AEOTECBypass for Nano Dimmer, Load Resistor and Dummy Load for dimmer, TRIAC dimmer switches to fix Light Flickering Issue

Smart Lightswitches are a great thing to have, it's wonderful to be able to remote control and automate lighting around the house. The trouble is, these switches use a teeny tiny amount of power on their own, and as such, to be powered, need both halves of a circuit - they need a hot and neutral wire.But, not all lightswitch junction boxes contain a neutral wire. Sometimes it's just hot and switched hot.Luckily, smart switch manufacturers have created switches that obviate the need for netural by sneaking the return path of the smart switch down the switched hot line, in such short pulses that most lightbulbs don't notice - delivering the "no neutral" smart switch, and there was much rejoicing.The keen observer will immediately note the trouble based on one key word I used: "Most". Most lightbulbs don't notice, but, many LED bulbs which have become deservedly popular due to their high quality light and super efficient power consumption - do notice. The result can be the lights blinking when they are off, or flickering when they are on.This dingus, wired across the bulb, solves all of that. Boom, done, it just doesn't happen anymore.And - that's it. End of review. It just works. It works everywhere I've tried it. It fixes the problem. There was much rejoicing. 5 stars.Technical Note: I specifically used this to solve a flickering-when-on issue with an Aquara 2-gang no-neutral Zigbee smart switch controlling a GE Relax LED 60w equivalent bulb. This is an off-label use for this product, but it does the job perfectly.

Needed for an odd circuit config for a bypass need and it worked fine.

I recently purchased a Brilliant home control switch. I liked the idea of controlling multiple smart items throughout my home and gave this switch a try. Before installing the switch I could dim all my LED down lights throughout my kitchen and living room down to 1%. Once I installed the Brilliant switch all I got was flickering to the point it was dizzying. I contacted the company and they suggested sending out a new base unit. In the meantime I read online about dummy loads and who LEDs not drawing enough power for dimmer switches to work properly. So I tried this companies load simulator. It installed in about 30 seconds and in less time than that the difference was noticeable. I couldn’t be happier and my lights can now dim down to 1%. No humming from the Brilliant control at such low levels and hardly noticeable heat on the dummy load/load simulator. I’ve only tested it for a day but feel confident this was all I needed.

And a little frustrated that a product so simple is needed with my lighting system, and also that it costs somewhere around $20 to purchase. But, that being said, I've tried similar products that didn't work so I guess I can't complain.Our entire house is wired with Lutron Caseta dimmers. On most lights they work perfectly. The switch has to allow a tiny amount of currents through just for the switch to function. Most dimmable light bulbs will allow this current to pass through without emitting any visible light.My problem came when I installed hanging string lights with one watt bulbs under our outdoor pergola. Even with the switch turn completely off, every bulb in the string emitted a dim glow. Wiring this device in parallel with the lights (I simply put it at the end of my light string) completely solve the problem. Now, when the switch is off, the lights are off. I'm happy!

This dummy load put between the hot and neutral wires that is connected to the led light driver in the fan housing is the only thing that allows Lutron Caseta switches and dimmers to successfully turn on and off these LED petal ceiling fans. I even spent the money on PD-5WS-DV-WH on off no neutral wire switches that come with the LUT-MLC dummy load and those did not work until I added the AO Tech dummy load at the ceiling fan light power connections. Anywhere you install an LED light that is driven by a dimmer or smart switch that does not have a neutral wire in the switch outlet box, try this device to get the lights to work. I am really impressed.

These are sealed and potted like fort knox to prevent you from cutting them apart to find out the values of the $2 worth of components they contain.

After changing LED lights to more efficient models with a non-neutral dimmer, these store brand LEDs flashed like crazy, it was unusable (6x40W replacement LEDs). I first tried another major brand's bypass that has a capacitor and did not work in my case.Then bit the bullet and got this Aeotec Bypass and it fixed the issue. It's ridiculously expensive for what it is, but it works and it has been in production for years and even other dimmer manufacturers recommend it. Got if from Amazon using prime due to being the quickest delivery.

I have 3 sconces on 1 dimmer. I switched them to LED bulbs and it just wouldn't work. They flickered even with the switch turned off. I play around and realize if I put 1 incandescent bulb in any of the lights, the flicker was gone. That's when I realized that it must require a certain amount of draw. But I hated that all 3 bulbs were not the same and didn't dim the same. So I started looking for a resister I could add and found this.It's super easy to install. Take the hot wire going to the light and wire it to either wire on this resister. Then attach the other wire to the light. Perfect!