KT-G3-A USA 4G GSM AUTO Relay Switch 12V Solenoid Remote Control Box Wireless Gate Opener 2CH Output HOG Trap Aircraft Pre-Heater System 30A Relay Contact(for AT&T and T-Mobile Volte 2022 New)

Just wanna say this thing works very good. The only issue I had was using the sim.card someone else mentioned. Speed talk , complete junk. Using this for a remote hog trap speed talk would usually say all lines are busy over and over. Calls wouldn't go through. I'm in a rural area where Verizon and att gets through 99 percent of the time but speed talk was a joke. Went and got a 10 dollar att sim card and activated on a prepaid 30 dollar a month plan. It cost more but it works. No more 10 min to boot after plug in.Also u need to plug this into your computer with the cable and open the program that comes on the thumb drive. Once you connect it you can see the EMIN number plain as day. This is how you set this up. It's very easy to do and using the att sim card was worth the extra money to have something reliable.

I purchased this unit in April 2021. I used an H2O pay as you go sim card (it uses the AT&T network). It worked well. In March 2022 I purchased another KT-G3-A. I purchased a new H2O pay as you go sim card. I can not get this unit to work with the New AT&T 4G network. Now neither KT-G3-A auto relay switch works. Looking at the reviews after Feb 2022 I can not find a single review where the switch works. Does this switch work???? If it does please provide support so we can get it working.If you are reading the reviews of this product that occurred prior to March of 2022 they are meaningless since AT&T have changed their network to the new 4G. Also, in an article on their web page the seller told us that the test they conducted in Texas was unsuccessful.

When i purchased this device i had no clue what am i doing, device is simple yet my lift master 3000 UL board was overwhelming, i could not figure out how to connect it. I sent couple emails to George he tried to help me to set it up, however different openers have different wire diagrams. I could not figure out how to wire it in LiftMaster i gave up, I ordered Ascent K2 from Security Brands and with installation cost me $3,800.00 yet they brought a defective device. I went back and check where did they connect the defective device and connected this product KT-G3 and it works like a champ, it saved my life. I have attached wiring picture diagram with LiftMaster 3000 UL. Great product, great support, great price.

I have set up the unit for a hog trap and I have downloaded the app and tried to program the unit by text through the app and the text will not go through. Is there anyone I can talk to to figure this out?

Not sure I’ve ever written a review on here, but was impressed with the money I saved and felt I needed to share. Just so you know, it’s not a plug and play device. It does take a little work, but a great value. I use this device for turning my sump oil heater on my airplane (RV-7A) on and off remotely. I have a 2G unit that will be defunct and needed to upgrade. That vendor (Sw_tchb_xc_ntr_l) has a 4G unit. I just didn’t want to pay what they were asking. The 4G unit the competitive vendor supplies is extremely similar, but came with the outlet tails and sim card activated and installed. Basically, completely setup when it’s at your door. If you have one of those units, they function completely fine. If you want to save $250, this is a great option with a little work. One note-this is a -A unit, AT&T and T-Mobile. The -V (if you can find one) is Verizon. I would buy this box again in a heartbeat. Here’s what you need to know:You will need to supply your own micro sim card. The new cards are nano, but they have adapters with them for micro. I got T-Mobile. You need to have a phone to activate the card as there is no real way to receive the text they send to the relay. I went to the T-mobile store and the sales guy put it in his phone to activate it. $10 for the card and I put $10 on the pay-as-you-go card.You will need to supply your own power inlet/outlet pigtails. I used the pigtails from my 2G unit. They had LEDs to show if they had power. I did like that. But, if you’re handy, not a big deal. I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. PLEASE COMPLETE PER YOUR REQUIRED ELECTRICAL CODE. With that said, here's what I did. Commoned the ground wires into a bundle, insulated; commoned the neutrals into a bundle, insulated; and then put the hot 120V to the com on the first relay with a jumper to the second relay, and then connected the hot for the outlets (female) to the normally open spots.Now the quirks:You need the 12V transformer to operate the relays/cell network gadgets and the 120V input to run your load. The competitive box uses an on-board transformer so one power plug does it all. So, you need two plug ins. Easy with a power strip, but still, it’s two power sources.The transformer that came with mine was a straight in type. A 90° would be better. I doubled the wire over at the plug on the board and basically zip tied it back to itself (the plug) to limit the loop on top of the plug’s height. Left alone, I was afraid it would stress the connection on the board. I’d rather fail/replace the transformer. Maybe I shouldn’t care and it would be fine. AND there is no way for the cord to get out of the box if you use the 3 stress reliefs at the bottom of the box for power and 2 outlets. So, Dremeled a notch in the side of the box. Tied a knot (yes, people are probably cringing at that comment) to be the stress relief.Almost completely ditto for the external antenna. If you can get by with the internal antenna, use it. The hangar has horrible cell reception (metal box) and needs the external antenna.Not sure you need the computer to setup the box or not. I just want a simple on/off with text and confirmation. As I said above, it’s a little work, but I’d buy it again.

I purchased the auto relay a week or so ago, and have been unable to get support for the linking functionality. The manual is fairly straight forward, and I was able to find the command needed to set the unit into "auto" mode, wherein it links the second relay to the first. Problem is that it still doesn't for me. Not sure whether there is a software or hardware issue (or user error), and have been unable to find a working email address to request support. Hoping to get some support with this review. I will gladly update my review, if someone contacts me to resolve the issue.

Whatever changed with the AT&T (tmobile) Network around the Mid Atlantic region has resolved itself. I am going on week three now with absolutely ZERO issues with this device, works 100% of the time now.I am on my third try here.... unit will fire right up and work (reject the call and trip the relays). After between 2 and 3 hours of being connected, it stops working. Only way to make it begin answering (rejecting) calls is to take away the power and restart it. Same gig, works...... then you'll start getting a "call cannot be completed as dialed" or just simply nothing at all happens, the call is just ended without even ringing. So..... over $450 dollars later in purchases and returns..... huge waste of time and resources. This product is now falsely advertised as it does NOT work on T-Mobile or AT&T.