BAL 22305 Cable Repair Kit Accuslide

This is a heavier cable than others sold on Amazon that “works with the BAL Accuslide system”. We had to replace the other cables 3 times due to breaking on our first trip out but we are not sure if it was because of the way the camper cable was set crooked by the manufacturer or if it was the thinner cable. We got the crooked cable placement issue fixed and so far no other issues with snapping cables.

This is the second one of these we've purchased because another cable system failed after a few years. We were happy with the installation. For the money, this is definitely something to keep hand when (not if) an older one fails.

After some research into slide out repair, I found this repair kit on Amazon. This kit worked perfectly to replace the damaged cable on our 2017 Raptor Toyhauler with the Norco BAL Accu-Slide Slide-Out System. This is an extremely common slide out system used on most modern RV's We would have waited months to get into the service department at our RV dealer, paid Hundreds for the repair and missed most of our camping season. I was able to do the repair with no previous knowledge within a few hours and most of that time was trying to figure out how to access everything without damaging anything. The next time if will take me less than an hour if it involves merely a cable replacement again. Watch a couple of You Tube videos and you will be able to do this repair easily. You will also need a crimping tool that you can purchase from Amazon. This is what I purchased: Loos Cableware 1-SC Multi-Compression Hand Swager. The tool is high quality and probably more expensive than needed for the job, but I did not want to have to rebuy a cheaper model if i broke it. I now carry this tool and an extra cable kit in the storage area of the RV so if the problem happens again to any of the 3 slides (24 Cables) in my RV I can repair it on site. If you have something out of alignment or broke on your slide you still may need to get to the dealer, but if you just have a damaged cable because of a routing issue then this should fix you up.

I ordered three of the kits although I only needed one. Everything was there including instructions. (No crimping tool or cutter tool though - about $100 worth of tools.) I watched the video on the BAL site and then used the instructions to complete the work. The kit comes with 'Chinese handcuffs' to use to connect the new cable to the old. I was working alone so I was not able to maintain tension on the outside as I pulled the old cable out/new cable in. The result was that the handcuff wanted to open up and get stuck in the pulleys - so you really need someone pulling against you to help pull the cables. I removed the cover plate so that I could see what was going on. I recommend this approach because it is easily accomplished and it allows you to view your progress to ascertain that everything is working right. It is not required however. After I got the loop connected, the crimp made and the cable cut off (to cut the cable I taped it with electricians tape and ground it off with a 4" grinder - the cutter was too expensive. If I had known how big to make it, I would have built a crimper out of two tool steel blocks and used bolts to draw it closed. I found a crimper for $45.) No suggestion was made about how big the loop should be so I tried to make it like the picture. This worked ok, except that as I tightened the bolt, the eye elongated and refused to tighten up. Don't forget to install the ferrule onto the cable before you put the cable through the eye bolt. I recommend making the eyelet loop as tight (small radius) as possible, but the distance away from the end of the loop not more than 2 inches. The kit did not include the part that forms the loop so it will elongate as the tension is increased. I cut the cable a little long about 4" past the ferrule so that if necessary I could put two more ferrules on there. They indicate that you should put the nut onto the bolt 1/2", but I would say to just give it a couple of threads and hand tighten the cable loop as tight as you can. Clamp it with a vice grips and disconnect the bolt so that you can disconnect the cable eye bolt from the holder in order to make crimping the ferrule easier (possible). The ferrule is crimped by placing it into the tool with the crease on its edge, ie, you can see the crease of the ferrule - it is not under the blades, but 90 degrees from them. With the cables and the ferrule held in position, crimp the ferrule dead center first and then on each end. The cable is 5/32" but the crimper had three sizes, none was 5/32" - only the 3/16" would fit the ferrule and it appears to have crimped it sufficiently. As I mentioned earlier, as I tightened the cable up with the adjustment, it appeared to not tighten. I had marked the crimp in a way that would tell me if it was slipping - it wasn't. So I just kept tightening, retrying, tightening, retrying until I was almost out of adjustment and the cable seems to be about the right tension compared to the other slides (about 1/2 to 1" of deflection when loose, not under tension). All in all, except for the damage to the cable in the first place, not a bad experience. Update 2/4/2012: The first time I tried to run the slide in and back out, the single ferrule slipped. How disappointing. I will have to cut off the slipped ferrule and replace it with 3 ferrules (I left enough material). I think that I will also install a horse collar in the loop so that there won't be so great a kink in the cable as it tightens. I think I will use a piece of material over the ferrule to cause the size to be 5/32" - not sure yet just how to do that, although I really think that three ferrules as discussed in the articles about making cable loops should do the trick and allow me to use the 3/16" crimper.

These met my expectations. After installing they worked fine.

good

One bedroom slide IN cable broke where it connects to the outside bracket. Replacement with this kit was straightforward. Connecting the broken and new cable with the Chinese-handcuff style webbing worked well, threaded through easily, using a bit of spray glue on the cable ends inside the webbing to improve grip. Getting access on the inside is much easier if you pry off the wood fascia at the top of the slide (attached with wire brads), but we had done this before, to replace a failed gear box. Reattach the wood trim with cabinet screws and it is much easier to remove/reattach next time. You will need to find or borrow a cable cutter and a swaging tool, perhaps from a sailing friend.

The only thing it does not have in it is more patience. I bought an extra so if I notice some broken strands, I can fix it before it breaks completely. That is why I needed more patience!

As much as it’s a pain to rethread the slide out if the cable was pulled out (I won’t mention names!) this product was exactly what I needed. It worked well and was applicable to my situation.

Perfect replacement. I watched the video about the installation and it was simple. Do what they say and it works. Be careful the video looks like a garage door opener at first but it not you are seeing things from the inside and gets confusing but watch to the end and you will understand the way it works

Excellent kit....Permits adjustment of cable length ..Many other kits of this type to not have adjustment to cable length ,, cables that are to long will cause friction resulting in failure of unit..

Easy repair of my slide out! Only concern is I have had to repair the same cable twice for some reason. The other three originals are just like new. I'm sure It was an alignment problem and no fault of the repair kit.

Très satisfaite et livraison dans les delais