Delta Faucet R10000-UNBX MultiChoice Universal Tub and Shower Valve Body for Tub Faucet Trim Kits

Installed and working fine was a good price

OEM part and a good price, delivered fast, works as expected

easy to install great product

Plumbers and inspectors alike suggested I get a Delta valve because they are of good quality replacement parts are readily available. Love the high-flow design of this model, works great in my shower. If I ever have a drippy faucet, I simply remove the trim kit and replace a cartridge, no need to open up a wall behind the shower.Be sure to use the black "bonnet" spacer that goes between the valve and the back of the shower wall, my plumber didn't initially install it and the valve stuck out too far into the shower. If I had let him proceed further, the trim kit for my shower would have looked horrible!

Great product. Shipped fast

Remodeled the home and the product functions perfect

I will install tomorrow. If you're converting from a two handle to this, get the Delta remodel plate ONLY. Moen's will not fit. Cost me $7+ to find this out. Delta's is plastic : (Google "Single handle shower/tub valve recommendations for good flow rate" and click on the post on Terry Love's site. It has flow rates for this. The last post was flattering of this unit and has data you might like seeing. There are better flow rates available and I think American Standard was one of them.The shower head is a little difficult to "adjust" for better flow, but it can be done, or you can get one that is. I live next to a Superior lake and water is abundant. If water gets tough to find, I'll shower with baby wipes.The black plastic thing is the Plaster Ring and for a fiberglass stall, it should set against the backside of the wall, not flush with the surface. This is straight from Marcus at Delta customer service. My Plaster Ring was slightly broken with 2 of the four clips that hold it to the brass snapped off. Marcus said it was not a problem and offered to send a new one. I can't wait 7 days though. I just used some epoxy to hold it on. It's not structural and once mounted Marcus said many users throw it away. It serves only to aid in properly positioning of the unit. He said it provides some extra support to the valve when left on.There was a white thing included which is not described in the instructions. It was a couple of inches long, 1/2" diameter and had two o-rings on the end. Marcus said this is a leak check device. After hooking up the water lines, this thing is pushed into one of the holes inside the valve, then install the Test Cap and Bonnet. Turn the water on. If you plugged the cold side, hot water will flow out the tub spout. This will allow you to check for leaks on the cold side. Reverse the steps to check for leaks on the hot side.I really dislike plumbing, and I'm loathe to spend my Saturday ripping out the wall to do this work, but duty calls. I will update if I have further comments.Update 7/9/16 Took me all day and then some because of unexpected stuff and delays. The instructions are not perfect, but should be. There's no excuse for typos or missing steps. The info on installing the Valve Trim never said to install the Rotational Limit Stop. It said to install the Temperature Control Knob though. I eventually figured it out, but come on guys!! Then I could not get really hot water even with the Limit Stop full hot. The things we live with because of lawyers and lawsuits. I modded the Limit Stop to get hotter water. Not too tough to do using a hack saw blade.The flow rate without the cartridge installed was significantly higher. I used that white plug mentioned above to check for leaks and that's why I know the flow is higher without the cartridge. I'll live with that I guess. I didn't study the cartridge to see if it could be modded.I used female copper pipe thread adapters on the rough in valve. I sweated 1/2 copper to those before I put them on the valve. This will allow me to reuse the valve when I remodel the bathroom someday. If you do this too, wrap the male threads 3 times with teflon tape and put white TFE pipe compound on the threads too, I get good sealing using this approach.The biggest challenge I faced was the shower ell was not fastened to anything. When I removed the showerhead pipe and cut the vertical copper going to it, the 1/2 copper pipe dropped down and it was impossible to put it back where it was. I have no idea what the original installer was thinking or how we did it. I had to rip apart the wall above the fiberglass shower stall and mount the ell properly. Sigh...did I say I dislike plumbing?I like this unit and I'm glad I bought it. I recommend it to others.10:30 PM and called it a day. It was nice to take shower again.

Everything dryfit as it should. Haven't got to test it yet