CMVisionIR30 WideAngle IR Illuminator

I got one of these, and also had problems with very little illumination on some cams before I figured out what was going on.There are 3 types of infrared handling for CCTV cams - those with fixed IR filters, those without IR filters, and those with switchable filters (called IR cut filters). The last is on what's typically called a true day/night (or TDN) camera.B&W cams and many color cams don't have IR filters at all, especially inexpensive color cams with built-in IR illuminators (the Y-Cam Black/White/Knight are examples - see reviews on Amazon for the color issues). With these, you get good sensitivity to IR and good illumination from device like this, but colors can be off during the day, due to all the IR from sunlight. My Y-Cam shows the grass with a purplish hue when the sun is on it, and black clothes don't look black, but this device lights up the area like a spotlight for it.Color cams that aren't meant for night time or outdoor use often have a fixed IR filter. This makes the white light colors correct, but means it doesn't see IR very well, and this illuminator won't work for these. If you can see the LEDs lit up dull red but can't use it like a flashlight or spotlight for your camera, you probably have a fixed IR filter. One easy test is to point a remote control (these use IR) at your camera, push some buttons, and see how the LED lights up. Cameras with IR filters will show the LED lighting up as a dot, but those without filters will show bright glare and lots of beam.Cameras with IR cut filters (true day/night, or TDN) have an IR filter in place during the day, and move it out of the way at night. This gives the best of both worlds - true color in the daytime and good sensitivity at night - but it's a moving part, which is sometimes more likely to fail over time, especially on inexpensive cameras. Some TDN cameras have a photocell (like on this illuminator) to control when it switches between day and night, others use the video signal to figure out when to switch. The photocells tend to be more reliable and repeatable, but it depends on the camera design. If you cover a TDN camera with your hand, you should be able to hear a click as the filter retracts, then another one when you uncover it.I tried this illuminator first on an Arecont AV5100M IP camera, and it couldn't see any illumination from it, because it has a fixed IR filter. When I tried it with multiple TDN cams (several Vivoteks and an AV5105DN), it lights up the area very well.Finally, this does have a dull cherry glow, due to the 850 nM wavelength, which most cameras that don't have IR filters are sensitive to. The completely invisible IR LEDs are 950 nM, but most cameras are less sensitive to this wavelength, and it has less energy as well, so you need a lot more power to get the same illumination (plus it costs more for the same power).OK, on to the illuminator:Good:- Photocell to turn it off in the daytime- Standard CCTV power plug so you can run it from any spare 12V camera supplies you have around.- Compact, easy to mount.- Doesn't run too hot, feels slightly warm when it's been on overnight.- Mine has been reliable, running for a month now, with no burned out LEDs or switching problems.- Lots of light for the low price.Bad:- Not the sturdiest mount, but it's hard to complain for the price.All in all, it's quite a nice piece of gear for the price. If the LEDs start failing, that would be a bad point, and would show that you need to spend more money, but mine's been good so far. This has similar performance to illuminators that cost 4 times as much.

I purchased a couple to see how they'd work with my CIB, Z-Moto and First Alert cameras to mainly extend the lighting conditions farther than the camera's internal or burnt out IR's. One was placed 50' from the camera at a perpendicular angle to the camera's line of sight. It looks like a halogen floodlight is illuminating the yard now instead of just a dark area the camera used to capture. The other, I attached to the inside of the window pane to illuminate the front porch that a camera is facing but had burned out its internal IR. If you place the IR's housing edge flat against or seal it to the window, there won't be any bleed over into the camera's lens. Now I have a reasonable view of anybody approaching the porch.Since these two worked flawlessly so far (I can't speak on their longevity or weather-proofing yet), I ordered three more to use on the side and back of the house. Two are in line with the cameras aim they support and another (which supports two cameras) is perpendicular- each providing bright, adequate and farther illumination than any of my camera's internal IR's. Because they are wide angle, they don't wash out close subjects (10 - 12 feet) but sufficiently illuminate distant objects and the yard out to 30 feet or so (the advertized 50' might be a stretch, however). If you can position these beyond where your camera's internal illumination starts to fade, you should be able to effectively double your camera's nighttime vision.I have a couple wired with a wye directly to the DVR/camera's power line and the rest I am using spare 500mw power supplies I wasn't using that came with the CIB cameras- one direct and two connected via a wye.No. They don't come with a power supply or a wye... but that's fairly obvious from previous reviews (and who orders stuff without reading at least some of the reviews?). Another reviewer's tip on using your TV's remote to see if your camera sees it is a good indication that these will work with yours. They are a PITA to hang since you have to fasten the mount first- then thread the tiny screws through the mount and hood into the IR's housing to secure (probably up on a ladder, one handed or some other precarious position). If you have cameras with wide angle (3.6mm) lenses, these are the ones to get. If you try to use these with a normal 6mm (or longer) lens, the lens might be already looking beyond the IR's capability (as was the case with one of my CIB's). So, a narrower angle supplemental IR would probably be better in your situation- or do what I did... mount the IR light perpendicular 50' from the camera.I knocked off one star due to the difficulty in mounting. If they came with the power supply and wye, they would cost twice as much as Amazon carries them for (but surely not enough to the warrant some one or two-star reviews given by not including them).

I've seen people give this light a bad review, claiming it doesn't work with the Foscam 8910. It works just fine but... you have to know what you're doing.The Foscam has an IR cut filter that physically moves into place during the night time (you can hear a little click). To use this light, you *HAVE* to either turn on the built-in IR lighting manually, which moves the IR cut out of the way, or let the built-in mechanism take care of this (set IR to auto).The best way to achieve the latter is to cut a piece of cardboard to cover up the built-in LEDs but make sure that you do *not* cover the LED light level detector that switches from day to night mode located at the top of your 8910. Tape off the sides.I've tested this light indoors, where it easily lit up a 26ftx12ft family room. Then installed it outside and mounted my camera behind a window in an old shoebox taped to the window to avoid any interfering reflections from indoor lighting.Works peachy. Will adjust this review if light clunks out on me, but so far, 1 month, it's worked well. Do note that you need to buy your own power adapter (I got the one recommended by Amazon) and a power extension cable if you want to mount it a longer distance away from the plug (got a 25' extension cable).