1500W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 12V DC to 110V 120V AC with Remote Control LCD Display and 2x2.4A Dual USB Ports 3 AC Outlets Compatible with Lithium Battery for Home RV Truck by VOLTWORKS

I bought this inverter when I changed my system configuration to 24V. My old inverter was a 12V 1500Watt Pure Sine Wave and ran about 115V. It ran most things well, but couldn't handle my large ShopVac, and even with a minor load the fans on the inverter would cycle every couple minutes.This inverter runs everything I plug into it including a ShopVac and Refrigerator simultaneously. Its output is ~120V, the voltage drops little with heavy loads. Running 1,200 watts voltage does not go below 117V and averages around 118V.The fan rarely operates, in-fact it never cycles when the continuous load is less than 150W. So for me it will run my refrigerator and be absolutely silent. Had me worried at first that the fans might not work but the unit stays cool to the touch and the fans do work. Fan only runs when the unit hits 104F, so just keep the inverter in a nominal conditioned space of <80 degrees and you are good.My tests show it meets the claimed 90% efficiency and no load current of .9A (inverter on but no load). Power when turned off was in the milliamp range.I disliked the remote and lack of information on the pin-out as I use a relay to start the inverter. To turn on the inverter you either; push the button on the unit, button on remote, or use a relay to short pins 1+2 at the RJ9 port for ONE SECOND. Shorter duration will likely fail as the unit has to come up to the proper voltage for startup.I disliked the use of an RJ9 port, this is the narrow plug used on telephone handsets. Making it "unusual" to work with. And I had to buy some RJ9 crimp plugs for my bench stock.The information on the RJ9 port pin-4 is some kind of pulse coding, almost looks like garage door coding on my scope and the pulse duration and amplitude seems to follow the load. I am simply processing it as an analog signal (milli-volts) to determine if the inverter is on or off.The handheld remote provided does work, but having that wire is like being tied to a leash. Just seems like something you would have in the 80s. Hoping to get more information from the company.Other than those few issues, I rate this inverter as Excellent.1 Year Update:- Zero issues with this inverter for the past year. Not even an overload restart.- I use it 24/7, my daily peak is about 900Watts but on average I am drawing 280Watts from it 24/7.- Running from the inverter 24/7 are: 1 standard 17+cubic foot Refrigerator, 1 Air Cleaner, 2 PC Computers, 1 Base Station GMRS Radio, 1 Laptop, 2 End-Table Lamps and several USB charging stations.- Unit runs at 92% efficiency which is above the stated 90% efficiency. So for me if I draw 1000Watts of DC from the battery will run 920Watts of AC loads. This is great efficiency for any inverter.- The outlets are NOT GFCI (ground fault) protected. This is now a USA code issue for household inverter power, if you wish to have this feature I recommend you buy a GFCI with a pigtail plug. You plug that into the inverter and connect your loads to it.- GFCI or not make sure you ground the unit case solidly (quality connection). In addition (meaning you still need the case ground), you may want to connect the one of the inverter outlet grounds to a grid ground receptacle. DIY two male plugs and one wire, a 12AWG green wire. Just make sure both ends connect to ground or be ready for sparks and flames.- I stopped using the outlet signal from the RJ9 plug (pin 3/4) to determine on/off status of the inverter. Instead I use the 5Volt signal from the inverters USB port to determine status. (dah on me for not doing this first). And this USB method would likely work well with a small 5Volt relay.- Still using RJ9 port pin 1/2 to operate the inverter. Remember, needs to be shorted for 1 second to turn the unit on.- Picture 1 shows my rather custom and elaborate setup that may help some of you.- Picture 2 I included only for the DIY aspect of the lighted plug. Really some good benefits to using these lighted plugs... its lit so the inverter is on and electricity is at the plug.- I have an external box that my loads connect too. Inside the box I have a dual pole 16Amp supplemental circuit breaker and a contactor. The circuit breaker is as stated, supplemental. The contactor I use with a control system to transfer between inverter and grid.- This is a high frequency inverter so it is best for non-motor (non-inductive) loads, but clearly it handles my refrigerator and occasionally my shopvac without issue. However, if you plan on running something like a sump pump or AC at 1HP or more you may consider a higher rated inverter, or a similarly power rated Low Frequency Inverter. Low Frequency Inverters are bigger and cost more... But nothing beats getting the right stuff for the task you require of it.Bought a Second OneMy systems operates 24/7 as Off-Grid inverters do. Most of the components in my system were redundant. Multiple panels can be reconfigured, 2 charge controllers, 8 batteries etc. But the one single point of failure for me is the Inverter.So after running the first inverter for over a year with zero problems I bought a second one. Bagged up the first one and the second one has now been running flawlessly 24/7 for just over a month. The plugs were exactly the same, and it is performing exactly the same.My inspection of the unit that has been running for a year showed absolutely nothing of concern, and I was happy to see not much dust/dirt buildup on the fan or components. With electronics in general if they run for 90 days they tend to last a long time thereafter, often called a "burn-in" phase.Thinking this was another home run.... will do a third update if it proves untrue.

I've had this running 24/7 in my solar system for about 3 months now, in the window between 1/5 and 2/3 of rated load the entire time, usually around 1/3 to 1/2 being most common. It has worked great! Only thing I've noticed any real difference from utility power is with my Hakko soldering station which buzzes on this and not on utility for some reason (still works, but I'm leery of using it.) The output voltage sags more when connecting a switch mode power supply for my laptop than a normal utility circuit, but given the low wattage rating that's to be expected, and it's very brief. Sometimes that does reset my iLC/Hekee/ChangM/YangCSL (all have intercompatible remotes) LED light bulbs, but not a big issue.When i put it in service, I ditched the cigarette lighter plug, cutting the cord at the halfway point and adding an XT60 connector to it and to my power source (also added a mini blade car fuse, but not one of the untrustworthy no-name ones!). That is a MUCH better solution! Sadly, running my Ryobi hybrid soldering station on high for 10 minutes to make the joints caused the station to burn out:(... Probably just the heater, but due to a bad design that's not separately replaceable:(...We tried an antique radio known to be susceptible to power line noise. Even with an added inline filter there was significantly more noise than on utility power, though nowhere near as much as on a "modified" "sine" wave inverter! (that waveform, though in fact a waveform, is not merely a "modified" version of a sine wave, nor indeed anything like a sine wave at all, being nothing more than a square wave with an extended zero crossing twice per cycle. The term was probably invented by marketing somewhere.

The unit appears to be carefully designed and the fan runs quietly which could indicate that good quality parts were used.My TV uses 4.5 amps on the 12 volt side and at that power level the fan doesn't need to start so I'm running totally quiet and so far I'm very pleased with this unit.ps. Just a smaller reminder to the users who have to use the cigarette lighter plug in the car - you should not draw more than 10 amps out of it because it's not designed for large devices. 10 amps * 12 volts is 120 wAn alligator clamp set ( attached straight to the battery) -- to a female cigarette lighter plug, will offer you enough current to max out the unit.

Runs well running 2 lithium100 ah batterries. Defective unit was replaced pretty quickly. Support was excellent. Support was NOT from a foreign country. Recommended.Runs well. Quiet.

Produit de très bonne qualité et excellent service. J’ai même reçu la nouvelle version avec USB-C qui n’est pas encore sur l’image du produit. Il charge très rapidement mon iPad Pro, 10% en 3 minutes. Merveilleux!

Works well, easy to install. A great buy.

Inverter is really nice, works well so far, would like to see bigger studs on the 12V side, In my opinion the studs should be 3/8". It makes finding lugs easier.

Used for about 2 weeks, so cannot comment on longevity (but will update review later).User manual is thorough and accurate (which is rare!). I can confirm the listed DC voltage alarms and limits. The no load power draw for my unit was 0.8A. Waveform is clean on oscilloscope. Solid construction. Seller is helpful and responsive to questions. Overall, an excellent product!Some comments:- Internally, there are 4 x 30A automotive spade fuses to protect the DC side. I still added an external fuse on the positive battery terminal, but theoretically, you wouldn't need to.- The provided battery wires are probably fine for most cases, but a bit small gauge for my liking, so I created my own using 2/0 I had. Thankfully, the terminals on this inverter can accept very large barrel lugs. - The remote panel works well but design could be improved. First, it uses a RJ10 ended (4P4C) cable which is not very common (I needed a 50ft long cable and had to make it). The panel fits a 86mm x 86mm box which is also not common in North America. Finally, I wish it reported the voltage instead of 4 LED lights.