Power AcoustikNB-4 250-Watt 4-Way Mount Tweeter

These are basically the poor man's high performance tweeters. They are designed with very high efficiency/sensitivity so that a professional installer can match it to any number of systems with varying SPLs. But the noobs are going to complain that it's too harsh, or too loud or sounds like tin, etc. If these tweeters are kept at three-quarter to half-power, depending on the system, they play beautifully.But they need an additional series capacitor and possibly a series resistor for SPL matching to embarrass your rich audiophile friends. These tweeters just need an external metalized film capacitor of 1uF (microfarad), 1.5uF or 2uF depending on listening preferences. The 1uf will give it a smoother response. Do not not use electrolytic caps to avoid distortion (sound coloration). These tweeters may be too loud to match the low sensitivity of certain speaker systems, so they may need to be attenuated with a 10Watt non-inductive(for audio) 2-ohm resistor or a 4-ohm, maybe higher. Or buy a set of 2-ohm resistors and keep adding them in series to the tweeter until you get the desired decibel levels.But hey, there's no such thing as a free lunch. Some people want everything served on a platter, so they should go and spend $50 to $300 on a pair of preconfigured-to-someone-else's-preference tweeters, instead. But if you buy tweeters that cost a little over thirteen dollars, be prepared to put some creative work into them.Some people's ears cannot adjust to high levels of treble, especially mid-highs (roughly 5Khz to 10KHz), and they don't hear intricate details at high decibels, they hear very harsh tones instead. The solution is putting a disk shaped 3M double-sided foam tape (the gray colored one used for outdoors to adhere moldings to cars; found in hardware stores and automotive paint supplies) on the center of the tweeter. Only foam will prevent coloration. Simply cut the tape into various diameters and try each one out. The larger the disk diameter covering the center of the tweeter, the more mid frequencies it will cut. It will also reduce axial anomalies that produce harmonic distortion and attenuate the tweeter's SPL if the disk is large enough. And as for the other side of the double sided tape, adhere a plastic disk made from a semi-soft plastic like ABS (do not use metal) to cover the adhesive.I should mention that I did use an oscilloscope listening in to the tweeters with a calibrated microphone and sine waves picked up are nice and clean with the peaks very close to 90-degrees and without ghosting. (The closer the output resembles a sinewave, the less distortion a tweeter (or speaker) produces.)I laugh as my buddies have spent thousands on their systems. Mine sounds many times better, cleaner, with a truly flat natural sounding response, has midbass and midrange so tight people look to the sides to see what hit them, and the mid-highs and highs are so crisp they pop out like Chinese firecrackers. And yet, it's made out of cheap generic crap components and my friends hate me for it (and now want my advice--figures).But a tweeter won't solve all problems. You gotta have a midbass and midrange to truly have a professional sounding system. If you spend $150 on a pair of 6.5 inch speakers, you're doing it wrong. Buy some $10 midrange (with a matching crossover) and an $25 aluminun cone speaker for midbass (Dayton makes them). Learn concepts about crossovers networks and how their outputs in phase on diy sites, add some good subs and you'll have a system that plays anything without setting your wallet on fire. Yes, crossovers are vital, but used improperly they can throw speakers out of phase which produces ghosting and unbelievable distortion. This is key the area that most people ignore, and it's what actually either makes the high end system for less or breaks it. Some will tell you it's negligible, but an oscilloscope doesn't lie when it shows ghosting effect. Think of sound as a fluid moving in a current, not as air. Regarding phase angles, all fluid currents must flow at the same time (in phase) or they will compete/collide with each other, adding unwanted effects and force cancellations. Also, find a way to install a mono center speaker on the center console of you car or dash. And for God's sakes, unless you're powering subwoofers, use a Class-B amp with discrete components and an internal feedback. Quit pissing around with those "pretty" looking amps and always question how they are made internally. Don't use an EQ to boost treble, it causes harmonic distortion and noise. Add additional tweeters (or midranges/mid-tweeters) and an L-pad to control their decibel boost levels to match your taste. Buy a $50 Behringer ECM8000 mic with an XLR to USB adapter and hook it to your laptop and download a free copy of RealRTA to see what sounds/tones your system is missing.BTW, you can't have clean midrange and midbass from one driver. It will always exceed the Xmax of the driver, adding all kinds of filthy distortion. Stop it, just stop it, you unclean, air pumping, noise making noob. No, not you. You know better than that.Good luck, people. Hope this helps.

This is a fantastic product. Works flawlessly and sounds clear. Gives off the right amount of sound and made my audio a lot louder. I usually run my radio at 40 out of 60 and now I'm able to run it at 30 and it be just as loud. Gives me a lot of volume left for if I'm down a dirt road with some friends on the weekend. Can open my doors and let them sing. Perfect for anyone looking for good quality tweeters that have a lot of output

you can spend more but why? I replaced all the speakers in my 2019 Mustang except the stock tweeters, added an 800W amp and a sub in the trunk. Sound was missing something...that something was better tweeters than stock. Needed a pair that could handle the amp's peak RMS output and these are perfect. Suddenly the highs are as solid as the bass. I had installed these in my Pathfinder as well with a 600W amp....still going strong there as well.

I installed these in the front doors of my 2004 Ford f-150. I had to make the factory tweeter hole just a little larger in order for these to fit but that was fairly easy as these come with a screw on mounting bracket that I was able to attach from behind the door panel to hold them in place. I am running these off of my Kenwood head unit that is rated at 22 watts rms per channel and it pushes them adequately, I also have four Polk Audio db571s in the truck running off of Punch 400.4 and since installing these tweeters I had to turn the gain up on my amp to get the 5x7 to level off with the sound of these tweeters. I wouldn't say these are "voice" tweeters but they do add some clear high end to my stereo, picking up drum cymbals, guitar notes, and adding a little voice. The Polk Audio 5x7s sounded great before adding these and these were not necessarily needed, I just wanted to fill that little empty hole in my door cause it was there and these did the trick. I assume that if these tweeters were ran closer to their recommended rms of 100 watts each(although they may burst into flames due to the thin wire they come with) that they would produce more voice and have a fuller sound, but I am fine with my head unit pushing them since my Polk 5x7 take care of all my other midbass and high frequencies, as well as two Fosgate P3 Shallow mounts for my low frequencies. For around twelve bucks with free shipping, I can't complain and would probably buy these again.

This is the third time I've purchased these tweeters. This time in a high powered car audio setup, (over 2,500 watts peak). These tweeters are not your run of the mill one size fits all expensive car audio solution like you commonly see at walmart or best buy. These are big boy tweeters. Unless the rest of your speakers are big boy speakers then these guys are going to sound too harsh and loud and you are going to probably need to attenuate them with either a 4 ohm l-pad attenuator, an audio resistor in series, or each placed on their own channel and attenuated with an amp - pre amp gain. No matter how you attenuate them, these tweeters are going to play all the highs, the ear piercing ones included. This is at a sacrifice of making you literally feel like your listening to Johnny Cash live, or really there at that Armin Van Buuren show.The only con I can draw with this product is that the mounts included seem to have wide manufacturing thresholds. The tweeters have a screw groove around their edge and screw into their mounts. I've had at least one tweeter where the tweeter didn't quiet screw right in its mount and it had to be babysat once a week and screwed back into its mount. This con, of which would knock a star off it's review if it were any other tweeter, doesn't here because the tweeters are that good.

Packaging is on point overall easy to install and dont look horrible. However I mounted mine where the map lights used to be and although they fit perfectly I got horrible static that was right in my ear. Idk if the bose amp/stock head unit, but what I can say for sure is the pioneer tweeters look a little nicer are 3 times heavier and sound cleaner. But you get what u pay for

The one guy was right noobs don't understand what spl highs are and they are not harsh like some people says these are amazing for the price I was expecting it to be crap for the price but dam good highs I put then in the back of my car case I have highs in front of car but wanted some rear highs now everything sounds so clear

I use in my Logitech z906 home theatre

exelente cumplen su funcion suenan muy bien fuerte y claro justo lo que queria y a exelente precio

Good quality, sharp sound and fast delivery ! Thank you

Están algo feos pero suenan muy bien. Ya cuando los escuchas se te olvida que no son tan estéticos. Definen muy bien las frecuencias altas y el precio es lo mejor. He comprado marcas premium y no hay mucha diferencia en el sonido. Din embargo rl precio es de una tercera parte.