Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal

Let me start off by saying this was to make an XMAS present for the wife. To say the least I didn't leave myself enough time and had to rush things. But I bought this product specifically due to its claim that it handles 2-4" pours. As you can see by the image, this was a tricky pour. I was trying to encapsulate a 3-dimensional object, that to say the least had mass and buoyancy which made it tricky. It wasn't wasn't something I could really do in multiple pours very well because of it's shape. Technically I think I probably could have done it in two pours, but I didn't have time.So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult.I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on Amazon that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured.Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter.On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal.This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour.Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good.In summary, my lessons learned were:- this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy"- for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm- don't trust the "release agents"- when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold- Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom- polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work- the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect- finally, double and triple seal seams.

product cures super clear and gives you time to work with it before it does harden.

I've been experimenting with resin products for a few months and so far this is the best I've used. The 2 - 4 inch pour makes it so easy to finish even your deeper molds in one pour. We're building our social media presence and planning on featuring this product as our exclusive resin. We're considering trying the table top next!

Great epoxy company! This is a 2:1 ratio deep pour! Please remember to allow it at least 24hrs before it starts to harden.It doesn't have any strong odors and looks amazing once it has cured. I give my pours 72hrs to cure before I remove them from their mold.This epoxy is easy to pour and very strong! I didn't notice any heat build-up like ai did in an off brand epoxy I used. Best of all, no leaks!This is definitely worth the buy.

So our application of this product was perhaps a little unconventional but the results have been great. We own a historic field-stone house (1806) that had a kitchen/dinning room/solarium added on back in the late 70's. On the floor they utilized reclaimed brick for the floor. Everyone has always commented how they love the floor. We loved the look but when it came to cleaning the floor it became an impossible task that involved a power washer and shop vac. On top of the work of maintaining the floor it was rough and uneven so the simple task of sliding chairs in and out at the dining table was never simple. Our solution was to coat the floor with clear epoxy to level it and protect it while maintaining the look. We tested several other products all of which were unsuccessful for various reasons from being cloudy to setting to fast. This product self leveled, is crystal clear, and coated from a 1/16 of an inch to about 5/8" with no problem. No cracking, and the set time was about 2 days with a good hard cure in a week. Being so uneven the hardest part was figuring out how much we needed which resulted in multiple pours. The result is a floor that looks amazing and is a breeze to clean. I read several reviews about cracking or not curing and honestly I can only say the mix ratio had to be incorrect. Having used over 42 gallons of this product I will say there is nothing clearer, and nothing easier, with absolutely amazing results. Our floor looks like glass. You can see every detail of the old brick and instead of crumbling apart it's beautifully preserved.

Hardener turned yellow in the container even though it was in the garage with no light. Not sure what happened, but i cant use it now because of the yellowing.

After 3 years of research and a little help, the first (and likely only) epoxy project is being worked on. Highly recommend as this is a fantastic product that is easy to work with follow the directions and you shouldn’t have an issue.