Sea Foam Motor Treatment | Fuel System Cleaner, Fuel Stabilizer & Oil Treatment | Gas & Diesel Additive for Cars & Trucks | 16 oz, Pack of 1

I somewhat recently bought a 1983 Volkswagen Vanagon With the 2,0 litre aircooled engine. I went to clean the ERG valve recently and found that it was clogged all the way with just greasy sooty gunk from the exhaust so im guessing my car has not had much of a cleanout ever and the erg filter is likely rusted out but nonetheless I knew that i could quickly and easily clean it out whereas a new erg filter costs a hundred dollars or more. I bought two bottles of Seafoam Motor treatment because its an add on item and that way i could get the discounted price without adding anything on. For my purposes I found it easiest to pour the seafoam into the hose that attaches to the auxiliary air valve as this was easy to remove and fed right into the junction past the Mass airflow sensor. The brake booster would have been more troublesome despite many people recommending it. I Believe you should just look at all the air hoses leading into the manifold of your car and choose which both won't change the way the engine runs and is easy to pour into which in many cases is the brake booster hose. I warmed up the engine so the auxiliary air valve would not be needed for engine operation, and then I had to cover the majority of the open and exposed end of the hose so the engine would not be choked by too much air, then Its a matter of putting the right amount of Seafoam in so that you don't choke it that way either. At this point you will begin seeing white smoke come out of the exhaust. This is a sign that the seafoam is burning and working properly so continue until you've used nearly a third of the bottle. I actually had trouble killing the engine at the end when you are supposed to pour enough in to kill it so I just shut off the ignition after dumping a lot in at the end. I waited about 10 minutes for it to all soak in and then restarted the engine. I let it run for a little and then began a slow drive around the neighborhood in a low gear to run the engine quickly but not too fast. This created the most smoke by far which is good because that meant it soaked well. Once the smoke stopped or slowed significantly I shut the engine off and checked in the ERG valve hole on the manifold once the engine cooled. I Could not find any more of the greasy black gunk so It worked! The rest was split between going into the fuel and the oil to clean out injectors and galleys and I plan on an oil change soon as a result. Great product does what it says it does and my engine is running much smoother now likely due to a more even mixture in a no longer impacted manifold. I also recommend watching a youtube video on how to do this, it helps to see the things I'm talking about.

I bought this under the guidance of my Smog Technician to clear up a high NOx rating for 15mph. I have a 1998 Honda Civic EX VTEC, 5 speed. The past 15 years, the car has always passed smog with flying colors (usually, all the numbers are 0 or close to it). This year, the car passed everything fine with the same record, except NOx at 15 mph. Reading online said that this is the place to fail if your car is going to fail. Prior years, the number was 50, with a max limit of 480 or so. This year, it went up to 780. So, I bought seafoam and, unlike a lot of other people, my car hardly smoked at all. I baby my car usually (short shift, cruise at 60-65, easy on the gas and brake and clutch) all in the name of gas mileage. With only an intake, exhaust, and headers, I average into the mid 40's for gas mileage average, when the EPA for the car is 25/33. I'm not sure if this is something to do with my car getting old and the Catylitic converter is getting bad, but after Seafoam, the car registered a barely pass of 460 out of 480 max. For those of you who wonder, I added the seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line. This, from what I have been told, is good for a quick fix and to pass smog. I later dumped the rest of the can (2/3 left) into the gas tank. Its hard to notice, but I believe the car idles a bit easier (no gushing kind of noises). Could be cleaning the injectors. Whatever the case, I passed smog and plan on using this the next time I go in for a smog 2 years from now. I read a lot of forums online and there is great debate over seafoam. It took me a while to buy it, but it worked. 5 Stars! Worst that happens is you put it into a car that is held together by carbon deposits and your car leaks. If you car leaks oil already, or you believe it has the possibility to with engine cleaning, don't buy this. But if you have high NOx or other figures, this is is a good buy to pass smog. Heck, once you pass smog, it doesn't matter anymore for 2 years. Cheap investment/safety net for your car.

We have a small-engine mechanic who turned us onto SeaFoam motor treatment -- and against most gasoline preservatives and treatments. He said he'd drained, or seen inside, thousands of gasoline tanks, and the stuff sold as gasoline storage additives was often still there, sitting as gel on the bottom of the tank. Just gunk. He also said most brands of engine treatment weren't worth the money. However, he swore by SeaFoam, which I'd never tried at the time, and my experience since has proved him out. I've had many rough-running engines find their power and performance again, with nothing different, but a shot of SeaFoam in the gas tank (and the crankcase). We own a number of vehicles and equipment with small engines, from a compact backhoe, to a ride'em Husqvarna mower, weedwacker, chainsaw -- and on the larger size, a Honda SUV and Ford F150 pickup. All of them have benefited greatly from the regular use of SeaFoam. However, when we're running the road vehicles a lot, especially in the summer, we go through gas and don't necessarily add SeaFoam with every fill. Recently, the Ford began to run rough. It stalled as I pulled up to corners and lights. In the past, that would have meant a mechanic and an expensive tune-up. All I did was go for a fill-up, and started by adding a full can of SeaFoam. Problem solved, just like that. The Terramite (made in the USA) backhoe is not used a lot -- and as with most motors, that is a problem. It's bad for an engine not to run it -- and especially, in most cases, for it to sit with gas in the tank. The backhoe has a Kohler Command 25-horse gasoline engine that powers the hydraulics that run the wheels, steering, front-loader, and backhoe. I change the spark plugs each season, but it, like my Stihl chainsaw, and 6500 watt backup (gasoline) generator, and for that matter, all the small engines, can be hard to start after a hiatus. And even when they get going, they'll run rough. I used to drain the tanks frequently, then run them dry, then fill again before use, and hope for the best. But SeaFoam has changed all that. Throughout the summer, I can leave treated gas in the tank, and have little problems with starts or rough running. In the smaller equipment, I dose the gasoline with each fill (1 oz per gallon), as SeaFoam cleans both carburetors and full injection systems. It is good for gasoline and diesel engines. Added to your crankcase (1.5 oz per quart of oil), it cleans deposits and quiets noisy lifters. These days, most gasoline is mixed with ethanol and that's a bad thing for small engines. Ethanol goes hand in hand with water -- and as we all know, water in the gas is anathema to motors. Again, my small engine mechanic told me, 90% of the no-start problems he had to deal with were caused by ethanol-caused water in the fuel system. SeaFoam actually controls moisture and prevents this problem. It also de-ices and is anti-gel. In my opinion, when it comes to gasoline and diesel engines, large and small, SeaFoam is THE Silver Bullet. My equipment is often running, while my neighbors are running with theirs to the shop. I've told many about SeaFoam, but some people seem to want to do it the hard way. By the way, I also swear by PRI-G fuel additive for long-term gasoline storage. I keep 100 gallons of gas in tanks for emergency use. We are in a rural, wilderness area. I was introduced to that by survival expert, Steve Harris. He said he's had gasoline that was 10 years old still run equipment, because he'd added PRI-G to it (you can buy here on Amazon). Of course, you have to remember to add more PRI-G each year -- that's the catch. So our rule of thumb is, PRI-G for long term fuel storage -- and SeaFoam for month to month. Also -- this price is right! Of course, when you compare the cost of equipment breakdown, and having to take anything to a mechanic, this is almost free. However, apples to apples, this price is cheaper than Walmart -- and up to $4 cheaper per can than many auto supply and hardware stores. Can't say enough good things about this product! Highly recommended.

Decades ago, I had heard the lore of SeaFoam for engines from an old car guy. Its virtues were described as being part carbeurator cleaner, part fuel stabilizer, part gunk remover. Over the years I have used this in all manner of engines, but it has been my go to for years now for small engines. It keeps my snow blower, lawn mower and pressure washer engines clean and extends the time between tuneups. I will usually start and end the season with a mixture of straight gas and SeaFoam as directed and then I will run the engines. SeaFoam will produce that satisfying puff of white smoke as it burns and in turn it lessens the residue in the small engines and helps them run better. I have noticed less gunking in my carbeurators (especially the little bowl ones with the pinhole sprayer) and the engines run smoother without hiccups. Seafoam’s formula is nothing space age, it is just a marine gasoline cleansing mixture that also helps keep small engines running smooth and hopefully prolongs their life. The price is very reasonable as I get maybe five or ten treatments out of a can, depending on the size of the engine. I would recommend it for seasonal maintainence and even as an option for a nonstarting or rough running small engine. Good luck.

I think of lot of guys use this for the smoke show it produces out the tail pipe. Pay no attention to most of the Youtube videos you see about this product: almost all of those people are using it wrong. WRONG WAY: start car, pour seafoam into fuel, oil and PCV valve or carburetor (or similar entry point to the cylinders) and then stamp on the gas hard until it looks like someone detonated a hydrogen bomb in your neighborhood. RIGHT (and more mature & informed) WAY: start car, let it warm, pour in Seafoam to fuel, oil and cylinders. Once all used, TURN OFF CAR. Let sit for at least 5 minutes (preferably 15) and then turn the car back on and DRIVE IT somewhere, aggressively but not irresponsibly. Do so for 20 minutes or so or at least until the smoke dissipates. Most cars don't need this treatment but I can see it on an older car or a vehicle that's been abused and requires a full tune-up. Be ever mindful that the deposits you liberate from the engine may, in fact, be all that holds the motor together. Oil might not lubricate as well (or at all) if the clearances between bearings are so wide (without the deposits in place) that it can't reach them. Take care when using this product, and do so responsibly. Better idea: run 20% Marvel Mystery oil in your crankcase (use 1 of each 5 quarts as MMO), add 4 or 5 ounces of it (per 10 gallons) to the fuel, and pour some down the carburetor (or into PCV valve or a carefully-selected vacuum line) ) once the car is started. Don't go crazy with the amount you pour into the engine directly. Run it in a new oil change: use cheap (but new) oil. Use a cheap (but decent) oil filter like a Fram ExtraGuard [the Orange Can]. Run for 2-4 weeks. Change oil again with a good filter (Motorcraft are my favorites but Purolator and Mobil 1 are great as well) and decent oil (preferably synthetic) and watch the crap drain out with the oil/Marvel Mystery Oil combo. Continue to run good oils and filters from then on, and perhaps repeat this procedure every few years or as you believe it necessary. Seafoam is a far more aggressive crankcase cleaner (flush) solution which fewer cars are in bad enough condition to require. But for those that are, it works well. Just use correctly and responsibly. And beware that it may clean out exactly what was holding the motor together all those years. Still, few vehicles will have that problem.

I'll keep this brief, as there are countless other reviews that have shared positive experiences about this product. I too have had a similar experience, and it has improved the engine performance of my aging Mitsubishi Galant. My vehicle has 212k miles, and is 15 years old (2001). I didn't necessarily have any major issues I was trying to fix or repair, I just wanted to clean things out and prevent something from occurring. I added the fluid via the vacuum line, but when I started this project I had no idea how I was going to accomplish this task. I don't have a shop with fancy tools, in fact, I'm lucky I have tools to do half the shtuff I do. In order for me to accomplish this, I needed a hose, or a drip line of some sort to feed the liquid. My mechanic buddy (doesn't everybody have one of these?) recommended that I get the Berryman B-12 kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKIM8/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_4). This kit provided the drip line and attachments to complete the job. If anything, this review is to tell you, get that kit as it will save your Saturday! And be prepared for the biggest mushroom cloud of your life. I thought my car was on fire, I mean seriously, I looked like an old steam engine train going down the neighborhood, I even had a car pull over honking his horn and pointing as if I couldn't tell that I was being chased by the stay-puffed marshmallow man! Car is running very nice now. Otherwise, yada yada yada, rainbows and unicorns. This stuff is awesome! Get that kit

was pretty skeptical about this stuff at first but figured it was worth a shot since basically every mechanic on the internet swears by it. added it to my gas tank before a fill up and after a couple of drives i genuinely noticed the engine running smoother and the idle felt way more stable. if you have an older car or one that has been sitting for a while this is one of the easiest and cheapest things you can try, totally worth it.

You can look-up SeaFoam on YouTube for uses for SeaFoam. I would only use it as recommended by the manufacturer, which states you can add 4-6 ounces to your motor oil 200-300 miles before your next oil change. I don't think they recommend running it full-time in your oil, not even in smaller amounts. Quality engine oil has its own detergents which should keep your engine pretty clean between changes as long as you change your oil often enough. For the fuel system, there are 3 recommended ways to use it. First is to pour several ounce into a small container and let it get "sucked" into the intake through a disconnected vacuum line (not recommended for those that are not comfortable disconnecting hoses from the engine). Second, is to use the SPRAY version and spray it directly into the throttle-body or carburetor of a warmed, idling engine. Doing this, you spray as much as you can without stalling the engine for about 5 minutes. Then you spray enough to STALL the engine, letting the engine sit OFF for about 15 minutes. Then re-starting the engine and allowing the remainder of the SeaFoam to burn-off in the engine for about 5 minutes.This is called Hot-Soaking. The 3rd way to use SeaFoam is to pour a full bottle into you fuel-tank before refueling and just let it do it's thing cleaning the fuel-injectors and intake system. I use it for my vehicles and lawn equipment. Works in all gas/diesel engines.

Excellent work

Wirkte Wunder bei meinem 42 Jahre altem Oldtimer Van. Nachdem die Jahre zuvor das Getriebe überholt , der Vergaser, Zündung, Kaltstart, AGR und vieles mehr für tausende Euro erneuert wurde und kaum Besserung brachten - wurde Anfang des Jahres 1,5 Flaschen Seafoam in den viertelvollen Tank gekippt und dann ca. 200 km gefahren. Das Seafoam scheint die Ventile des originalen ungeöffneten 42 Jahre alten 140.000 Meilen Motor so gut gereinigt und abgedichtet zu haben, dass der Van über die gewohnte Strecke über die Alpen nun 20-30km/h schneller ist (30km/h auf gerader Strecke, 20km/h Berg auf) und trotz der höheren Geschwindigkeit (nur) 19-21 Liter (Autogas) verbrauchte von zuvor 21 bis über 23 Liter. Also weniger Verbrauch und mehr Endgeschwindigkeit (ohne zwangsweise runterzuschalten und die Drehzahl ungesund hoch zu erhöhen). Hätte ich es nicht selbst probiert und genau mit App dokumentiert würde ich es nicht glauben. Ich hatte auch vor dem Ölwechsel ca. 200ml Seafoam in das Motoröl gegeben und bin 250km gefahren, konnte da jedoch keine besondere reinigende Wirkung feststellen. Das Motoröl war so sauber wie immer, vllt. weil es seit Jahren schon mit Ceratec Öl-Zusatz läuft (der auch fühlbar gut funktioniert verschiedenen Motoren) und der Motor deshalb sauber war. Bei neueren Autos konnte ich so eine gravierende Wirkung als Benzinzusatz nicht feststellen - aber vermute, dass es auch hier förderlich ist den Motor langfristig sauberer zu halten. Die Moral von der Geschichte: Wenn man ein schlecht laufendes Auto hat, lieber zuerst die 30€ inkl. Versand in Seafoam investieren, und erst wenn das nicht klappt mit dem Schrauben anfangen..... hätte in meinem Fall tausende Euro gespart. Als Ing. spät was dazu gelernt ;-)

discovered this stuff years ago for treating outboard motors...was hard to get hold of but now is easy through Amazon great for giving any engine a bit of a clean out without pulling it apart

15年くらい10万キロ以上乗ったボルボが、100㎞/hで走るのに回転が上がらずに苦労していました。この製品をガソリン充填ごとに、燃料に半分、オイルに半分混ぜて、3回ほど走ると、エンジンがヒュンヒュンとアクセルを踏むと機敏に反応して、新車並みによく走るようになりました。ものすごくいい製品です。

Questa meraviglia ha fatto miracoli! Devi avere un po' di pratica con la meccanica tuttavia con poca spesa si ha una resa veramente impressionante