Ford Genuine 8L3Z-6M280-B Solenoid

This part is the part you need!! The Dorman part I previously ordered failed after only 2 weeks. Installed this Ford specific solenoid and it fixed all of my trucks timing related issues and so far has lasted a month under everyday highway driving conditions. Ford redesigned these solenoid at some point apparently. The internal diameters are smaller on the Ford solenoid than on the other Dorman solenoid which leads to improved oil pressure which is a good thing for your valves and lifters, etc!! So, in summary, spend the extra money and buy this product. You'll thank me later.

I only buy oem ford parts for my truck. Thats exactly what I got at a Mukherjee cheaper price than the dealer. Came fast too!

Product arrived on time and has worked reliably. Price was good. Using in engine compartment of my Toyota PU. Easy installation.

appears genuine, came with captive bolt already installed, easy install, the four stars is due to the fact that you have to buy singles, this should be a two pack as it is standard to change both when refurbishing. can't speak to longevity, however at this time they are working properly.

Works well, quick delivery but no seals, I had to purchase separately.

Worked fantastic in my 2008 Ford Expedition EL with 5.4L 3V Engine. Near the 100,000 mile mark I noticed an intermittent check engine light appear on longer trips. Of course, I did nothing. it went away. lol. Around 103,000 miles after the engine warms up it started knocking and sounding like a diesel truck near idle. It shook violently. Check engine light remained permanently on. Drove to AutoZone to get my codes read. They told me it read 'Cam Position Snesor' over and over again. I purchased a couple of cam position sensors. I'm keeping the truck, I don't mind replacing some cheap parts at $15/per sensor and I figure they might go bad eventually anyway. So I replaced both cam sensors and of course it wasn't the problem. After more google searches I find out about VCT solenoid problems in these 5.4L engines. Makes them sound like a semi and shake when slowing down from around 1200 RPMs. Stop signs, fast food drive thru and slow driving through parking lots make it act up badly. I had HOPE that I could just pop open the seal stick a 27T torx bit screwdriver down in there and replace both in about 30 minutes. Of course not! 2007-2013 Expeditions are made so the valve cover needs to come off to get at these. So be aware, If the seal around this solenoid doesn't have a tab for a screwdriver to 'pop it off' then you're going to have to remove the valve covers to get these out. It won't even fit up through the hole, I wasted 1/2 a day on this! Hopefully you won't. Long story short, once both valve covers were removed the solenoids were replaced. They were both gunked up pretty badly. Got everything all back together properly and I reconnected the battery followed the PCM re-learn prodedure in my owners manual (basically let the truck idle in drive with A/C on full and your foot on the brake for a full minute) and the truck sounds wonderful, gets better gas milage and sounds like new! I figure I saved myself about $1000, after all is said and done. If you're one of the lucky people who get to remove valve covers like me, at least you can check a bunch of other parts that might be going bad in there. Hit youtube and Ford forums. I hope this helps someone out there!

If you are going to rebuild your 5.4 L 3V triton engine, then you already know that it is a time-consuming Job, and you do not want to do it twice. I got this kit and I rebuilt my 5.4 3V, and now my engine is as quiet as can be, running perfectly, and throwing no error codes. I also did the rockers, the hydraulic lash adjusters, the VVT solenoids, a high volume Melling oil pump, and a number of other “while you are in there” jobs. I strongly recommend using genuine Ford for the engine internals (with exception to the Melling high-volume oil pump). The build quality, the fit, the finish, and the modifications implemented by genuine Ford are essential for this job. You do not want to mess around with counterfeit or aftermarket on this and you do not want to save a buck because all you’re going to do is have to redo the job or, worse yet, ruin your engine. I purchased these directly from Amazon, from “OEM Select Parts” and the parts were shipped from Beshore and Koller Ford, a dealer out of Manchester PA.

Exact replacement for 2010 F150 5.4L. My old one was stuck and the filter screen torn. This is not a hard project but you will have to remove the valve cover and some additional harnesses. I would recommend oiling the seal before pushing it and setting in place. It will be a tight fit but as it should be. Do not over tighten the one screw that holds in in place. Would recommend.

Worked as advertised

Installed already and truck is running fine now.

These are exactly like the originals, are well packed and fit perfectly. In my case my old ones were just as good as the new ones, so didn't solve the ticking sound in my motor as I had hoped. I should have looked at them before ordering.

They work great last awhile

Worked as it should, wish it came with the rubber grommets for the valve cover. But they were an additional cost from the dealership.