Warm White 2800K LED Strip Lights 16.4ft Double Row 3528 SMD 1200 LEDs DC 12V Flexible LED Strip Tape Light Ribbon Lamp Indoors for Bedroom Lighting

This strip gives off plenty of light and is easily applied. I cut five pieces, each about 35 inches in length, and then attached each of these strips to an aluminum bar to be attached to the underside of the cabinets. I did this instead of sticking the LEDs directly to the cabinet underside so that the light bars could easily be switched out if needed. The strips are easily cut to length with scissors (only at the places marked for cutting) and easily soldered on the copper spots. I've deducted a star for three reasons. First, the adhesive seems to be somewhat uneven. It pulls loose in places. Second, I did not feel I could rely on the adhesive as an insulator and was afraid of short circuits between the LED strip and the aluminum mounting bar. You can see the copper pads under the thin adhesive and I just didn't feel I could count of the adhesive's insulation integrity. So I used Kapton tape as an extra insulator, which works very well but it's an extra step. Third, these strips are wide so they won't fit in any LED light-bar channel stock I found on the Internet. I had to come up with my own mounting system. However, with some care and thought, these make great undercabinet lights. My wife's very happy.

These are the LED's I liked best. I experimented with some cheaper LED strips but the strip density was a little lacking on those. These are double density, double strip, so you're getting 4 times as many LED's as the cheaper strips (1200 vs 300).The project was to convert 3 kitchen lights. Each kitchen light had 2 of the T9 32 watt circline bulbs.After removing the T9's and the old ballast I installed a 60 watt driver "Mean Well USA LPV-60-12 Power Supply; AC-DC; 12V@5A". Then several cut sections of LED's with a total power draw of 55 watts (about ~12 feet of LED's) per fixture. I didn't measure the exact length of the LED strips. Instead I used a Kill-O-Watt meter and a temporary power cord with the goal of using enough LED's until I reached the 55 watt power draw.The old power draw was ~64 watts using the T9's (maybe more as I'm assuming a 100% power efficiency for the ballast which isn't likely). The LED conversion uses ~55 watts as measured at the temporary power cord, and is a little brighter as well.The LED strips I received had 3M adhesive backing, a plus in my book.

Installed them as kitchen under-cabinet strip lights inside aluminum channels, also bought on Amazon. Really good for task lighting at full brightness. Using dimmable supply and wall dimmer, or with an appropriate LED dimmer, they provide mellow and warm mood lighting as well.You MUST BE ABLE TO SOLDER to practically use these. Stick the strips to the inside of the aluminum channels, solder 2-wire LED connectors on one or both ends, and close up the fixture with diffuser and end caps. The channels snap into spring clips that screw into your cabinet bases. Run something like 18 gauge wire from your power supply to each light position, and splice in connectors with solder and heat-shrink tubing to feed them. You can solder connectors at both ends of a strip to power the next strip, as needed.I'm grateful to finally find a light strip that's of high enough intensity to see what I'm doing when preparing food. The project is so far a success after 6 months.

I bought only the led strip based on its current, power and voltage ratings. Did not buy a remote control or power supply as I already had those. After the first few days these LEDs left me very disappointed. They take up to 15 -20 mins to come to full brightness. The first 10 mins it seems like they are not even lit - you’ll have to look directly at them at their concealed location to determine whether they are ON or not. In my case they are concealed under the kitchen counter and after the first few days they would not light anything under the kitchen counter when I turned the power on. Initially I thought it must be a loose connection, but when I bent under the cabinets i saw they were very dimly illuminated, which meant they were getting power. I nevertheless redid the wiring but found no change in behavior.I just ordered a new warm white led strip from aspectLED, seems like they have better quality LED strips compared to amazon.BTW: I am not an agent for aspectLED and am not trying to advertise their product. In the past I’ve bought led strips from bulbs unlimited retail store ($70 + tax for 16.4 ft strip). These are excellent and have not diminished in intensity in over 2 years. Had they been any cheaper I’d not have gone to aspectLED (online), which is just a little bit cheaper ($49.99 + $9.99 standard shipping).Last but not the least I did not find any good quality led strip lights on Amazon, cheap yes but not something that you can trust.

They are pretty bright, which is why I picked a strip advertising such high power draw. I haven't tested the current actually being pulled, but I think these LEDs are quite low efficiency compared to more expensive ones. I could be wrong on that though.My real concern is that the connecting wires are extremely thin gauge, and get really hot. I cut the strip about 70% of the way down, so the power going through the leads should be WELL within safe limits, but the wires still get hotter than is very comfortable to the touch. I'll be soldering thicker leads (that also come with barrel plugs) on at the base as soon as I get a chance. My opinion isn't conclusive, but I'm not very comfortable myself with the gauge of the wire.

Better than the clip piercing connectors by far.

Nice light output for the strip size. Color temperature is a very pleasing. Strip worked great for the light box I made to backlight some art. Good adhesion, easy to solder. Overall very happy with it

Highly recommend