all the way for a great fit. Torque the bolt heads in steps to make sure you have a good seal.

I installed this set on my 5.3 with 119k on it and of course, the plenum port sealing surfaces were uneven/warped. This gasket set solved the problem without having to replace other wildly expensive parts. I liked the holding tabs that allow the gaskets to lay properly on the heads instead of the clips that hold the OEM gaskets to the plenum - I had no alignment issues and the job went smooth and quick. Do yourself a favor and don't waste your cash on inferior OEM style plastic gaskets. For you DIYers, the most difficult part of this job is removing the injector connectors WITHOUT breaking them. The trick is to use a pick with a hook - GENTLY pull up the locking tab on each connector (You'll feel a click) and then on the same side of the connector with the locking tab, slide the hook underneath the bottom of the connector between the skirt and injector and GENTLY pull up and away from the side of the injector - the connector will come off with out much fuss and... in one piece. :) I lost count of how many of these I've had in my bay with every connector needlessly and thoroughly murdered. Also -USE THE TORQUE SPECS/SEQUENCE FOR THE PLENUM BOLTS-

Buy this kit! Unless you like doing the job twice don't waste your money on the cheaper kits. This kit is very high quality and complete. The difference in the quality of the intake manifold gaskets in this set compared to the OEM plastic gaskets is amazing. Really, stop shopping and wondering if it is worth it...Just press purchase!

Very common problem with the GM truck engines, including my 2001 GMC Yukon XL SLT with 5.3l engine. Symptoms include very high idle on start, then low, loopy idle, check engine light (service engine soon light), hesitation on take off, etc. Codes might include MAF (manifold air flow) sensor, lean conditions and more. Normally one is supposed to chase the "hard" codes first before any other troubleshooting or work, but in this case, literally millions of GM's were put on the street with intake manifold gaskets that deteriorate over time. Fix this first! You will most likely see that is solves all other problems, like it did in my case. This is so common, one could buy a truck for cheap, spend a few hours fixing the intake manifold gaskets, and make a nice tidy profit reselling the vehicle. Total time for me to remove, clean up, and replace the intake gaskets was about 3 hours. Did it during the AFC championship game, easy job. Was able to use my Makita 1/4" impact driver for all but the back intake bolts, makes for a very easy dis-assembly.. Be sure to clean surfaces with a razor blade and some mineral spirits before re-asssembly. Also, have shop vac handy and use it liberally during the repair to ensure that no material goes down the intake ports of the heads. While you are under the intake manifold, don't forget to check the condition of the knock sensors and wiring and repair or replace if necessary. Earlier GM engines are prone to damage in this area because of water infiltration. Later engines, like mine, have foam dams in place front and rear that minimize water intrusion, mine were in great shape. If you haven't cleaned the throttle body or MAF sensor in a while, this is a good time to do it, be sure to use the correct spray cleaners to keep from damaging parts. Since you will be removing the throttle body, you will have access to the back side of the throttle body bore, making clean up a snap. I found several YouTube videos on this procedure that helped immensely, and make this procedure an easy Sunday afternoon, watch football and drink beer process. My engine has 241,000 miles and runs like a top. Good luck!

Quedan perfecto y son una mejora considerable comparados con los originales, estos al ser de metal no se deforman como los originales de plástico.

Very strong metal gaskets , strong secure fit when pressed into position , makes intake and gasket change on the LS motor a little easier

2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 LTE Z71 212000 miles... I had a lean code on banks 1 and 2 on cold starts and a lumpy idle... several sites suggested it was a leaking intake manifold gasket...as you can see by the attached picture its likely the original gasket that was leaking...it was filthy with several obvious dirt tracks across the sealing surface... so this was my culprit. It took a lot of cleaning, vacuuming and scraping to get that crap out of there but when done it was glorious (wish I'd taken a picture). Anyway I had to dig the dirt and grease and sand off the bolt heads that the gasket slips over but when done the gaskets "snapped" into place. They are considerably more robust than the GM ones with lots of silicone. After reassembly and checking every fastener 3 or 4 times (I didn't want to go in there again). I was done. I cleared the codes and TADA perfect smooth start and no codes on cold start ... which btw is now -37c. I suggest strongly watching several DIY videos on YouTube.. I wouldn't have even tried without watching several. I'd rate it about a 6 out of 10 on the difficulty scale and a 8 on the testing your patience scale...

Real mls gasket , no knockoff..great seller

Fantastic parts, great quality, great price. Solves the issues with the factory intake gaskets.