Twidec/3Pcs Rocker Lighted Toggle Switch 12V 20A Heavy Duty Racing Car Automotive Auto SPST ON/Off Toggle Switch Yellow LED Illuminated 3Pin ASW-07DY

This is a great, old-fashioned quality toggle switch with a very helpful (and bright) "on" LED light in the tip. What can I say? It works very well, and it is solidly built. It will last for a very long time in its current application, running an electric defroster in a jeep-like vehicle. Something I really appreciated was the wiring schematic supplied by the seller- I wired it exactly as they illustrated, and it worked. No fuss, no muss. Buy with confidence.

Nice little switches. Good "click."

I really like the switches but the light on the switch is extremely bright

Good size with a strong and very positive switch feel. Indicator light is real bright.

Many users have commented that this is a good switch, and I agree. It is, however, large, as might be expected for a switch with 20A capability. The front face is 2.7cm x 1.6cm (17/16” x 3/8”); the depth is 2.85cm (9/8””), and the toggle extends another 3.2cm (5/4”) upward. So make sure that you have room to mount it. It also has a heavy throw, requiring some force to move the toggle.The seller provides a rudimentary guide to connecting the switch, but no internal schematic. I worked out the schematic which is shown within the blue outline in my figure. I have tested the green and blue LED versions. They and likely all versions use a white LED with colored filter built into the toggle.The switch is listed as a 12V part, but you can use it with other dc voltages. The LED indicator works, for example, at dc voltages as low as 5V. The ground tab (marked as OFF on one face of the switch) is there only for the LED indicator. You don’t need to connect it if you aren’t using the LED. And you SHOULD NOT connect it if you are switching an AC voltage, as it will likely kill the LED.With 12V applied, the LED draws 9.5mA, and may be too bright for you. You can reduce the brightness by adding a resistor in series with the ground tab. For example, adding an extra 1kohm resistor worked well for me at 12V. If you are using dc voltages greater than 12V, then I strongly recommend adding the external resistor so that you don’t burn out the LED.Depending on how the switch is connected, the LED can be configured to be on all the time, or only when the switch is thrown. If you want the LED on all the time, then use the lead marked as 20A as the input to the switch. In this case, the switch output is the lead marked as 12V (+ on the opposite face). If you want the LED on only when the switch is thrown, the use the lead marked 12V as the input to the switch, and then the switch output will be the 20A labeled lead.One other thing to be aware of: If you are using the switch to supply an inductive load, for example a dc motor or servo, then flipping the switch can cause a large inductive voltage spike of opposite polarity to appear across and possibly kill the LED. This might be the cause of the problem seen by some reviewers where the LED worked at first and then quit working. The solution is to add an external diode connected as shown in my figure. This will limit the voltage and protect the LED. A good candidate for this diode is something like the 1N5818, a fast-switched schottky diode capable of withstanding 40V dc and a surge current up to 25A. These are readily available from suppliers on Amazon. But other common diodes such as 1N4004 or 1N4148 might work, though they have slower switching speeds or lower surge current ratings.

The build quality of these are more in the line of 50 cents a piece.Of the 3 switches only 1 would actually latch into the On/Off positions. The other 2 would grind the full travel length and would hold any position in between.Over all, very low bang for your buck. But, at least one of them work well enough to "kind of" trust it.

Wiring is understood without over thinking it. Works great. Used as auxiliary circuit on Kubota tractor. Will use again.. Yes, Yes , Yes....W. O. B.

This tablecloth has a nice snug fit